Kinda OT: How do I attach safety chains to a trailer?

[belfert]

The trailer I am rebuilding for use behind my bus is done except for attaching the new safety chains.

The old chains were welded to the bottom of the tongue, but the old chains were in bad shape so I cut them off.  My original plan was to use a quick link to attach to the last link still welded to the trailer.  This won't work as the quick link won't go through.

Any ideas for how I attach the safety chains to the tongue?  My friend says to just wrap one chain around each of the two beams of the tongue and use two quick links with some additional chain.  I am a bit concerned that this would wear on the cable for the lights.  It certainly wouldn't help the paint any.

[JackConrad]

If you want to connect to the existing links, you might try a "cold link" or a "repair link".  They should fit through the existing links. I would first check the links for rated strength.  Jack

[kyle4501]

As Jack said, make sure the quick link you use has the proper strength rating.
How strong do the chains need to be? - Many states require the chains to be rated in excess of the loaded trailer weight.

Also, cross the chains so they cradle the tongue if the connection fails, AND the crossing action minimizes the chances of the chains going tight in a turn.

[bevans6]

I weld loops of typically 1/2" mild steel rod and loop one link of the chain through the loop.  Quick links that I have seen are not rated, I think you need to use transport rated fairly heavy chain and fixtures.  If your trailer is lighter, you can obviously use lighter chain.  It;s good to use hooks that have snap closures.

Brian

[belfert]

Yes, the quick link I am using has over a 3,000 lb working load rating.  The breaking load is far higher.  I figure two chains should be enough for a trailer with a 7,000 lb GVW.  I bought the replacement chains at a trailer shop.

I always cross my trailer chains, even on inexpensive trailers where both chains are attached on the same side of the tongue and crossing doesn't make much sense.

[belfert]

If you want to connect to the existing links, you might try a "cold link" or a "repair link".  They should fit through the existing links. I would first check the links for rated strength.  Jack

Unfortunately, even a 1/2" version of these is only rated at 2125 lbs.

[4905 doc]

Yes, the quick link I am using has over a 3,000 lb working load rating.  The breaking load is far higher.  I figure two chains should be enough for a trailer with a 7,000 lb GVW.  I bought the replacement chains at a trailer shop.

I always cross my trailer chains, even on inexpensive trailers where both chains are attached on the same side of the tongue and crossing doesn't make much sense.

crossing trailer chains saved my bacon once. while pulling a camper trailer, someone stole the clevis pin from my reciever hitch. A few miles down the road, the reciever and ball pulled loose. trailer tongue dropped onto the crossed chains and prevented it from digging into the ground and possibly flipping.

[cody]

Instead of chains we use safety cables, they are precoiled so they don't drag, they've got a reinforced loop on the end that secures to the trailer tongue.  Much less cumbersome than chains and plastic coated so they don't scratch the rust off my iggle.

[rv_safetyman]

Brian, hopefully the trailer shop gave you grade 70 chain.  That is the DOT approved chain.  It is gold in color. 

I think it is OK to drill in the center of the tongue arms and literally bolt the chain to the frame with grade 8 bolts.  I say the center, since that is the neutral axis of the arm.

Cody, I am quite Leary of cables.  They are rated at their tensile strength and they don't have any margin when used for large trailers/toads.  That whole issue is what got me started on my research for my article on safety equipment for towing (March 2010) issue.

There is a lot of terrible hardware out there that folks use to make connections.  Brian, looks like you have been very careful to avoid the terrible stuff. 

Jim

[buswarrior]

Safety chains and all the hardware must be of known rating, and add up to the numbers for the trailer.

There are precious few installs out there that don't have a weak link in the hardware, including many/most set-ups from "manufacturers"

Those "C" shaped quick links are the devil, the best I've ever seen were only rated at 1500lbs, most have no rating and I wouldn't count on them for half that.

Proudly spend the money, heck, overspend the money, necessary for proper, rated chain hardware, every piece of it, equal to, or better yet, beyond the potential rating/load for the trailer, and watch your choice of "washers" if using grade 8 bolts instead of welding at the trailer end. I've seen the good chain pull right through the weak washers. A square of scrap steel drilled for the purpose will withstand far more forces.

You'll never regret spending all that money when it hangs together after a hitch failure.

I am also fond of using locking hardware for the hitch and trailer connections for just the same reason: tampering.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[belfert]

Quick links can be rated up over 10,000 lbs in stainless, but they aren't cheap in that size.  The 1/2" quick links I bought are not stainless and are rated just over 3,000 lbs working strength.  Breaking load is a lot higher.

I think what I am going to do is buy some safety cables and weld some 1/2" roud bar bent in a loop to the trailer like Brian Evans suggested.  My big issue is where to the trailer safety cables in stock locally.

[luvrbus]

Brian, they make a special loop that is welded to the bottom of the channel and most use 5/16 chain rated up to 10,000 lbs cross the chains like Kyle said it will hold up the tongue and keep it from digging in to the pavement.
You can twist a chain to make a adjustment for length ,cables I would not have if one does drag they fray and then you have to contend with it and they hurt when you get stuck by one and plus you can always buy a missing link for chain that will not happen on a cable as they say do it your way


good luck

[belfert]

It appears there are pluses and minuses to both cables and chains.  I'll stick with the chains I already bought.

[kyle4501]

I have used the cables that were of the self storing style (coiled). They were aggravating - mainly because they were snug to the bottom. When crossed, they would pinch the electrical connector & pull it loose & one time they pulled the pin on the brake away brake system.

The chains hang down & don't cause as many problems.

But if you have cables & they work for you, then there is no need to change.

[belfert]

I have safety chains I bought, but I was thinking about exchanging them for cables.  I think I will just stick with the chains after reading the comments here.