Eletrical problems.

[loosenut]

I traded out my starter batteries.  They were unreliable and left me in the lurch.  I bought the same brand and form factor but 1400 CCA instead of 1000 CCA

I believe I hooked up the big leads correctly: Switch tied to + Battery1 - tied to + Battery2 - tied to ground.

I have two smaller leads, I must have hooked up incorrectly.  That I need to reconnect.  One the lead and one is a ground for the 12 volt relays.

When I hooked up the small wires the headlights lit up for a second then went dark.  The all the exterior lights except headlights work correctly.  The dash lights work as they have and I don't know about the speedometer.  I checked he headlamps and they light up when hooked directly to a battery so I must have fried a fuse.  Do relay's fry similar to a fuse or do they just no operate when miss fired?

The bus will start but not run from the drivers seat.  Since the incident I have found out that the engine starts and runs from the mechanics panel at rear of the coach.

While reading schematics I've found an item labeled "run relay".   Does anybody know where run-relay might  be located?  On dash, electrical panel under the drivers area, engine?  The engine is a Detroit Diesel 6v92TA possibly CA certified 260HP with an Allison 748(?) in a Neoplan Chassis with the German suspension etc.

Will the bus operate normally if I use the mechanics panel instead of the key?  I would hate to get it rolling and not be able to stop it.

Where would I take a 12 volt circuit off the batteries.  If I hook the small ground wire to the negative terminal of Battery 2 above where would I hook the other lead.  First or second battery? As the two leads are hooked does it make a difference?

Will I find love in the next episode...oops another topic.

Any help is much appreciated while bus is secure it isn't running and I would like to move it.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

[Don Fairchild]

If I read you correctly you have it wired for 24V, doesn't Neoplan use a 12V system

Don

[NJT 5573]

+ to +, _ to _ for a 12 volt system. See if the headlight bulbs are blown, that should give you a clue. If you hook + to _ you will have 24 volts.

[loosenut]

I believe the 24v is for the DD and Allison replacements.  The original owner changed out the German Engine and Transmission because he wasn't confident that he could have it repaired if needed.  He like you had both a NEO and GMC.  Originally I thought I had the same model as you but in going through his paper work it looks like I have an AN 213, Jetliner.

I've wondered about why there are so much Vanner Equipment on the bus.  It must be to keep Europe separate from the US.



Mike

[loosenut]

+ to +, _ to _ for a 12 volt system. See if the headlight bulbs are blown, that should give you a clue. If you hook + to _ you will have 24 volts.

I only took one lamp out and it wasn't blown.  So let me get this straight.  If I hook the 12 volt ground lead to the #2 batteries ground.  I should hook the voltage wire to the negative on the first battery?

I know I seem dense but actually I am.

thanks for your reply.

Mike

[Hartley]

Ohh....

You need to figure out if your bus is actually 24 volts.

Were the two original batteries wired in "series" ( for 24 volts? )

Or in "Parallel" for 12 volts.?

If they were in series for the 24 volts. Then those two small leads
should have been hooked back up to the(POS) terminal of your
battery # 2 ( This is 12 volts + ) in relation to the Ground cable
from Battery #2 which goes to the chassis.


(+24) to Disconnect Switch from battery #1 ( batteries in series )

The (-) Negative cable from Battery #1 goes to the (POS+) Terminal
of battery #2 ( This is your 12 volt tap point for those wires )

The (-) NEG of battery #2 goes to the chassis ( frame/Engine ground ).

Now.. Here is a possible problem. IF and only if those reportedly 12 volt leads
got hooked to the (24 volt+) supply. You could have damaged other equipment
such as the Transmission Computer/ Gauges, Lights and or Engine Control Computer. ( Here is where you Faint!!!!)... ( Those electronic modules cost
more than you paid for the bus if you have them! )

You need to get someone that is familiar with or can become familiar with
your electrical system before you attempt anything else or let the rest of the
smoke out of stuff.

[Sean]

The Neoplan Jetliner is a 24-volt coach.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

[buswarrior]

as noted: STOP NOW!!!

You will fry more expensive things than light bulbs if you keep slapping wires onto batteries indiscriminately.

Or, at least wait until we work out a commission with your eventual service provider.

GET HELP to identify the circuits and proper connection sequence.

For the rest of our viewers, this is a great illustration of why you want to collect all your wiring to a common post, popularly the main disconnect for that voltage, and have a single wire to the 24v, a single to the 12v centre tap, and the ground, all well labelled.

We have to take the connections off the batteries too often for maintenance or replacement purposes to let these sometimes numerous wires get mixed up.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[DaveG]

Another thing some folks do is take a picture with their cellphone camera before they rip it apart, then have a picture to refer to if needed.

[gyrocrasher]

Another thing some folks do is take a picture with their cellphone camera before they rip it apart, then have a picture to refer to if needed.

I do this too. If a camera is not available, a quick diagram w/labels works also. Mitch

[JohnEd]

Mike,

Take Busswarrior's advice to heart.  When he says "fry stuff" think $2k for a new computer and then another disgusting amt to get it programmed.  The trans has some sort of computer.  Do you have a Vanner?  Generator diodes?  Inverter? etc.

You need help with this and your level of familiarity is scary to me.  No insult intended.  We all want the best for you.  There is a lot to know about prepping terminals and sizing bat cables and corrosion control/inhibiting and more.  Do you have any bus Knuts anywhere near you?  Get a guy from a battery shop to stop by and figure out the connections and give you a little schooling.

You need a 3 stage smart charger or your new bats will last only a short while compared to the 5 years they should last.  25 amp Smart charger at Wall mart cost about $50.

Good luck with this.

Your Friend!!!!

John

[Van]

This might help,
http://www.aessolar.com/Resources/diagrams.htm

[loosenut]

I did make a mistake and not take a picture of the wires.  I thought it a good sign that I can start and operate the engine from the mechanics switch in the engine compartment.  From the driver's seat I can start the engine but it immediately dies to nothing.

Before finding the 12 volt marking I jumped the head light and it worked.  I figured it meant that that circuit is 12 volt.

I have found 3 Vanner devices.  One black box Vanner at the house batteries that looks to be completely wired.  Another Black box Vanner device above the engine batteries that is partially wired with some leads cut, taped and dangling. 

Next to the batteries I have a Vanner panel with several circuits and terminal blocks that seems to be wired correctly.

BW you are correct I can fry something.  My problem is I don't know where to turn for electrical help since it is not running I can't drive for help.

Van, thanks for the link I will see what I can do with the info.

I will look at the link and hopefully will be able to provide more info Tuesday.


Mike

[busshawg]

did you figure it out?

Grant

[Van]

A circuit breaker or relay,maybe?