Sticking Throatle Cable.

johns4104s · February 26, 2009, 05:06:58 AM

Started the MCI 9 up last night, the cable was stuck, I sprayed lots of penetrating oil on the components in the engine compartment and tried to spray where the cable disappears inside the sleeve. Worked back and forth until it came loose. Any permant fix? I would hate to pull it all the way out like I had to with my 04, hoped there was a better solution?

John

zimtok · February 26, 2009, 05:46:45 AM

Pulling it out will be the best solution so you can inspect what is causing the binding, but if you keep putting penetrating oil in and working it back and forth it may suffice for the short term.

Most cables will have a common "Trouble Spot" usually back by the engine where they can get hot. The engine heat will burn away the lubrication and then the cable inside will start to rust/fray/break.

.

Len Silva · February 26, 2009, 06:02:10 AM

John,
I pulled the cable on my 4104 and didn't find it to be that big a job. Unless you pull it and find that the tube is damaged, then you are just screwed

I would disconnect the cable at the front and pull it from the rear. Coil it up in a clean bucket and wash it with solvent. Flush the tube with WD or diesel and blow it out good. I would then use white lithium grease in a spray can with a tube and grease the entire cable as you put it back in.

busshawg · February 26, 2009, 06:56:20 AM

Another place to lube or clean is right at the peddle, or so I found. My peddle wasn't coming all the way back to engage the jakes. First thought it was a jake problem. I lubed and cleaned but ended up putting a new pin in the peddle.

Grant

Sojourner · February 26, 2009, 08:12:13 AM

About lubing dried cable but not rusted & froze tight....
1)   Disconnect one of the cable end
2)   Remover cable's housing or casing from the mounting bracket
3)   Slip over cable end and casing's end with short high pressure fuel (long enough to over extended cable wire & end plus 4 inch.
4)   Clamp one hose end over 1" or more of casing
5)   Clamp the other hose end over pipe nipple about same size as casing OD and 3" long with at least one threaded end out in the open
6)   Screw on a coupling or adapter with a grease jerk or fitting.
7)   Hand pump thin grade graphite grease slowly with caution to not to burst the hose until you see grease appear at the other end. Use thin grease that not effect with the cold climate.

It works for me.

You may have a bigger bulky end that is much larger the casing OD. If you have this case....please post a photo of the end...I can suggest what you can use.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald

John Z · February 26, 2009, 08:13:39 AM

Don't be afraid to pull the cable out. If there is something that makes it difficult to reinsert, that needs to be addressed anyway. Its a lot easier and cheaper to work on that in the driveway than it is on the side of the road miles from home. I have had the cable out several times on my 4104 to clean. It gets a little better each time, but still needs some work.

BG6 · February 26, 2009, 08:50:45 AM

How does it feel when you work the pedal? Is it just sticky, or do you feel any kind of mechanical bind, catch, etc?

If the cable is frayed or has gouged into the housing, you need to replace it before it degrades enough to bind in place. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell if the problem is the cable or the housing, except by pulling the cable, cleaning it and inspecting it inch-by-inch. Keep track of which end was to the pedal, and when you put the cable back in, REVERSE it, so that wear points will be moved around.

What I did on my 4903 was put in a Teleflex "Extreme" push-pull cable. It cost about $125 and an hour or so of work, and now it as smooth as glass and will never go south on me. These are the same cables we use on experimental aircraft.

johns4104s · February 26, 2009, 09:22:57 AM

BG 6,

The pedal was moving up and down but the rpm never changed. But afer I went to the rear, sprayed liquid penetrant on all the exposed conections and a little ( cause it was very tight) in were the cable came out of the sheath. After doing this and pulling and pushing it freed up. Then the front pedal worked. But it was slow coming off the reves like the cable was still binding a little.

John

Dreamscape · February 26, 2009, 12:05:34 PM

John, Sounds like you ought take the advice from above and pull it out, inspect and be careful. Don't want to stick yourself with some frayed wire.

Good Luck,

~Paul~

luvrbus · February 26, 2009, 12:18:25 PM

Oh the joy of a air throttle.

good luck

gus · February 26, 2009, 05:14:09 PM

BG6,

What is a push/pull cable?? Do you mean a sheathed cable?

BG6 · February 26, 2009, 08:29:12 PM

Quote from: gus on February 26, 2009, 05:14:09 PM
BG6,

What is a push/pull cable?? Do you mean a sheathed cable?

A push-pull cable is one which (wait for it ) can be pulled and pushed. Most cables are designed only to actuate by pulling from one end (pull from the throttle end), then recover by pulling from the other end (return spring). A Teleflex cable is designed to actuate in both directions from a single end.

BG6 · February 26, 2009, 08:34:43 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on February 26, 2009, 12:18:25 PM
Oh the joy of a air throttle.

Air throttles are slow.

Sojourner · February 26, 2009, 08:44:27 PM

I forgot add this to my previous post.

Look at what is coming out of the other end beside grease. If moisture there & rust color grease...you may have leaking casing or housing to let moisture in. If you happen to have bad casing some where hidden...you pull the cable out...you may never able to fully push back in all the way due to internal rust some where along the casing.

Do what ever you choose. It about learning experience that you gain.

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald