Hot In Wyoming: Need Opinion

[busboy]

OK guys and gals, we are 2 months into our trip, travelling in Wyoming and I can't keep the bus cool.  I have listened to everones advice and I have plugged where air would go around the radiator, I have installed a mister system, I downshift the Allison on the hills to keep the 8V71 against the governer, I leave the generator off all day(it's plumbed into the bus radiator), then I pull over to the shoulder to let her cool off.  I'm thinking of having an oversized radiator put in.  What do y'all think?  The tentative plan is to head toward Colorado Springs, then on to the Texas Panhandle, then Lake Texoma(Dennison/Sherman, Texas).  Are there any radiator/bus guys anywhere along our route?
Happy Trails,
Brent
84 Eagle 10
8V71, 740 Allison

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hello Busboy,

I feel for ya!  Sounds like the oversized radiator is the way to go....

Good Luck!
Nick-

[busguy01]

Don't know what kind of a set up you have BUT if it has a water to oil trans cooler you MAY want to change it to a air to oil unit. Also -- is trans slipping at all?? Just a thought.
JimH

[Moof]

How about a stuck thermostat, or plugged radiator?

[ChuckMC8]

Brent, If the bus has the original cooling configuration (same type and size radiator, shroud, fan, etc) It should cool if these components  are 100%.  I know that you are on the road. I thnk you are taking the right approcah, find a good radiator shop. When you find one close enough to get to, have the radiator removed and rodded out (I think thats what the proceedure is called) anyway, vatted and such and reinstall, put in fresh coolant and I'd bet your cooling issues will be solved.

[Geoff]

Take off the misters and put in Rain Bird adjustable sprayers (hardware garden department) so you drench the radiator with water.  Works for me.

--Geoff

[Barn Owl]

Put the largest radiator you can get in it. The previous owner of my bus installed an auto with an oil to water cooler and had heating problems. Went from a four core to a seven core radiator and now, no matter how hard the pull, I do not have a problem.

[TomC]

If the bus was retrofitted with an automatic and the radiator was not increased, could be your problem.  Just as an example, my radiator is 40"w x 33"h for a surface area of 1,320cu in.  It is a copper/brass radiator with 5 rows of tubes and was equipped with an Allison from the factory with the radiator tube cooler.  How does that compare to what you have?  Also, is the fan locked and running with the engine?  Good Luck, TomC

[busboy]

It looks like my radiator is the one that originally came in the bus.  Anybody have a favorite bus/radiator shop that could fix me up?  We are in Rawlins, Wyoming  heading to Colorado Springs over the next few days.  Any shops in the Cheyanne, WY or Denver areas?  Thanks for the opinions!
Happy Trails,
Brent

[Kristinsgrandpa]

In my notes that I have gleaned off the BB's I have 6 radiator shops listed. Apparently they were recommended by somone on one of the boards.

The only one I have for Texas just says Texas, no city but I have a phone No.

Atlas Radiator  361-882-5661.   I realize Texas is fairly large so I hope this is of some value to you.

You might find someone to flush it, without a removal, if they don't have the facilities to rod it.

If you clean the outside yourself use Castrol Super Clean if you can find it it will remove everything, including paint, if you leave it on long enough.

I had some in a household cleaner spray bottle and it leaked onto my welder. It ate the paint off the welder.

[rv_safetyman]

I had Denver Radiator redo the radiator in my 85 Eagle 10.  It turned out that the fins were loose on the tube.  The new core we put in had the latest tube and fin technology that is supposed to be good for a significant cooling improvement.  I did not get a chance to test it much with the 6V92, but it sure cools the Series 60 very well.  I am not sure that is saying much, since the four strokes cool much better, but I am putting 475 HP through the unit.

The folks there seem to really know what they are doing and were good to work with.  The job cost about $1200 as I recall.  They are located at 5501 Pearl (303-297-0355).  That address is close to the 58th exit on I25.

[skihor]

I'll second Denver Radiator. They do a good portion of the Denver city busses as well as lots of big rig semi's and stuff. They built my Rads and also have done some custom stuff for me. Reasonably priced and all around good people. Ask for Matt. I think if you need a new rad in a bad way he could fix up new ones while you are in the Springs. You would have to take it by for him to see what you need.  I don't think they  do remove and replace labor though. They might let you park out back to do it yourself. Just have to ask. If not I'm sure he could reccomend someone. I'd help you out but we are leaving for 10 days on tuesday eve.

[Clarke Echols]

Denver Radiator has done a lot of radiators for DD systems.  Also Stewart & Stevenson is located
on the NE side of the intersection of I-225 and Vasquez.  Take I-25 south, get off on the inside
lanes at the I-225/I-76/I-25 interchange.  The flyover takes you onto I-225.  It's about 3 miles or
so from there.  Exit the second exit at Vasquez Blvd for northbound Vasquez.  S&S is on the
right after you pass the exit ramp coming down to the west from westbound I-225.  Take
the right turn, and the bus shops are on the right as you proceed east on the street along
the north side of their building.  They could probably tell you in moments whether you need
a bigger radiator.  Denver Radiator does a lot of their work too.

Clarke

[busboy]

Thanks guys!  I'm going to Stewart & Stevenson in a couple of days...they said they use Denver Radiator for all their work.  I talked to a guy named Harvey who said they have a guy named Craig Ingram who is a 30 year bus veteran.  Hopefully they can get me fixed up.
Happy Trails,
Brent

[rv_safetyman]

Brent, be sure to keep us posted. 

As you saw, there are several folks in the Denver area who can be of help if you have further problems.