What is a good solenoid to use with 24 DC for connectiong house and chassis?

belfert · September 23, 2009, 06:00:08 PM

I need to find a 24 volt DC solenoid to connect my house and chassis electrical systems. Will the White-Rodgers 586-114111 work? I am concerned because there are several warnings about not using it at over the rated 24 volts. For a use in a 12 volt vehicle they recommend a 15 volt solenoid instead.

I have a solenoid for my air conditioning that isn't being used, but it is doing screwy things. The connection to the house batteries is feeding power back into the bus even when the bus is off. I took the connections off the solenoid and the solenoid shows open when the power is off. I don't know if the power is feeding back through the coil or what. I just figure starting over might be better.

The power feed I am using is only active when the bus is running. The power feed to the air conditioning solenoid apparently comes off another relay/solenid, but I still want to be able to control the connection with my own solenoid.

I am asking about this solenoid because Grainger has it. If anyone has a different solenoid I can get quickly I am all ears.

luvrbus · September 23, 2009, 06:22:22 PM

Brian, any good 300 amp continuous duty solenoid Na pa has them for 25 bucks or if you want a fancy one 200 bucks for a marine type

good luck

belfert · September 23, 2009, 06:25:57 PM

Deleted

luvrbus · September 23, 2009, 06:33:12 PM

Do you want me to go buy one and send it to you for 25.00. You do this every time when I try to help so do what ever pleases you FWIW you can buy one from Prevost for 25 bucks or less

belfert · September 23, 2009, 07:01:06 PM

I'm happy to buy one from Napa for $25. You happen to have a part number? I am going there tomorrow regardless if the price is $25 or $50. I don't quite understand how Napa can sell one for half the price of everyone else, but they might surprise me.

I don't doubt that Prevost has one for $25, but I don't have time to order one right now.

belfert · September 23, 2009, 07:03:01 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on September 23, 2009, 06:33:12 PM
Do you want me to go buy one and send it to you for 25.00. You do this every time when I try to help so do what ever pleases you FWIW you can buy one from Prevost for 25 bucks or less

My sincerest apologies for my original post. I'll delete it.

gumpy · September 23, 2009, 08:27:31 PM

If the NAPA one doesn't work out, I used one from Grainger last year for connectiing house and coach batts on a friend's MC9.
I'd have to look up the number. It was about $75, though.

John Z · September 23, 2009, 08:31:42 PM

Sort of related to this thread - what is the type of solenoid that only uses current to switch the contacts versus using current to hold the contacts open or closed. That would seem to be a better type of solenoid for my use. Any ideas of where those are available in the 250 - 300 amp range and what they might cost?

Sean · September 23, 2009, 08:52:14 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on September 23, 2009, 06:22:22 PM
... Napa has them for 25 bucks ...

Clifford, do you happen to know the brand and model for that? I've been recommending the White-Rodgers for close to $100, and I'm happy to start sending people to Napa instead if they have one that works.

Quote from: John Z on September 23, 2009, 08:31:42 PM
Sort of related to this thread - what is the type of solenoid that only uses current to switch the contacts versus using current to hold the contacts open or closed. That would seem to be a better type of solenoid for my use. Any ideas of where those are available in the 250 - 300 amp range and what they might cost?

The manufacturer is Intellitec. They are commonly used on commercial RVs for battery disconnects; I've found them in the RV surplus places occasionally for a decent price. If you order them list, they are pricey. They come in 100-amp and 200-amp sizes. Google "Intellitec Battery Disconnect" and you'll find plenty of sources.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.Blogspot.com

chris4905 · September 23, 2009, 09:00:04 PM

I made this recommendation while responding to your last post a couple weeks ago.

I have been using for the past 9 years, with no problems, connecting my start and house batts for charging:

Cole-Hersee
part number: #24144
Continuous Duty 200A
24VDC

How about $35.14 ??
Your link: http://www.ase-supply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CH-24143

Gary '79 5C · September 24, 2009, 01:56:57 AM

Belfert,

Reading your post I was thinkin' that you might relook at your existing A/C relay from your coach. You mention it is doing screwy things, but that relay is built like a tank.
I see others have sourced 24V 200A continous duty relays, and have demonstrated years of sucess, but me thinks the coach relay is substancially heavier. I know 24V 200A continous is just that, but I pulled a cole hersey out as it was nearly welded on mine, I did stretch the spring, reassembled, reinstalled and utilized until I switched to the coach A/C relay I was not using any longer. From my industrial electrical experience, I do not believe that a 200A continous duty relay for $30.00 will hold up, as well. The coach relay is I believe about $400 new, $200 used. I am not trying to spend more of your money.
I would suggest a bench test of that coach relay, as you might spend some money & time to find the same problem existing with the new relay. I am saying this from my personal (shameful) experience.

Good Luck,

belfert · September 24, 2009, 03:58:55 AM

I was going to do more research on the solenoid in my coach, but the label on the solenoid broke into a bunch of pieces when I touched it. It is a White-Rodgers.

The solenoid is fed by two 90 amp circuits for a total of 180 amps. I was figuring a replacement might be in order since it is doing screwy things.

gumpy · September 24, 2009, 04:36:29 AM

Quote from: belfert on September 24, 2009, 03:58:55 AM
The solenoid is fed by two 90 amp circuits for a total of 180 amps. I was figuring a replacement might be in order since it is doing screwy things.

I don't understand. What do you mean by, "... fed by two 90 amp circuits for a total of 180 amps."?

All you are trying to do is connect the coach batteries with the house batteries, correct?

So you have a large (2/0 ga) wire running from the the coach batteries to one side of the solenoid, and an equally large (2/0 ga) wire running from the house batteries to the other side, correct?

And you have a small switched hot wire going from one of the banks (probably coach batts) to one side of the solenoid coil, and a ground on the other side, correct?

Nothing funny about that. What am I missing?

belfert · September 24, 2009, 04:44:01 AM

The manufacturer ran two smaller circuits to the selenoid instead of a larger wire. Each wire is protected by an auto reset 90 amp circuit breaker. The solenoid is turned on/off by a switch on the dash that turns the A/C and heat on and off. It is not always on.

I looked it up in the parts manual and the solenoid is only 100 amp which is why it seemed small.

gumpy · September 24, 2009, 04:47:24 AM

Quote from: belfert on September 24, 2009, 04:44:01 AM
The manufacturer ran two smaller circuits to the selenoid instead of a larger wire. Each wire is protected by an auto reset 90 amp circuit breaker. The solenoid is turned on/off by a switch on the dash that turns the A/C and heat on and off. It is not always on.

I looked it up in the parts manual and the solenoid is only 100 amp which is why it seemed small.

Oh, I misunderstood. I thought this was the solenoid you already had hooked up as a battery crossover that is doing screwy things.