1980 MCI 9 with ugly steel rims with crappy paint. 22.5 I can get good used al rims for $150.00 but would have to polish them. Then I would have transfer my tires on to the rims. Now here is my question. What about Wheel simulators? Are they any good? Do they stay on? Which ones are good? Which ones should I stay away from ?
Thanks RED
This one is a personal choice. I spend a lot of time in salty air conditions (coast) where even stainless rusts if not maintained. As I write this I'm looking at 2 RVs with the snap in place chromed steel simulators and they're both showing surface rust. If it's a matter of budget, go simulator. Otherwise my preference would be the aluminum rims. I know, bigger hassle-gotta get those tires off and back on and a lot more money. But you asked. ;D
Will
I forgot to mention, if you go with the al rims, don't forget the lug nuts might be different and you'll definitely need nut covers. ;)
I used ss simulators on my truck and after 10 years were just as good as new. And Im on the west coast.
I has stainless simulators put on and still looking very bright and shinny after 10 years. With aluminum wheels you may have to add longer studs which from previous BCM posts can get costly and time consuming if doing it yourself removing the old and pressing in the new longer studs.
Hi Red, simulators or SS hub caps are very nice, mine were easy to clean and nice looking. Pay particular attention to the installation instructions, if purchased used make sure you can get instructions somewhere.
Here's why, the simulators come with foam pads glued on the back to the wheel, wheels flex as they rotate or hit pot holes, if the flexing created a bend or kink in the simulators, they create a sound that is similar to a bearings going out, only an experienced mechanic that has seen this situation would look to the simulators first, most will pull the wheels and replace the bearings or oil, lvmci...
I have a set of stainless steel simulators that are hub centered for a two axle bus 22.5 wheel. Like new. If interested I'll put them in the Spare Tire section of this board.
I vote for the aluminum wheels. Keep in mind that you may need all new studs. You can probably find the studs cheaper but I paid 14 dollars each for all new studs for the aluminum wheels.
Powder coat your rims?
Red, pay attention to what Flynbanjo said, the rims are the cheap part. Replacing every one of your wheel studs all the way around will cost you hundreds of dollars alone so that you can install aluminum rims. I did this so I know. You absolutely cannot beat the look and lightweight aluminum Alcoa's. I can always tell immediately between simulators and actual Alcoa's which is why we spent the money on the Alcoa's. But do be ready to spend some dough on studs and then on polishing the rims every year. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180208/79c7e0ce6825b83812efc6998435b080.jpg)
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That's how I got a set of stainless steel simulators-- the owner had to have the best on his RV. I wish he would of told me before his RV got repossessed-- I would have been happy to swap his rims back to the simulators for the Alcoa's. The bank didn't care.
Thanks Scott, I forgot all about the bi-annual polishing :P
If you live in the right area, you could have them chrome plated.
I labored on this and decided since I wasn't buying new tires right now I decided to have the painter paint the wheels.
Respectfully ...
No matter what you chose, there will be some $expense$. Keeping what you have. Big hub caps. Aluminum wheels. Tires. Have you considered shopping around the big truck wrecking yards for take off wheels, studs, tires and perhaps a package deal for installation?
Sounds like your Bus Conversion runs a common tire and wheel combination. This might make it much easier finding a good set of perhaps tires, wheels, studs and installation from a big rig that does not need them. Sometimes deals can be had for everything.
But there are pitfalls using priorly owned parts. Knowledge of what you want, how much to spend and expertise to examine and determine the used parts must work. The Devil is in the details. That and finding and trusting a good installer who knows what he is doing.
Are the wheels safe? Intact. Small or other cracks. Are they even? A spin balancer and measuring is a good way to tell if the wheels are true. Age? Same with the used tires. Flat spots. Out of round. Thread life remaining. Tire age. Also with the studs and nuts.
Some big buses had oversize or unusual size wheels and tires. Be sure you understand this. Sometimes you can convert to taller wheel sizes and tires. Be sure to consider the wheel well clearances. Do you intent to run tire chains in the winter? It all makes a difference.
Do you have flange or stud mount wheels? So many things to learn up on. Easy to find all this out. Once you find what you are looking for in used stuff then it is fun bargaining for a package deal. Cash is King. You can turn an ordeal into a fun day if you smile greatly.
Make new friends. Leave with a positive experience. Perhaps even a polish job could be included with the aluminum wheels. Such would be a good idea for the close inspection process alone. Ask around the truck stops and big repair garages. Expect to have fun.
Respectfully ...
Used wheels are available for a reason...
You need the go-no go gauge for stud-pilot wheels.
The fastener contact area wears beyond acceptable parameters, that's why there's "good looking" wheels in the wrecking yard....
Accuride has a gauge for theirs, #5401 maybe?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Is power coat an option for wheels? I'm sure that the steel could be power coated, but I'm not sure if it would hold up, especially around the area that makes contact with the lug nuts? Maybe there is a special treatment they have for the area to keep it from chipping?
I've worked with a place that does really spectacular work with power coating on a few other projects, including various metallic finishes. Cost is pretty reasonable.
There's a place around here that will clean and powder coat wheels for a reasonable price. They loonce when done. I wouldn't use it if you re using your coach in winter on salted roads. One little chip in paint and it will go down I'll fast. Look at all the hitch receivers on SUVs after a couple of years. They are all poder coated. Thanks at be an extreme example, but gives you an idea. For use in other than winter weather, they hold up well. Clean and was occasionally. Our local outfit can apply just about any shade or color
Quote from: richard5933 on February 09, 2018, 04:21:10 AMIs power coat an option for wheels? ...
Back in the old days, the company I worked for used powder coating for motorcycle frames and smaller parts like steering yokes, side stands, battery boxes, etc. It worked great. I tried a nice silvery shade (not to "Calfornia chrome" looking) on the wheels of my bus. Just getting the tires installed started scratches and gouges. Within a month, I had streaks of rust -- and that's in low-salt North Carolina. Not a successful experiment in my experience.
If you have tires professionally installed nowadays, they can mount without buggering the finish with the new mounting machines. I still don't like powder coating for wheels. You can sand blast, prime and paint yourself or have a body man do it on the side after you get them ready.
I like to feel the hubs for heat when I stop during the day. You wouldn't be able to do that with simulators on.
I don't think simulators look very good, too shiny.
JC
In regards to powder coating. With 40 years of experience building air and space vehicles, I can attest you will rarely find a single part powder coated. Certainly nothing on the external envelope of the vehicle. Powder coating, contrary to popular thought is not durable enough. We use paint and/or anodize. The former is cheap and easy to repair and the latter rarely needs repair. Just saying....
When shopping for used aluminum wheels keep in mind that they also wear at the outer bead edge where it is rolls upward. They wear there because of the constant rubbing from the flexing of the casing bead edge and sidewall as the tire rolls. The outer turned up edge literally wears down in height. If the edge is sharp or has a groove worn into it beware. Each wheel manufacturer makes a go / no go contour gage that you set on the bead contact area and the top of the edge simultaneously. If the lower area of the contour gage makes full contact with the bead area / no space under it then the wheel is worn out. New aluminum wheels are the safest choice for the steer axle unless you really know what you are looking at in used wheels. Also, as mentioned, the wheels can be the cheap part if you need to change studs too.
The front studs on my Silversides are too short for aluminum wheels so I just had my steel wheels blasted and powder coated dark silver. Really looks pretty nice. Only cost me $40 each. But then I did all the tire work myself.
I know that this is slightly off topic, but still related: If any one has a really high mileage pickup with OEM aluminum wheels, you had better be checking them too at tire changes. They can also suffer from the wear issues and cracking at the bead area. Most tire stores are good at checking them when mounting tires. Ford and Dodge factory 3/4 ton wheels in the mid 2000's were good for this.
Steel wheels look good with powered coat or simulators do also, the problem is you still have the crappy 2 piece weld wheels,aluminum wheels is the way to go
Quote from: lostagain on February 09, 2018, 08:49:08 AM
I like to feel the hubs for heat when I stop during the day. You wouldn't be able to do that with simulators on.
JC
I completely forgot about that aspect. I'm anal when it comes to using my temp gun on the road. Simulators would put a real crimp in that.
Will
When it comes to using a temp gun with simulators on, I think it might be possible with the more advanced ones like the Flukes (Model 62 Max+ and up) with two laser dots that you aim at the particular spot you are trying to read. The Fluke gun reads the temperature on the surface between the two dots, therefore, if enough wheel metal shows through the simulator holes, you might get a good enough reading. Flukes are more expensive, but they are very accurate. There might be other brands that work the same way, but I doubt that the cheaper ones (like Harbor Freight) would be able to pinpoint the reading very well.
If you lean down with wheels turned one way or another, you could read the inside center of hub. Tougher on rear, but still doable.
What's not being said is the weight savings of aluminum over steel. On a drive axle that's 200lbs, on steer and tag 100lbs. So 400lbs lost-and that is what's called unsuspended weight-meaning the suspension has to overcome that weight each time the wheel deflects to push it back down to the road. Less weight-better ride.
When I changed my wheels from 22.5x9.00 steel with 12R-22.5 to 24.5x8.25 aluminum with 11R-24.5, could feel the difference. Even the mechanic said he's never been in such a smooth riding transit bus before.
Polishing? I use an aluminum polish with a sealer. My wheels have not been polished in 5 years and still look good-albeit a bit less shinny than fresh polished, but still nice. I have used Alcoa aluminum on two trucks, my bus, and now my truck. Only drawback to aluminum, don't kiss a curb-they'll crack. Good Luck, TomC
Another draw back to Alcoas is a tire monkey can destroy one the nut will go through the wheel before the stud breaks BT