Help Please 6v92 731v NO THROTTLE - Page 2
 

Help Please 6v92 731v NO THROTTLE

Started by dale, July 09, 2009, 09:22:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

MCI-RICK

Dale,

First - Welcome aboard!

My bus has 4 batteries.  I have a 12 volt system and my batteries are connected in parallel.

I take my bus out for a drive regularly so my batteries never get discharged.

Do you have a 12volt or 24 volt system?

If you plan on disconnecting your batteries to charge them individually, first make a diagram of the battery cables showing where each is attached and how it's routed.  You don't want to try guessing later.

Check the voltage of each battery individually when not connected to others.

BTW, Your engine is likely a DDEC 2 and has several safety "shut down" features.  A few are, low voltage, low oil pressure, low coolant & high temp.

You may want to keep your eyes open for a DDR (Diagnostic Data Reader).  It plugs into your bus computer and gives you info on many different items including shut down codes.

You can retrieve codes with out it though.  

Sean has a Neoplan and might be able to provide info or where to get info on yours.  Although Sean's is not a transit.

HTH,

Rick

Aim high but look out below

RTS/Daytona

Dale

Couldn't reach you by phone

The DDEC has a feature called "POWER CONTROL" aka "THROTTLE INHIBIT" - If connector J1A pin H2 was 12volt - the THROTTLE IS DISABLED

either:

0 - find the open door or kneeling switch that causing the problem

0- Find the DOOR OVERRIDE switch (RTS's have it under the dash access panel) - see the other post about the SIGN BAY ??

0- Find the relay that's marked "THROTTLE CONTROL or THROTTLE INHIBIT  or some of that type and REMOVE IT
   removing the relay (will usually) just stops the DDEC J1A - H2 pin from being energize - pull the relay lets it float (like it should if all the doors/kneel switch are closed

0- Last option - remove the wire from the DDEC connector

Pete RTS/Daytona

If you ain't part of the solution, then you're part of the problem.

dale

Thanks for the info guys, im at a point i need to back off a day or so and clear my head, (PETE) man your great guy and have been a hugh help. Its a ddec system for sure, all my dash lights are working properly, and about the electrical panel: shows the basic like lights/blinkers and so on, but most are labled as a part#, im gonna get the neoplan manual from the company you gave me and get familier with intire bus and electrical, at this point im not sure if its not my batterys and low voltage. (NJT) mentioned a hand held reader and turn the junk off, Is this possible? really the only saftey feature i would like to keep is "low fluid levels shut off "" on engine and tranny. (MAC) I do have a rear door overide, i will try it. thanks (PETE) i was able to get the bus in my shop to prep for paint, i think im gonna let the mechanical issue rest a couple of days and clear my head, get my manuals and gain some knowledge first. Im gonna borrow a scan tool and get my meter out after my manuals get here and then get busy eliminating the electrical. I hope your wife is ok!! i traded my wife off so i could buy a bus haha!!! I guess that blowed up in my face!! Thanks fellows i will keep you posted. Thanks a million Dale

RTS/Daytona

Using a PROLINK - I believe the parameter option is "THROTTLE INHIBIT"  (on or off)  - don't remember

but the more I think about it - the more I believe that

MacGyver  has the simple solution --> ".....On my 60 footer, when I had it, there was a "Door Open Override" switch in the sign bay..."

or remove the relay when you find it

just like RTS's


Thanks - My wife is back home after OUT Patient Surgury - feeling a lot better - but tired" - been a long day for me too  - 

Good Nite enjoy your weekend - we'll talk later after you clear your head 
If you ain't part of the solution, then you're part of the problem.