waste tank additives

[jok]

Since I plumbed our conversion (5 years ago) I would get waste tank odors inside at times, especially if I opened a window while driving. I decided to look into the problem before our Spring Break trip. I figured that my "P" traps might be emptying while underway. I modified my drain lines running to the tanks with deep "P" traps. I now have 8-10" deep traps. I feel the biggest problem was the original shower "P" trap. I also remembered an old post about toilet overflows ("That" odor we all hate..." from the summer of '07) and found it in the archives. I filled the toilet bowl above the drain hole (I have an old SeaLand that allows water into the bowl by lifting the foot pedal).

Success. No smell at all, even with the window open. Everyone is happy.

My question, finally, is about waste tank additives. In the past I always used the additives in the black and grey tanks. Before leaving for Spring Break I forgot to put in the additive. Still, I had no smell. I know it is suppose to help break down the waste. We have a septic at home and don't use additives. Does everyone use the waste tank additive in their tank?

Thanks,
John

[Singing Land Cruiser]

Hello John, we are not experts on this but, we found that when we did not use waste tank additives we would have clogging problems it our black tank. When additives and lots of water were used, we have no problems. Thats the poop on the poop. All the Best, M&C

[jok]

Thanks M&C. That's a good enough reason for me to use the additive. I definetly don't want a plugged up tank or drain.

John

[WEC4104]

Like many of the discussions that take place on this board, I think you'll find a couple of different camps, each with a different take on this subject.

But in general, I can think of at least three different categories of additives that are added to waste tanks.

1) Odor controlling (or masking) additives.
2) Additives to assist the break down of solid materials
3) Products claiming to clean the tank gauge components

Of course some products say they do 2 or all 3 of the above.

From comments in earlier discussions on this subject, I think everyone's concensus includes:

a) Stay away from products containing formaldahyde.
b) Don't put anything in your tanks that will screw up a septic field that it will eventually be drained into.
c) You want to encourage biological decomposition activity in the tanks. Occaisionally a novice will dump cleaners and/or disinfecting chemicals into the tank thinking they will make it squeeky clean. Bad move.

I carry some of packets of the granular smell-good stuff, but generally don't use them.  I don't usually need to when I am practicing good tank management.  I don't see a problem with adding a little Rid-X now and then, to give the little bio-breakdown fellas a little kick in the pants. 

[HighTechRedneck]

We full time in ours so that puts us in a little different usage category than most.  On our tank, we put the drain about 1" above the bottom.  So it never completely drains.  This "reseeds" the natural bacteria that help break down the solids.  I usually only dump when near full.  I never dump if I have less than a quarter tank.  As a general rule, everything is liquified by the time we dump.  I have a steel tank and can tell by the sound I don't have a build up in the bottom.  So it is working well.

On the occaision that I have felt like too much antibacterial soap or toilet bowl cleaner made it into the tank, I have added a Rid-X type enzyme product to help.  I try to limit use of bowl cleaner to dump day

When I first set up the system, the toilet came with two packs of deoderizer.  It just made it smell like pine scented poo when the toilet trap door was open (that's about the only time we get septic odor) and when I dumped.  It really still stunk just as much, just with some pine scent on top of it.  That seemed rather worthless, so I've never bought tank deoderizer.

[boogiethecat]

My favorite additive is called " Eco-Save Original Formula" it comes in liquid and I've used it in two busses for 6 years now.  Ecologically safe, super effective at breaking stuff up and no smells.
I highly recommend it
http://www.eco-save.com

[HB of CJ]

Crazy things happen when our "home on wheels" becomes a dynamic force rolling down the road.  Air currents are fickle things; undetermined low air pressure pockets can force smells up and forward to the crew compartment.

Sometimes a perfectly good looking soil stack holding tank vent pipe design can cause problems in specific driving conditions.  Kinda like sometimes getting diesel exhaust sticks when driving slow with a strong tail wind.  HB of CJ

stinks Post

[FloridaCliff]

I also don't use any additives.

As far as odor's go, I had a few issues in the beginning, but figured out the solutions.

As you stated I make sure all the "P" traps are filled prior to departure, I used to get the "odor" when anyone flushed while underway, but changed my standard RV roof vent top to one I made.

It is a 2" tee facing fore-aft, with a 2"-1" bushing in the fore position.
This creates a venturi effect and "so far" has worked perfectly, moving or stopped.

YMMV

Cliff

[HighTechRedneck]

That brings up another element of ours.  I have one of those fin type swivel venturi caps on it.  No matter what direction the wind come from it swivels to create a slight suction on the vent.

[boogiethecat]

Simply cutting your vent pipe at a 45 degree angle with the highest point towards the front of the bus, and the lowest point facing rear about 2-3" off the roof, does the same venturi job, costs nothing and looks good...

[HighTechRedneck]

Simply cutting your vent pipe at a 45 degree angle with the highest point towards the front of the bus, and the lowest point facing rear about 2-3" off the roof, does the same venturi job, costs nothing and looks good...

But what happens when you are parked and the wind comes from the rear?  Then it would work as a ram scoop.

The fin type swivels around and still works.  It only takes the slightest hint of a breeze to swivel to match it.

[Dreamscape]

I used to have one of those fin type, lost it on the road somewhere coming back from TBR last year. It lasted about 5 years, I just installed a 90 until I figure out what to do. I really liked the fin type because no matter where the wind blew it worked. Guess maybe I'll get another one!

This thread is interesting as we just started full timing and wondered about the black/gray tank. I guess I'll let her fill up some and then drain. Right now we just let 'er go all the time. I guess we need to let the little guys do their thing!

Thanks,

~Paul~

[JackConrad]

I guess I'll let her fill up some and then drain. Right now we just let 'er go all the time. I guess we need to let the little guys do their thing!
Thanks,
~Paul~

Paul,
   Another problem with the "Let R Go" method is that the solids may build up in the tank due to a lock of enough water to carry them out of the tank.  We were told years ago to never dump less than 1/4-1/3 tank.  The fuller the better.  Jack

[Blacksheep]

Ok I guess I'll chime in. My black and grey tank are one! I only drain it when full or very close to full. My vent goes down rather than the usual up and NEVER a smell, sitting idle or moving. I try and keep the traps full while idle for long periods. I also don't use any additives because everyone knows my s--t don't stink! "LOL"
Ok it does, but you can't tell it from the bus!

Ace

[luvrbus]

Ace, I know you like your vent going out the bottom but that is a bad place to be venting a tank under your bus.
Sewer contains gases that are heavier than air and will settle like propane and are very deadly.
Waste has hydrogen sulfide,ammonia,methane,carbon dioxide and a couple more dioxides but I forgot what.
Not trying to bust your chops here just passing on some information for your safety the stuff will go off like a bomb under the right conditions   good luck