Intalling the engine on a 4106; Warning! *Lots of Pictures*

[OneLapper]

The time is near!  The new engine is ready to go back into my 4106.  Next weekend is the goal to get the engine back in the bus.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed, hoping that I'll have time to get the engine started.

Lot's has been done since the last time I posted;  Here's an update....

Firstly, Divine Rights Trip used a tap to chase all the threads in the engine block, as well as the transmission, removing all the Hi-Tact, etc.  Then we were able to look for damaged threads.  The engine had none, but the tranny was a mess! More on that later...

A picture of the flywheel side of the engine. Note: you can see the number 7 and 8 cylinder liners..



Look at those new pistons and liners! A thing of beauty, look at that cross hatching!



Here's a slight difference of the new replacement block vs. the original 1964 block; this boss is not on the old block, so the engine back plate interfered with it.  I needed to trim that section to get the right fit...



N65 injectors require advanced cam timing, you can see the "L" and "A" are aligned...



Timing gears are installed..



Flywheel cover re-installed..



Flywheel is going on..



The transmission needed some help; 9 Heli Coils to repair the PO's mega over-torquing every bolt on it, replaced the Throwout Bearing carrier because the 90 degree fitting for the greasing hose had stripped out the threads so the grease didn't get to the carrier, replaced the top cover to fix numerous oil leaks.



Jake's and new injectors installed, adjusted and ready to go...



Paint is 95% complete, engine is 90% complete



I'll post a video of the engine going back in!

[bevans6]

Rockin!  I love the "paint it green, paint it ALL green..."  Did you install the kits yourself, or was this a rebuilt when you got it, I forget...

Brian

[OneLapper]

Rockin!  I love the "paint it green, paint it ALL green..."  Did you install the kits yourself, or was this a rebuilt when you got it, I forget...

Brian

No, the engine came from the NYC transit authority garage.  It was rebuilt just before the fleet was sold and recycled by NIMCO Bus in NJ.  The engine as less miles than I thought, though.  The shop that installed the injectors said the wax pencil marks were still on the rocker arms, con-rods, etc.  He thought the marks would have diminished after a several thousand miles.  One of the rockers still had a "chunk" of yellow wax from the pencil!

[HB of CJ]

Great pictures and a hearty thank you.  Now some silly questions.  Did you ever consider at any time putting in an 8V92N 400hp?  Just wondering.  Also, did you drink lots of iced tea and make silly DD 2-stroke stroke idling and reving sounds, complete with Jake Brake noises?  And...are you going to install Jakes?  Thanks again.  HB of CJ (old coot)

[OneLapper]

Great pictures and a hearty thank you.  Now some silly questions.  Did you ever consider at any time putting in an 8V92N 400hp?  Just wondering.  Also, did you drink lots of iced tea and make silly DD 2-stroke stroke idling and reving sounds, complete with Jake Brake noises?  And...are you going to install Jakes?  Thanks again.  HB of CJ (old coot)

HB of CJ,

I took a good long hard look at DRT's 8V92T which is sitting a few feet from my engine!!  That would be a big project, but I'd say it's totally do-able.  The blocks look nearly identical but I don't think there's a way to use the Spicer and I'm not ready to go to an automatic.  But, with 400 hp and a 4 speed auto, the performance would be pretty good, better than what I'll have when I'm done installing this engine.

Yes, the Jakes are installed, adjusted, and tested.  I need to run the wiring and install the switches, though. I need to get the block off plates for the tall valve covers, then I need to modify the rear engine door to clear the bottom valve cover.  Still lots to do!

[HighTechRedneck]

Looking great!

[JohnEd]

What did you use toclean the block so the paint would stick?

Great job and post.

Thank you,

John

[Chopper Scott]

Looks like you are progressing quite well. Great pics. Is that your lemonade stand?

[OneLapper]

What did you use toclean the block so the paint would stick?

Great job and post.

Thank you,

John

John,

I used 12 cans of brake cleaner!  And a brush, and a bag full of rags.  It took a while to clean it up, but it paid off.  I found three active oil leaks: the rubber boot between the blower and back plate was age hardened so it leaked oil.  That was really the only "big" oil leak, which really wasn't a big leak, but the only way to replace the rubber boot is to either remove the blower or remove the flywheel cover, flywheel, generator, air compressor, etc.  Major work to fix a leak, but I ordered a new boot and did it right.  The other two leaks were loose plugs in the block.  Literally loose, as in someone forgot to tighten them up after threading them most of the way in.

The paint went on nicely, covered well.  I put on two coats, three on the major visible components.

[OneLapper]

Looks like you are progressing quite well. Great pics. Is that your lemonade stand?

Haha!  No, not  my lemonade stand, but you wouldn't believe the stuff in this place.  There's a V12 Jaguar convertible with 34k miles on it in one corner, and a 32 Chevrolet in another.  Behind the garage is a Volvo Bertone with 45k on it.  And beside the garage is a home built 40 foot boat with a Volvo Penta engine with less than 5 hours on it!

The progress has been slow between waiting for parts, working late, and spending every minute I can with my daughters.  They "help" out as much as they can, but we paint wheels, etc. instead of getting greasy!  It all needs to get done, though!

I hope I can get the engine installed this weekend.  I have a days worth of misc stuff to do to the engine and then it should be ready to go back in.

[JohnEd]

Mark,

Great info....all of it.  Thank you for sharing it and giving us voyeurs a fight'en chance.

My bud with the welding shop keeps tons of that brake cleaner in his shop.  He paints everything he welds together and the oil that is on steel is crummy black.  Wiping it down is difficult.  I tell the young guys that work for me occasionally that "the rinse is the most important part".  It is hard to get enough brake cleaner flowing across a piece of greasy metal to carry all the grease away.  My favorite cleaner of all time is Easy Off oven cleaner.  The bad version with all the warnings on it.  Spray it on and scrub it around with a paint brush and hose it off.  The lye converts the oil to a soap-like substance that rinses away easily with water.  The Rinse!  Being an aerosol and in a can and formulated to "stick" to vert surfaces, it convenient.   I have mixed up lye water but it is too thin but will do the exact same great job where it gets applied.  I worked with bluing rifles and the lye dip was an integral step and so was the rinse.  The slightest hint of oil or grease and the bluing fails in a most unsightly way....lye works.  Another trick of mine is to mix the stuff like Brake Cleaner or alcohol or gasoline or solvent or whatever with ORDINARY DISH SOAP.  Scrub t in well and the solvent dissolves the oil and lets the oil be emulsed in the soap.  Then the water hose works just fine.  Either of these methods works well and is cheaper and faster than a solvent alone.  Of course, if you can't spray water around you have no choice.  You had that block so clean I thought you must have used lye.  Good work and it must have been a bear.

I have talked to many people that had not a single leak in their DD 8V92.  Perfectly dry.  It obviously can be done. Hard to believe that block plugs wouldn't get tightened.....unless I did the job.

I envy you the experience with your kids and the satisfaction you are getting from the project.  Keep the pics coming, please.

Thanks,

John

[HighTechRedneck]

John, a word of caution about mixing chlorinated (Tetrachloroethylene) brake cleaner (i.e. Brake Kleen) with welding (reportedly especially with MIG or TIG welding, but there are concerns with any type):

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

http://www.bt.cdc.gov/agent/phosgene/basics/facts.asp

•Phosgene can be formed when chlorinated hydrocarbon compounds are exposed to high temperatures. Chlorinated hydrocarbon compounds are substances sometimes used or created in industry that contain the elements chlorine, hydrogen, and carbon.
•The vapors of chlorinated solvents exposed to high temperatures have been known to produce phosgene. Chlorinated solvents are chlorine-containing chemicals that are typically used in industrial processes to dissolve or clean other materials, such as in paint stripping, metal cleaning, and dry cleaning.

[RJ]

Mark -

Nice work, you're going to be amazed at your sports car when you get it all back together!

Some of the mega-buck conversion owners are gonna be "annoyed" when you blow by them pulling the hills!

How come you pulled the pic of DRT helping with the project?   

Can't wait for the video!

FWIW & HTH. . .

[JohnEd]

Mike,

I didn't know that.  Thanks!  It might make "common sense" to flood a tank with the stuff's fumes before welding and that could cost a life.  Phosgene is HORRIBLE stuff and not a member of any food group.

All should appreciate your caution,

John

John, a word of caution about mixing chlorinated (Tetrachloroethylene) brake cleaner (i.e. Brake Kleen) with welding (reportedly especially with MIG or TIG welding, but there are concerns with any type):

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

http://www.bt.cdc.gov/agent/phosgene/basics/facts.asp

•Phosgene can be formed when chlorinated hydrocarbon compounds are exposed to high temperatures. Chlorinated hydrocarbon compounds are substances sometimes used or created in industry that contain the elements chlorine, hydrogen, and carbon.
•The vapors of chlorinated solvents exposed to high temperatures have been known to produce phosgene. Chlorinated solvents are chlorine-containing chemicals that are typically used in industrial processes to dissolve or clean other materials, such as in paint stripping, metal cleaning, and dry cleaning.