Oops! What did I break now! Anybody know of a good MCI 9 repair in Lancaster CA?

[regener8]

Hi,
I swapped out my 8D batteries (2) and on the install I touched the positive against the wall with my wrench and now the bus doesn't seem to want to start - I just drove it for 30 minutes and all responded well.....any sense of what I did with the wrench grounding the positive to the bus wall to the starting system? Does it simply just need to be reset?

Also, I need a good guy to lookover the bus that been stored (though started frequently) and about to go into more use - its a Detroil 6V72 MCI 9 from 1983 and been super reliable (we like this)....I will pay fairly especially if there's driving to the site involved - Im just off the "Ave L" Exit in Lancaster if you want to MapQuest it....thanks, or you can feel free to call: 32three-54seven-832six (number intentionally encrpyted for the net)....

[JackConrad]

I think you probably have a 6V92.  You say it does not start, does it turn over and not run or not turn over?  Is it DDEC?  Jack

[John316]

Check fuses!!!

God bless,

John

[regener8]

Right, it does not crank - forgive me, I don't know what DDEC means......thanks for replying!

[MacGyver]

Disconnect your batteries.

Let them sit for a good 30 minutes unconnected...

While that's going on, go to your circuit panel(s) and check that the breakers are all in their reset position (on my 60 footer, the breakers had button-like rods sticking out of them that were obvious when tripped)...

After that and the time has passed, reconnect your batteries but MAKE SURE the knife switches are in the OFF position (assuming they're present)...

Since you're getting power to the system, I'm discounting the master breaker being tripped (on both my buses, it's a REALLY BIG red button (or two) next to the batteries)....  But, again... you're getting power.

Sounds like a breaker, or the computer's now confused about something (assuming it's a DDEC model...  That's "Detroit Diesel Engine Control"...  It's the ECU for the bus)...

Good luck!

-Mac

[Buffalo SpaceShip]

Older coaches are pretty simple to troubleshoot. Your BIG wires are fine (#00 or #000, likely in your case) ... I can attest that you can weld a tool to the side of your coach before any big wire would short circuit.  There's probably a problem with one of your smaller wires... assuming the batts are OK.

Sometimes a faulty shutdown circuit (temp, oil pressure, etc.) can prevent starting, so work with your wiring diagram and first, check for power at the rear starter panel. There's solenoids, magnetic switches, and circuit breakers (probably not fuses) at the panel. Take the little wire off of the starter solenoid and check for power there with a long test lead. If that has power, it could be your starter solenoid... there's a way to bypass it, but it's not for the faint of heart (involves shorting another big tool across it). If there's no power, check the mag. switch all the way back to the starter switch.

Keep us updated on your progress.

Oh, and only start your coach when you can drive it for 30 minutes at a stretch. It does no good (and potential harm) to just start it and let it idle whilst in storage.

HTH,
Brian

[RickB]

If you have a Vanner equalizer ( a rectangular box usually near you batteries) they are pretty specific as to how the batteries should be connected/disconnected. If my memory seves me you are to disconnect the negative leading to the vanner first and reconnect it first as well. Don't know if that's why you can't get it running but I thought it was worth the mention.

Rick

[steveggt]

Check with Antelope Valley Charter.  They're based in Lancaster and do a lot of line-haul over the Grapevine to the Los Angeles basin area.  Good Luck - Steve