Big changes to the Big Western trip route.

[Barn Owl]

Better to start a new post and reference the old one. Because of the advice I have been given I have changed my route. I am not going to do southern Utah this time because my brother lives there and I will need something to do the next time I go out there. Also many have recommended that a more northern route up California would be more enjoyable. I have heard from several that some of the passes I want to use could still be closed during the time I will be there. I will have to see how that plays out the closer I get to those parts and adjust accordingly. I have called Yosemite National Park and have been told that Tioga pass (that link has some great photos) has only 50% of the normal snow fall for this time of year. At least at the moment that is working in my favor. I will also at some future date post small side trips that have been recommended if we are making good time. I plan on a drive through Death Valley and will try to do it early in the morning to keep from baking. Are there any good inexpensive or free overnight spots near that area to stage a crossing? Keep in mind that I am trying to do as much as I can for free. Has anyone seen the Sumpter Dredge? I think that would be a neat stop. What about my route above San Francisco to Harris Beach State Park: Brookings, Oregon? I still would like to at least look at Crater Lake even if I don't drive around it. Let me know what your thoughts are and if there is anything or anyplace I am overlooking.

The first post: Big Western Trip – I need feedback and advice.

New changes:

1. Grand Canyon National Park to Brooking OR

2. Brooking, OR to Provo, UT

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Can't tell you anything about San Francisco or north as it has been 42 years since i did that in a car. However last spring we came across 299 from Redding to Arcata and then north to Brookings.....side note, there was a scenecruiser or a buffalo in a yard along 299 not too far from Arcata. Anyway, We stayed just outside Orick  at the Red School House Rv park and had about 100 elk walking around the bus at daylight. The Redwoods are right there too.

In Brookings we stayed about a mile up the south side of the river at an rv park. Another mile or two farther upstream is a really nice golf course. If i remember right Harris state park is on the north side of the river about 7-8 miles up.  There are a couple of rv parks at the harbor, one is right next to the water.

The drive up the Oregon coast from Brookings is really nice, one other place we stayed was at Beverly Beach state park, we were in the lower part of the park by the hiway and had about a 100 yard walk to the beach.

In 04 we were visiting family in Bend Or. and left the bus there and went to Sumpter for a couple of days.  The dredge is well worth seeing. The town only has about 200 people there most of the year but 3 times a year, ( memorial day, 4th of July, and labor day,) they have a big swapmeet/flea market and there are 3-4 thousand people there.  Two years ago we were in the area again at memorial day and passed thru......the change from before was amazing.

That part of Oregon is very pretty but you have several passes to go over, got your Mountain Directory yet?

[Barn Owl]

Ed,

I think I would like to camp on the beach and you are the second person to mention that there is a campground right on the ocean. I need to find out more about it. I am going to get a mountain directory and they have free shipping to the end of February.

Laryn

[gus]

Last mid-April we tried to go to Crater Lake via US97 from Weed, CA but had to head down out of the mountains to Eugene, OR because of ice, snow and very cold weather. We plan to try it again this year but a month or so later. US97 is a nice two lane (mostly) scenic drive with very little traffic.

One thrilling drive is US199 from Crescent City, CA to Grants Pass, OR. It is very narrow, lined with huge Redwoods and rocks and one lane in some spots. I wouldn't recommend it for any high or over 35' buses but the Smith River scenery is fantastic. As great as it was I won't be doing it again!

Anywhere in the western mountains up through May can bring some winter surprises.
I once sat in a motel through a three day blizzard in Sheridan, WY on 27 Sept after flying all day in beautiful warm Fall weather.

[Sean]

... I plan on a drive through Death Valley and will try to do it early in the morning to keep from baking.

Well, you could start in the early morning.  But from Death Valley Junction to Olancha, about the shortest route "through" the park, is a good four hours, and that's if you make no stops.  You'll want to divert down to Badwater (or come in past it from the south), and at least stop at Furnace Creek.  I would figure a minimum of one full day in the park.

The park service campground at Furnace Creek is very nice, if you want to spend the night, but no hookups.  Hookups are available at the concessionaire-operated campground at Stovepipe Wells.

If you come in via the route you show, you'll miss all of that.  You'll also miss Scotty's Castle.  I suggest coming west out of Death Valley Junction instead.  You won't miss anything in Beatty.  About the only point of interest on this route is the ghost town of Rhyolite. Otherwise, at least continue north out of Beatty and come in past Scotty's.

Are there any good inexpensive or free overnight spots near that area to stage a crossing?

No bus-accessible free camping in the park.  However, plenty in the desert to the east.  There is also a boondocking lot across from the Amargosa Opera House at Death Valley Junction where they want, I think, $5 to spend the night.  If you come in from the south, out of Baker, there are several spots in town there as well: http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com/2008/02/eclipsed.html

Lastly, if you come through Pahrump, some casinos there have free overnight parking.  Again, check the blog.

What about my route above San Francisco to Harris Beach State Park: Brookings, Oregon?

Your route to Brookings looks fine.  Leave plenty of time for the southernmost section of 1, just north of the gate.

I still would like to at least look at Crater Lake even if I don't drive around it. Let me know what your thoughts are and if there is anything or anyplace I am overlooking.

That's an open question.  Only you know best what you want to see.

No reason not to do Crater Lake, unless the road is closed.

The way you are coming into Salt Lake, it would be a nice side trip to Promontory and the Golden Spike National Monument.

Also, the route you are showing to Bodie is inaccessible by bus.  You need to go further north on 395 and turn right on 270.  The last several miles of 270 is dirt.

Again, we've done most of your route at one time or other, so check the blog for where we stayed -- lots of free or cheap spots along your route.

-Sean
http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com

[TomC]

I've driven 199 from Crescent city to Brookings, Or many times in my 18 wheeler-so it is a nice drive in a bus.  299 is also a truck route, but also a heavy drive, but through very scenic country.  '
Highly recommend what Sean said about Death Valley.  You've got to see Scotty's castle. Good Luck, TomC

[Lee Bradley]

As long as you are going to Brookings, keep going north you can't go east from Brookings. The Oregon coast has some of the best views on the west coast plus a collection of beautiful bridges built in the 20s and 30s to build 101 up the coast. 'One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest' fishing trip was filmed at Depoe Bay (a lot whale watching trips out of there) the house from 'Sometimes a Great Notion' is just off 101, Howard Hugh's Spruce Goose is in a purpose built museum in McMinnville and Tillamook has a good WWII aircraft museum inside a WWII blimp hanger (one of the biggest wood buildings in the world) plus a great tour of the Tillamook Cheese plant. From there you could go up the Columbia River gorge (home of some of the highest waterfalls in North America) turn south on 97 to climb onto Oregon's high desert and Bend home of the best beer in the country IMHO and the High Desert Museum and Rafter Recovery Center from there you can continue to Crater Lake from the north a much easier climb than from the south

[oldbird]

There is a fee for Death Valley (if you have a US Golden Eagle Pass it's 1/2 price) also if your going to stay at California State Parks during your trip, you may want to make reservations. During the busy season many along the ocean and high tourist areas are full. (Reservations can be made online).

[gus]

TomC,

I don't think you ever drove US199 in an 18 wheeler, I'm not even sure you could make it unless you had a 42' or shorter trailer. If you did you would have a few scrapes!1

From CC to Brookings is US 101, a far different story, a very decent highway.

However, US101 from Newport,OR to Astoria,OR is one of the worst roads, surface wise, I have ever driven.

[Barn Owl]

Dang it! I wanted to get home early tonight (2300hrs not 0130hrs) and spend some time going over the comments, Sean's blog, and I have more questions that will just have to wait. But I would like some clarification on one comment:

Your route to Brookings looks fine.  Leave plenty of time for the southernmost section of 1, just north of the gate.

Is that because it is just slow going or there is just so much to see? How many miles of the southern most section of 1 are we talking about? I am toying with the idea of skipping 1 and going up 101 further north into Oregan as I get feedback from those who have been up that far. I will post a map later to clarify what I am talking about.

Thanks

[TomC]

Well Gus, believe what you want, but I have driven 199 from Grants Pass to Crescent City at least twice that I can remember-and with my 48ft trailer with 235" wheelbase tractor, was 68ft overall.  199 is NOT the worst highway I've ever been on-in fact it didn't even occur to me as being a bad highway-I do remember it as being very scenic though.  When you're with one of the Van Lines and doing furniture moving, you have to sometimes drive on non truck routes-and the Highway Patrol understands that.  Probably one of the few trucking methods that they more or less turn their heads when they see a big moving van in a residential or non truck route-as long as you don't get stuck-and in 21 years, never had a scrape on my trailer because of narrow roads (that's not saying that I didn't at times take up the entire road on narrow 2 laners).  Good Luck, TomC

[H3Jim]

I found crater lake campground to be very crowded and commercial.  I tend to like to get away from the crowd a bit.  I found a campground nearby that is isolated, $5 self pay, no utilities at all except firepits.  The nearby stream was gorgeous as the water was volcanically heated.  The blues and greens weres stunning.  The only downside was the mosquitos there could fly faster than I could walk and were the size of small birds.  My coach has good screens, and not going outside at dawn or dusk greatly reduced the issue.

The name of the campground is Jackson F Kimball state Park, and is accessed from route 62, and a small pretty side road - county road 624.  There was a small sign indicating the turn.  two more lefts with signage (Sun Mountain road) and you are in the park.  Its small and when I went through, deserted.

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Looks like my kind of place, will have to go there next time we are in the area. Thanks for sharing.

[Sean]

Laryn,

Sorry for the delay. I am in HI w/o a computer, so quick answer here from my Blackberry.

CA-1 is very narrow, twisty, and steep from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach. You can do it in your bus, no problem, but figure on 25 MPH for that stretch.

-Sean

[gus]

TomC,

I believe you!

You said you drove 199 from CC to Brookings! US199 doesn't go to Brookings that is what I tried to say to pull your leg a bit!

If you drove to GP from CC I take my hat off to you. I don't see you made it around those one lane curves between the Redwoods and rocks!! My wife covered her eyes in a couple of those spots.

That may be the only place I ever saw two lanes narrow down to one lane with no center line.