quick wiring / opinion question
 

quick wiring / opinion question

Started by travelingfools, February 28, 2010, 02:08:26 PM

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travelingfools

Im laying out my wiring today and hoping to start stringing wire Thursday. My question is what are you guys running for wire. I am doing stranded (not romex) and not sure if I should just run the wires, use BX ( metel cased ) or run a plastic conduit and put my indidvidual wires in it. Im talking only 120v at this time. 
John P, Lewiston NY   1987 MC 9 ...ex NJT

JackConrad

I used the blue plastic conduit that is sold at the local HD or Lowes.  Much easier to work with the the BX (metal) conduit. If you are using single wires such as THHN, it must be put inside conduit.  Jack
Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/

travelingfools

John P, Lewiston NY   1987 MC 9 ...ex NJT

bottomacher

Diameter (gauge) is determined by amperage- 15 amp circuits require 14 gauge, 20 amp need 12 gauge, and 30 amps require 10 gauge if the length of the run is not excessive. You should also use wire terminals and not just wrap the wire around the contact screws. It would be a good idea to buy a book on electrical circuits at HD when you are there.

travelingfools

Quote from: bottomacher on February 28, 2010, 03:17:33 PM
Diameter (gauge) is determined by amperage- 15 amp circuits require 14 gauge, 20 amp need 12 gauge, and 30 amps require 10 gauge if the length of the run is not excessive. You should also use wire terminals and not just wrap the wire around the contact screws. It would be a good idea to buy a book on electrical circuits at HD when you are there.

That I understand..I was curiious about the diamater choice of the conduit..but alas,  google answered my question
John P, Lewiston NY   1987 MC 9 ...ex NJT

JackConrad

John,
  Yes, I know they carry both 1/2" and 3/4", it may also be avaialable in other diameters at an electrical supply company.
   If you are starting the wiring of a entire conversion, I would buy a 250' roll of the larger 3/4" and use that exclusively. 3/4" will allow more wires and can still be used with only the wires for a single circuit. This will also allow adding more wires at a leter time, if neccessary. This will eliminate using a bunch of connectors to connect several of the 10' lengths.
   There is a limit of how many wires of different gauges can be run in the conduit. You would have to check a chart for this as you can run fewer of the larger gauge wires. The end connectors that allow you to connect to boxes are avaialabe in snap in or those that require a nut. I use the ones that require a nut as this allows me to remove it to re-route the conduit, if neccessary.
   Since there are differences in RV & residential wiring, I highly recommend George Myers "Designing Electrical Layouts". I am pretty sure it is available on this website.  Jack
Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/

Hi yo silver

Just a helpful (I hope) hint here; The number of wires allowed to be run through a conduit is based on the potential heat that might be generated, not what might fit in the conduit.  That's why it's important to follow the published standards.  Good luck!

Dennis
Blue Ridge Mountains of VA   Hi Yo Silver! MC9 Gone, not forgotten

TomC

I used plastic conduit with stranded wire inside.  I bought it from HD, and is lightweight plastic water tight.  I am using it again.  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

belfert

I'm pretty sure that you can't run individual strands of wire without a conduit or other protection when running high voltage.  (Someone will tell me if I am wrong.)
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

luvrbus

Mine is ran in the plastic coated metal one electrician said metal the other said plastic doing it this way I covered both and it is water tight and not being a big plastics fan of anything it has worked for me 


good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

James77MCI8

Use this book to determine what will fit in various conduits. It will also give you information on de-rating conduit fills based on ambient temps and such. Very handy book. If you don't want to buy one PM me your addy and I will ship you one.

uglysbooks.com
77 MCI 8
8V-71 4 spd

belfert

There are many web sites out on the Internet with the conduit fill tables.  No need to buy a book just for that.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

James77MCI8

 The ugly book is much more than a conduit fill table and it was free offer.
77 MCI 8
8V-71 4 spd

JackConrad

Quote from: belfert on February 28, 2010, 04:35:34 PM
I'm pretty sure that you can't run individual strands of wire without a conduit or other protection when running high voltage.  (Someone will tell me if I am wrong.)

Brian,
    Hopefully our resident expert on wiring, Sean, will chime in. My understanding is that any high voltage wiring must have 2 layers of insulation/protection, except the ground (green) wire. In standard Romex, you have the insulation on each wire plus the outer sheath that covers all the wires. Using indivual wires in conduit, you have the insulation on each wire plus the conduit as the second layer.  All connections are to be inside a junction box, with tape or wire nuts on the wires, the juction box becomes the second layer.  Jack
Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/

travelingfools

Quote from: James77MCI8 on February 28, 2010, 07:29:56 PM
The ugly book is much more than a conduit fill table and it was free offer.


James, the offer is appreciated. Im checking with my local library to see if they can locate a copy. If not, ill be in touch.
John P, Lewiston NY   1987 MC 9 ...ex NJT