Tools for Tire and brake removal-making a list
 

Tools for Tire and brake removal-making a list

Started by grantgoold, October 19, 2008, 02:49:32 PM

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grantgoold

I am looking at getting a list together of all tools and size of airgun used to remove rims/tires and brake on my bus. The vacationing Gumpy has some listed but I would like a more comprehensive list to submit to Santa.

What do you use?

Thanks

Grant
Grant Goold
1984 MCI 9
Way in Over My Head!
Citrus Heights, California

kyle4501

cell phone  ;D



Torque multiplier
Air operated bottle jack
plenty of good cribbing

Wheaties & spinach

Advil
whiskey ;)
Life is all about finding people who are your kind of crazy

Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please (Mark Twain)

Education costs money.  But then so does ignorance. (Sir Claus Moser)

PP

Quote from: kyle4501 on October 19, 2008, 05:50:45 PM
cell phone  ;D



Torque multiplier
Air operated bottle jack
plenty of good cribbing

Wheaties & spinach

Advil
whiskey ;)

Rum (lots and lots) ;D

HB of CJ

Gosh..I'm really getting old here.  AUGHHHH!  Let's see, properly sized small floor jack, jack stands, breaking bar, (a LONG 'un) sockets, (right size) adequate torque mulitiplier, (or a workable air wrench thing...if possible)

Adequate cribbing, chocks, canvas bag for lug nuts, road flares, portable BIG light, road triangles, heavy leather gloves, a good spare tire, (almost forgot THAT one) a short stool, big torque wrench. (kinda optional)

Also will need FOR ME like already said, "10" (mg) of "whats that stuff called," (tranks) lots and lots of rum, two (2) 750 mg Vicodin, (taken before for after) pelvic traction device, a hospital bed, (for after) and...COURAGE!.

Yeah...just joking and picking fun at myself.  Actually a valid Good Sam or AAA card plus $500 in cash money and a working cell, CB, 2 meter Ham, E-mail, tin cans with string.  VALIUM... that's it! He he he. HB of CJ  :) :) :)

buswarrior

If you are pulling the brake drum off, you need the large axle nut socket, and the tool for seating the new axle seals. And the sheet of tin to slide the duals on, and a suitable catch container that fits under the axle end when you break the seal and the oil pours out.

Yes, a suitable quantity of liquour for the participants.

And if you are really clever, teenagers to "learn" while you "teach" the heavier bits. Co-ed works really well for this...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

Tony LEE

And - if you are on the road - don't forget to fire up the HWS so you can have a hot soothing shower afterwards.

Lee Bradley

I use a pair of 3 foot bars for lifting the wheel onto the studs and rotating the wheel to match the studs.

kyle4501

That sounds lots easier than what I did. . . .
Life is all about finding people who are your kind of crazy

Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please (Mark Twain)

Education costs money.  But then so does ignorance. (Sir Claus Moser)

Ncbob

Buswarrior,  you're among the last guys I'd want to disagree with but it's not necessary to pull the hub to remove the drum, at least on MCI's. Perhaps you other guys have problems we don't have.

Bob

PP

Quote from: Lee Bradley on October 21, 2008, 10:01:34 AM
I use a pair of 3 foot bars for lifting the wheel onto the studs and rotating the wheel to match the studs.

I just learned something new and useful today. Thanks a bunch, Lee.  ;D ;D Will

Sojourner

Quote from: NCbob on October 21, 2008, 02:16:50 PM
Buswarrior,  you're among the last guys I'd want to disagree with but it's not necessary to pull the hub to remove the drum, at least on MCI's. Perhaps you other guys have problems we don't have.

Bob
Your right however, it better for lathe turning and always truer by not disrupt the alignment & centered in relation to the hub after it been previously turned.

For speedy removal of brake drum to service brakes and inspect hub bearing/seals is to do what buswarrior posted.

A little dab of grease on tin surface....lowered axle until weight of dual on tin and out come the dual cleared the hub's spindle. Even a lady can handle it. I handle many over loaded cement trucks bearing jobs...they last about 3 months.

Only time to remove & tighten lug nuts is if you need to service tire and/or rim.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
http://dalesdesigns.net/names.htm
Ps 28 Blessed be the LORD, because he hath heard the voice of my supplications. The LORD is my strength and my shield; my heart trusted in him, and I am helped: therefore my heart greatly rejoiceth; and with my song will I praise him

NJT5047

All excellent answers...especially the rum...
As one that changes my own tires, and have some very recent history with a blown rear inner drive tire, be sure that any air hose connections will actually flow air in the direction you are expecting.   ???
I went to top up my spare, which had 80 some lbs, and the airline which was attached to the port that I air up the bus with shop air, has a check valve in the system and guess what!  No air.  BUMMER!
I ended up airing it up from a Bluebird! 
One other item that I usually keep on the bus is related to cribbing, but it's a 12" square piece of steel plate to set the jack on.  Weld a handle onto the sucker or you won't be able to pick it up easily. 
Most parking lot substrates will cave in with a bottle jack.  The plate will make it much more safe.   Never get beneath a bus sitting on bottle jacks.
If you have leveling control, use the leveler to bring up the height so you don't have to jack so much.  Then exhaust the air on the affected axle side and you're jacked up.  Once the chassis jack point is set, a small bottle jack under the axle (with airbag unloaded) will allow easy jacking of the wheels. Obviously, Eagle owners without leveling systems will work a little harder.. ;)
Run-up blocks are great for outer dual failures. 
Be sure that whatever jacks you use will go under the front jack points if you have a flat steer tire. 
Don't  jack the tire off the ground...just get it light.  That way you won't have to 'lift' it back onto the hub.  You can 'walk' it on. 
Watch wheels that you are moving around...they'll get away from you.  Steel wheels are heavy. 
Be careful with alloy spares.  You may not have enough stud length on the drive axles for two alloys.
I use a torque multiplier to loosen and tighten the lugs.  A 1/2" air wrench will easily remove the loosened lugs.  I use a ratchet. 
Budd wheel drive axle lug systems are a PITA.   ;)   I have hub piloted wheels... ;D
My last best advice...Good Sam's Road Service.  If you have time to wait. 
It took me an hour plus to change an inner dual on my MC9.  Hard work.   
I'd recommend removing and verifying that the lugs are properly torqued and just verify that you have everything functioning as you'll invariably need.
A tag axle wheel assy can serve as a spare.  Carry chains to chain up the tag axle.  Keep speed under 45 per MCI. 
Pulling brake drums that have been on the bus for a while is going to be a major PITA.  MCIs have large straight slot screws that retain the drums.   A cold chisel might ideal for knocking them out..and a fire wrench.  Repairing brakes on the road should be avoided thru PM.   
JR


JR Lynch , Charlotte, NC
87 MC9, 6V92TA DDEC, HT748R ATEC

"Every government interference in the economy consists of giving an unearned benefit, extorted by force, to some men at the expense of others."

Ayn Rand