Recycle rubber-sound barrier-ideas?
 

Recycle rubber-sound barrier-ideas?

Started by grantgoold, December 24, 2008, 03:08:28 PM

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grantgoold

Folks, I was at a western feed store today (Practical Christmas gifts!) and came across a super dense rubber mat used in horse trailers. The recycle material was very inexpensive for the amount of material provided and made from tires. It was heavy and solid. It seems like it might be a good option for sound deadening efforts.

Anyone with an opinion?

Stuff comes from www.redbarnmats.com

Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California

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grantgoold

I too am concerned about the fire issue. I have sent an email to the company to see if I can get the technical data sheet that will give me all the important details.

We will see.

Thanks

Grant
Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California

JackConrad

Not sure, but I would guess that the density & thickness might determine how much of the sound waves (and which frequencies) will pass through it and which will absorbed.  Jack
Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
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Hartley

It works great for places you need sound isolation and vibration isolation.

I make up generator mounts out of it and a 400 lb generator floats on the stuff quite nicely.

As for the fire question. It is the same as rubber so expecting it to handle 800 degree exhaust pipes may not be a good idea. As to catching fire. No more so than your tires, radiator hoses or much else.

It does burn like tires however, But if you have things get that hot you are either dead, suffocated or well away by that time, Probably overcome by the smoke from your "corian" plastic countertops or fiberglass stuff....

Dave....
Never take a knife to a gunfight!

grantgoold

So do you support the use? Dr. Dave? I was thinking about using the rubber against the bay walls and ceiling and then use some more thermal resistant materials for the inside lining?

What do you think?

Thanks

Grant
Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California

Hartley

Uh.. Well Yes it will work for deadening the sound and vibration. As to which type to use. There are several thickness of the rubber material available, Usually from 3/8 to 1 inch. There is also a poly-liner version that is available in 1/4 to 3/8 inch.

The tough part will be in attaching the heavy sheets to the walls or ceiling of the bays. You generally have to use the slit-bend & cut techniques to cut the stuff or use a sawzall or sabre saw. So working with it will take some practice.

In a generator box I would suggest placing a foil based fire barrier over the rubber surface for safety, It could be glued on using insta-grab weatherproof glue or some other heat tolerant adhesives.

Mine has a plywood layer topped with the rubber sheet and covered by some of the leaded vinyl material. ( Only because I had some from another project ).

The rubber is glued and screwed to the plywood and the vinyl is screwed to the other layers. ( The vinyl sucks and gets droopy in hot weather. ).

As for any fire hazzard, Your fuel and electrical wiring is way more flammable. Having plenty of room around things like cables and exhaust pipes is the only way to be sure to avoid igniting the rubber material accidentally.

I have used it as floor mats around the shop and throw mats when laying on the ground and welding without any problems. Even hot slag just sits and sizzles a little but has not been a fire problem.

Check with just about any of the horse trailer places and they can find just about any size of the mat that you might need.

Dave....
Never take a knife to a gunfight!

JohnEd

I would use the 1 inch thick stuff on the floor of the gen bay.  Adhesion is not an issue but I have found that contact cement works well and you can set it up wet on a floor.  3M weather strip is works great also.

For the walls I would glue the rubber to a plywood sheet that was premeasured and cut for the wall being covered.  Either both sides or one side.  Installing the ceiling and then installing the sides will support the ceiling with the wall overlap.  You might consider 1 inch on the ceiling but use 1 inch ply to support the center span.  I would install 1 in square stock wood and nail and tack it to the inside corners.

If you screw this stuff in place the screws will conduct the noise thru the material to the wall behind and defeat part of your soundproofing.

John
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