A bunch of questions...

[RickB]

Got the second radiator out and the overflow reservoir as well . I have 3 broken off bolts in the bottom of the radiators so I was not a happy camper at least part of the time working on the "big ole rollin' turd".
From the looks of the insides of the radiators this was definitely part of my overheating in the mountain issues, pretty serious build up on the core but nothing a little chemical bath won't fix.

Tried an EZ out on the first bolt and it didn't work. May leave them in I figure the guy doing my radiator has alot more tools to work with and it would probably be alot easier with the radiator disassembled I also don't want to take the chance of getting shavings in the coolant system.

All the seals were completely rotten and crumbling along with the overflow reservoir grommet/bushings.

I am going to try and fabricate or order replacement radiator seals but they didn't have expanding foam when they did the conversion on my bus so I may take a few liberties here and there. Thank God for advances in technology.

I am thinking about using the walnut shell based bead blast  to clean up the blower compartment. There is no way I would get rid of all the dust and silica if I used regular sandblasting media to get the back end ready for paint. Has anybody used the walnut shell media to remove rust and paint before?

Also where am I going to get replacment dome head rivets and do I need any special equipment to rerivet the back corner cowlings back on? I planned on picking up an air riveter gun at Harbor Frieght this weekend. Does a pancake compressor have enough ooomph to run the air riveter???

Well, I have asked enough questions for one day now haven't I???

Thanks for always being there folks...

Rick

[Skykingrob]

Hi Rick
Most of your questions, I can't answer. I bought an air riverter from Harbor Freight and ran it with a pancake compressor at 100 PSI with no problem except the nosepiece on riveter. It has a tendency to work loose, if it does, the stems start not popping off at the right time on the rivets. A quick tighten with the supplied tool, makes it work right again.
I have read several times on this board that buying from MCI was easy, cheapest and a way to get original. Since I don't have an MCI, I don't know if that is correct advice for your rivet needs. I believe Luke handles alot of MCI parts. Others, who own MCI, will likely know and if so, have the phone number.
Should be good to go.

Rob
91 LeMirageXL
Missouri

[Airbag]

Got the second radiator out and the overflow reservoir as well . I have 3 broken off bolts in the bottom of the radiators so I was not a happy camper at least part of the time working on the "big ole rollin' turd".
From the looks of the insides of the radiators this was definitely part of my overheating in the mountain issues, pretty serious build up on the core but nothing a little chemical bath won't fix.

Tried an EZ out on the first bolt and it didn't work. May leave them in I figure the guy doing my radiator has alot more tools to work with and it would probably be alot easier with the radiator disassembled I also don't want to take the chance of getting shavings in the coolant system.

All the seals were completely rotten and crumbling along with the overflow reservoir grommet/bushings.

I am going to try and fabricate or order replacement radiator seals but they didn't have expanding foam when they did the conversion on my bus so I may take a few liberties here and there. Thank God for advances in technology.

I am thinking about using the walnut shell based bead blast  to clean up the blower compartment. There is no way I would get rid of all the dust and silica if I used regular sandblasting media to get the back end ready for paint. Has anybody used the walnut shell media to remove rust and paint before?

Also where am I going to get replacment dome head rivets and do I need any special equipment to rerivet the back corner cowlings back on? I planned on picking up an air riveter gun at Harbor Frieght this weekend. Does a pancake compressor have enough ooomph to run the air riveter???

Well, I have asked enough questions for one day now haven't I???

Thanks for always being there folks...

Rick

If you going to spring for walnut shells you might pay just a smudge more and do plastic beads. Why? Plastic is inert and will not soak up water where the walnut shells will absorb water and the stuff trapped in the seams will start to corrode. Ask how I know.

The rivet gun you get get from harbor frieght will be an air hammer and not worth the trash can you throw it in. Get a rivet gun there is a big difference. Take it from a man who has smashed a million rivets in airliners.  The novice mechanics in the airline industry that use an air hammer soon have a crowd of white shirts and ties standing around them with frowns on there faces and arms crossed. They only do it once. You can hear the difference. These are the real McCoys they hit slower with a longer stroke.

http://www.ustool.com/store/cart.php?m=content&page=6


This document has everything you need to know about riveting and rivet identification. Just scroll down through it till you find the section on riveting.

http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2004.pdf

[luvrbus]

RickB if you are talking about the air pop rivet puller from HF they are not that bad if remember to keep it full of oil and a small pancake compressor does fine.Byers or FSI can answer the question on your rivets one of the guys here will have a contact for both.   good luck

[Airbag]

RickB if you are talking about the air pop rivet puller from HF they are not that bad if remember to keep it full of oil and a small pancake compressor does fine.Byers or FSI can answer the question on your rivets one of the guys here will have a contact for both.   good luck

He said rivet gun. That to me is an air operated gun designed to upset the shop head on a solid rivet with a bucking bar. Now a puller is a tool used for blind rivets.

[luvrbus]

Airbag, I thought he was talking about a puller because the place he is working has a lot of pop rivets.Like you if I was buying a gun it would come from a aircraft tool co I buy my rivet tools from Brown supply in OKC cost more but made for the long haul and I do know a little about buck rivets the Eagle I have has 5,976 of those babies on the siding each one installed with tender loving care by me      good luck