Pro's and Con's of an MCI 8?

[Highway Yacht]

I've been looking at other buses since bus prices are down. I've come across a 1976 MCI 8 with an older conversion that would need updating but I'm mainly concerned about the bus itself. What are some of the Pro's and Con's of an MCI 8? I haven't driven the bus yet but they say the bus runs and shifts smooth with no smoke. He said it had a 8V92 and 4 Speed automatic. I plan on test driving and taking a good look at the bus before even considering making an offer or having it checked out and inspected by a real bus mechanic. Any tips or ideas on inspecting an MCI 8 to see if it is even worth taking in for a real inspection? What are some of the things to look for?

[Tom Y]

Rust, Around spare. Look for a straight sides, no bulges or loose rivets. Around air beams.

Is he sure a 8v92? Or an 8v71?  I like the looks of the 8.  Goodluck.   Tom Y

[Melbo]

With an 8 and an 8V92 you could have cooling issues --- something to check

Melbo

[robertglines1]

I like them ;was the main stay of the industry for many years;;parts readily available.If it is a 8V92 should be a hot rod...ride and drive and find a hill and watch temp guage..ck tires for year of mfg. not looks so much(big expense) then ask does it make me smile..

[Highway Yacht]

Rust, Around spare. Look for a straight sides, no bulges or loose rivets. Around air beams.

Is he sure a 8v92? Or an 8v71?  I like the looks of the 8.  Goodluck.   Tom Y

He says his mechanic said it was an 8V92 because I did question him on it thinking it is probably an 8V71. I'm not very familiar with MCI 8's so could you tell me where the spare is located and the air beams so I'll know exactly where to look? I have an RTS now so never had any issues with rust since so much of it is stainless steel.

[Highway Yacht]

I like them ;was the main stay of the industry for many years;;parts readily available.If it is a 8V92 should be a hot rod...ride and drive and find a hill and watch temp guage..ck tires for year of mfg. not looks so much(big expense) then ask does it make me smile..

Exactly where on the tire is the mfg date and is it in code?

[Highway Yacht]

Just did a google search and found this at ehow...Seems simple enough.

Step 1 Locate the DOT numbers on the sidewall of the tire. These numbers always start with the letters DOT, which stand for Department of Transportation.

Step 2 Check both sides of the tire. You will notice that one number has four extra digits to it on the end.

Step 3 Determine which side of the tire has the longer DOT number and read the last four digits of that number. That is the tire stamp date.

Step 4 Decipher the tire stamp date using this easy formula: 0108 would indicate that the tire was manufactured in the first week of the year 2008; 1208 would indicate the tire was manufactured in the 12th week of the year 2008. This formula applies in a two-digit format to start the number of the week it was made, starting with 01 and ending with 52. The last two digits of the number indicate in which year the tire was manufactured, starting with 00 for the year 2000. There's a slightly different format for tires manufactured prior to the year 2000, but since those would be over nine years old, it's a pretty safe bet to assume they're beyond their expiration date. It might not hurt to find out if the tire you're looking at has a manufacturer's expiration date, if applicable, and determine whether that would expire before the tread wear of the tire being used on your vehicle would.

[bevans6]

If it's a typical 8V92 it will have a turbo, although there are "natural" versions.  the engine type number is below the exhaust manifolds on the drivers side of the block.  the thing about the MC-8's is they were made with more mild steel framing behind the stainless steel exterior, so rust is more of an issue.  the slightly later buses seemed to have more stainless steel framing, at least my 1980 does.  It's not that big a difference, but if there's rust, it's there and needs to be fixed.  The plus side is it's a solid, known platform, parts  are available, and it's a good looking beast.

I have a bee in my bonnet lately about bus prices.  I have this idea in my head that a bus with decent chassis, no rust issues, a good runner engine and transmission, and decent running gear is worth around $30K.   I think you can buy one for that money, or buy a cheap shell and spend that money or more getting it to that point.  Bottom line a decent running bus is worth that.  A decent conversion, depending on your taste, is extra - starting at $10K and going up from there.  the $10K buys you a decent head, and kitchen, and a reasonable lounge and bedroom.  Few frills, and not a lot of granite...  So I figure a converted bus in good mechanical shape is worth or will cost $40K.  Pay me now or pay me later.  The trick is not spending the top dollar and buying a pig in a poke...

Brian

[belfert]

A major con on any bus the age of an MC8 is that it is likely to no longer be viable as a commercial vehicle.  If it is still a passenger bus it is probably in the hands of bus company that may not have the best mechanics.  It could well be that it won't pass a DOT inspection without major investment.

[Tom Y]

If it is a 8v92, do run some hills to see if the rad can keep up. The spare is behind the front bumper. My MCI had rust there. The air beam tie in with the air bags, above them. Look for block off plates there between the beam and bag. A sign the air beams rotted through.  Tom Y 

[TomC]

Two big minuses-one is age, and two that it is just a 96" wide bus.  I have a 102" wide and that extra 6" is quite noticable.  If I were buying a bus, it would be the MCI 102C3.  Good Luck, TomC