Type L or type M copper for coolant lines?

[belfert]

Is going with type L copper going to be overkill versus going with type M copper for coolant lines?  I would rather not pay the extra $15 for type L 1.5" copper if it is overkill.

Also, if I buy 1.5" copper, the OD is 1.625".  Will this fit into 1.5" coolant hose?

[boogiethecat]

The only issue I'd think you'd be bit concerned about is crushing the thin stuff when clamping down the hose...but if you sweat a barbed hose fitting on there, all your questions are answered and it oughta be fine.  I never was happy clamping hose to smooth tubing anyway...

It'll probably take a sweat-thread fitting and a barbed hose fitting... McMaster has it all...

[belfert]

I suppose barbed fittings are the way to go, but $18 each starts adding up to real money.  Nobody ever said owning a bus is cheap.

[JohnEd]

Do they make barbed fitting out of steel?

[Chopper Scott]

I think the thicker type L would be a wiser choice. You need to take into account vibration and the constant heat cycles that the system will go through.

[rv_safetyman]

Per the other thread, don't overlook exhaust tubing. It is sised by OD.  Should last for a ton of years with antifreeze.

You will NOT be able to get the PROPER construction coolant hose (wrapped construction per the other thread), over the 1.625 OD tubing.

I rolled beads in exhaust tubing using a modified bead roller (about $100).  Not worth buying for your limited connections, but worked great for my large number of tubes when I did my conversion.  Have details on my project pages below.

You can have someone run a bead of MIG welding around the steel tubing and that will act as your bead.

Jim

[belfert]

I could get exhaust tubing relatively cheap and there is a muffler place down the block, but if it was bent as a single piece I pretty much could never get it into place.  I certainly could have it done as two pieces, but then I have more host connections to worry about.

I'm still thinking about this.