Does anyone know any thing about how to replace window with solid material.
 

Does anyone know any thing about how to replace window with solid material.

Started by epssty, July 23, 2009, 11:17:03 AM

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epssty

Does anyone know any thing about how to replace window with solid material. What material is the best to use and how do you fasten it to the frame. My bus is an Orion 1990 ddec 1 dd6v92

Hi yo silver

Epssty,

No sarcasm intended, but it is apparent that you haven't been reading this board for long.  If I may, I'll offer a couple of suggestions.  First, just read, read, read the postings , following the threads that interest you, preferably on a daily basis.  There is a wealth of information here, and if you are busy like most of us, you might have to do what I do, look over the postings in the morning and again in the evening.

The other thing that might be helpful is to read the thread at the top of the board regarding getting started, or read this before posting, or something like that.  I forget just how it is worded.  I think it's in the shaded area.  If you do the "search" with key words regarding what you want help with, it will bring up the threads.  It's sorta asking a lot to want someone to sit down and type an explanation of a procedure and a description of materials, and perhaps post pictures, when the information has already been posted and all you need to do is look.  Always try that first and you'll find that more guys are more willing to offer help.   

If this is stuff you already know, don't feel insulted.  I'm far from an expert here.  I hope this helps.

Dennis
Blue Ridge Mountains of VA   Hi Yo Silver! MC9 Gone, not forgotten

luvrbus

He may be like me Dennis I can never find anything in using the search part of this board I think it goes away with time maybe not but the search feature on this board is not the best or the easiest for me to use.  
So cut the person a little slack and help him like Nick, there would be very little traffic if the same questions were not asked over again by newbees    

good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

gumpy

Yeah, I agree. It's not the easiest thing to find threads on this board.

So, generally, but not always, the window is removed, along with it's frame, and then aluminum or steel is riveted over the opening. You can also use caulk to glue the sheet in place, or 3M VHB tape, or just screw the sheet in place. Be sure to seal it well with butyl caulk. All methods have been used with success (and some failures).  You're pretty much free to choose whichever method works for your bus and your needs and desires.

Of course there are other ways to do it, too. You could simply remove the glass (or plastic as it might be in you bus) and replace it with a suitable material of the same thickness and dimensions, such as fiberglass covered plywood. Have to say I don't know anyone that has done this, but there's no reason it can't be done that way.  The frames could remain, and the gasket could be reused. The windows would still open, if desired.

Post some photos of your bus. Maybe we can get a better idea what you are working with. Personally, I'm not familiar with your bus model.

craig
Craig Shepard
Located in Minnesquito

http://bus.gumpydog.com - "Some Assembly Required"

gus

epssty,

I don't have my windows covered because I love the old bus look. I have both the old bus look and a motorhome!

I've never understood why a busnut gets a beautiful old bus and proceeds to cover all the windows so it looks like everything else going down the road?? I don't want to look like a S&S, I want to look like a bus!!

My windows are either painted black inside or covered with curtains/shades or both.

I'm slowly getting rid of the black paint and using only curtains because the black gets too hot in the sun. It is nice in cold weather but not so good in hot. The curtains also add a small bit of insulation.
PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR

belfert

For some reason I have had very bad luck with butyl caulk on my windows.  Just about every one of my windows leaked when I used butyl caulk under the flanges.  I redid one window with butyl tape which is better, but it didn't seal in one spot.  I finally put a bead of buytl caulk around the edge of the windows and it works, but the butyl caulk stays soft basically forever.  I am probably going to use RTV silicone for my next window installation.

When I covered all of my windows I used polyurethane caulk to seal the edges.  I then riveted the sheets onto the bus.  The polyurethane caulk is difficult to remove, but I figured those sheets are never coming off.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

flynbanjo

We blanked out seven windows on our MC-9.  We started by removing the windows frame and all.  Then added braces in the openings to make up for the lost strength. Our local supplier sold 4 X 10 sheets of aluminum(5052 alloy 0.064 thick).  The sheets were cut down to match the original skin.  We used plumbers tape 10 mills thick to insulate between the dissimilar metals.  We then heated the panels up to 200 degrees using a weed burner and riveted them in place while they were hot.  We tried to copy what MCI had originally done making sure the seems lined up and the rivet patterns matched.   
Steven
81 MCI MC9
Hudson, Florida

Dreamscape

I've used the search feature several times, it leaves a lot to be desired for sure.

Ask lots of questions, we all have when we started and continue to do so. If you don't know how else are you going to find the answer. That's what this board is for!

I haven't done any skin work so I can't help, but some of the suggestions above should work, especially flynbanjo.

Give us a better description on what you want to do, a picture or two is helpful also.

Good Luck and Welcome!

Paul
______________________________________________________

Our coach was originally owned by the Dixie Echoes.

Jeremy

I don't know how the windows are arranged in Orion buses, but mine have the glass bonded directly to the steel framework of the bus (ie. no 'window frame' as such). I simply removed the windows, moulded up some foam sandwich panels with the same thickness and curve as the original double-glazed units, and then Sikflexed them into the original opening. The joints are covered in the same way they were originally - the vertical joints between windows are covered by lengths of flat plastic trim, and the upper and lower horizontal joints are covered by a rubber moulding - the top moulding incorporates the rainwater gutter, whilst the matching bottom moulding is just there for show.

The advantage of the foam sandwich panels is their intrinsic strength and rigidity compared to aluminium sheet, and because of the foam they have some sound and heat insulation 'built in'.

Jeremy
A shameless plug for my business - visit www.magazineexchange.co.uk for back issue magazines - thousands of titles covering cars, motorbikes, aircraft, railways, boats, modelling etc. You'll find lots of interest, although not much covering American buses sadly.