Hello all,
I am in Albuquerque for about 10 days and am thinking about removing some of the heavier components to the over the road heating system since the scrap prices here are better than in Santa Fe.
I understand that when I remove that giant heat exchanger I just cap off the pipe ends. Here is my question: If I remove the heat exchanger and don't get to capping off the pipes for some unknown unexpected reason. Can I drive it as long as I don't open the valves in the engine bay?
I think that would be fine, but wanted to double check if my understanding is right.
Thanks a million.
Seb
Yes, keep valves closed. Save antifreeze for engine add.
I don't think there are valves on Espar heat ,if you plug the lines and don't tie the defroster back in you are not going to have a defroster when you need it to melt the snow in Albuquerque lol that is a spring or summer time job,that exchanger doesn't weigh much anyways, and you will miss it in cold weather driving
Maybe he is thinking about ac condenser.
If those valves don't close completely you will be faced with a constant low coolant situation. some times those valves are either stuck open/closed regardless whether the wheel/lever moves freely, you won't know till you cut a line loose. Seems like the wrong time of the year to be doing this whether it works or not in a 10 day time frame. You must be desperate for more storage space or fuel $$ lol!
Quote from: chessie4905 on November 29, 2022, 07:38:37 AM
Yes, keep valves closed. Save antifreeze for engine add.
Yup, I figured I'd try to capture ad much of the coolant as possible.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Seb
Quote from: Van on November 29, 2022, 09:53:27 AM
If those valves don't close completely you will be faced with a constant low coolant situation. some times those valves are either stuck open/closed regardless whether the wheel/lever moves freely, you won't know till you cut a line loose. Seems like the wrong time of the year to be doing this whether it works or not in a 10 day time frame. You must be desperate for more storage space or fuel $$ lol!
No, not desperate for either. Just thought it was something I could do here. Maybe I will wait to do it in Santa Fe where we will be parked for a few months to play it safer.
Thanks
Seb
Quote from: Sebulba on November 29, 2022, 12:22:47 PM
Yup, I figured I'd try to capture ad much of the coolant as possible.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Seb
I would not worry about reusing the coolant unless you have some background on what type or when it was change last, the series 60 is very touchy about coolant type and changing, 5 years is about the life span of antifreeze in a series 60 if it has been tested and more chemicals added
need something to do? grab a buffer and start shining up the SS. That'll keep you busy and warm
Quote from: luvrbus on November 29, 2022, 01:10:06 PM
I would not worry about reusing the coolant unless you have some background on what type or when it was change last, the series 60 is very touchy about coolant type and changing, 5 years is about the life span of antifreeze in a series 60 if it has been tested and more chemicals added
Hmmm, ok I will just capture for "Environmental" purposes only.
Thanks
Seb
Quote from: windtrader on November 29, 2022, 06:18:05 PM
need something to do? grab a buffer and start shining up the SS. That'll keep you busy and warm
It sure isn't hat I have nothing to do. I just work on what I can when I can.
Seb
Hello All,
Since I have your attention here and many have already accomplished this task. I remember that I should sweat copper caps on the lines that go to the heat exchanger. Does anyone recall what size caps I should get.
And while I am on the subject, would a handheld propane torch be enough to sweat those, since they are so big? I have sweated a lot 1/2 inch and up to maybe an inch copper but never bigger, so just trying to anticipate anything I might be missing.
Thanks
Seb
If it is like most MCI those are HVAC size different from the standard pipe fittings, propane torches will work with Mapp gas.You can buy a torch they use on steak for 25 to 30 bucks they will heat the copper in a hurry @ 2500 degrees and work with small propane bottles, I carry one with me in the RV,Amazon has a selection of food torches
Quote from: luvrbus on November 29, 2022, 06:51:52 PM
If it is like most MCI those are HVAC size different from the standard pipe fittings, propane torches will work with Mapp gas.You can buy a torch they use on steak for 25 to 30 bucks they will heat the copper in a hurry @ 2500 degrees and work with small propane bottles, I carry one with me in the RV,Amazon has a selection of food torches
Oh brother, not pipe size but HVAC size. I suppose if I get into the bay I can get a caliper on it and get the size and hopefully find the right size BEFORE tearing it apart.
So, I should use MAPP gas to get a little more heat, OK,
Thanks
Seb
Not really that confusing. Plumbing is ID (inside diameter) and HVAC is OD (outside diameter) 3/4 plumbing is 7/8 HVAC. If you are in albuquerque I can get you the supply houses that will have what you need if you want.
Good luck and safe travels
Melbo
For now you could loop some 1" radiator hose with double clamps. Only talking maybe 15 psi.
Quote from: chessie4905 on November 30, 2022, 06:10:42 AM
For now you could loop some 1" radiator hose with double clamps. Only talking maybe 15 psi.
Hmmm, good work around.
Is it only 1 inch pipe? I haven't looked in there in several months, but I thought maybe it was more like 2 inch.
Thanks
You should measure with calipers. If likely larger than one inch, may need to use a straight section of straight hose. Lowes and HD sell reinforced clear thick wall tubing. Would need to check it specs as to how well it handles hot coolant..
Quote from: chessie4905 on November 30, 2022, 09:03:50 AM
You should measure with calipers. If likely larger than one inch, may need to use a straight section of straight hose. Lowes and HD sell reinforced clear thick wall tubing. Would need to check it specs as to how well it handles hot coolant..
On Tom Vanozzi's {LVMCI) bus that is exactly what we did @ B&B, a section of that clear reinforced hose with a plug in the end. When removing ours I used the same hose to reconnect the drivers heat via the circulation pump. That hose holds up well to the heat.
Quote from: chessie4905 on November 30, 2022, 09:03:50 AM
You should measure with calipers. If likely larger than one inch, may need to use a straight section of straight hose. Lowes and HD sell reinforced clear thick wall tubing. Would need to check it specs as to how well it handles hot coolant..
Makes sense. Better to just cap though.
Thanks
Seb
Quote from: Van on November 30, 2022, 10:06:25 AM
On Tom Vanozzi's {LVMCI) bus that is exactly what we did @ B&B, a section of that clear reinforced hose with a plug in the end. When removing ours I used the same hose to reconnect the drivers heat via the circulation pump. That hose holds up well to the heat.
Ok, thanks for that, Van.
Seb
There are different grades of that type of hose some won't stand up to much heat or pressure BTDT on my Aqua Hot, that I bought from H/D it lasted till the water got hot
Quote from: luvrbus on November 30, 2022, 10:58:35 AM
There are different grades of that type of hose some won't stand up to much heat or pressure BTDT on my Aqua Hot, that I bought from H/D it lasted till the water got hot
Ahhaa, that could be bad.
Thanks
Seb
LOL I went cheap buy the good stuff
Most of that stuff is vinyl and will not handle boiling water. Should be a grade of silicon hose though, check McMasterCarr.
Jim
Well, I got it all removed. Not too bad a job, took me about 3 hours and got $200 for the scrap
All I need to do now is cap off the ends. I have 2 barbed plugs coming from Grainger to do that. The hose is very playable and definitely not original to the bus, so I feel comfortable jerking those short pieces of his and plugging them.
Now I need to decide what the best use of this space is.🤔
Thanks for all your help.
Seb