I noticed in another thread that an MC-8 did not have the black rubber pads on bumpers and I was wondering if I can take mine off my MC-9?
also if anyone has done this are they glued, bolted etc and how much of a mess did it leave behind the pads? thanks
here is one I am referring to
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg1.claspics.com%2Fw8lm85c%2Fgyuffk6r%2F1329677397-893.JPG_m.jpg%3F1329687879%255D&hash=aba6801fede0dc67542d47894c62e3e097507c5d)
and here is mine
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.impaks.com%2Fimages%2Fken%2Fbus%2Fbus.jpg&hash=07ebc64e8630f216f2cb0500a056017544936da9)
Why would you want to take those very heavy duty rubber pads off? Those rubber pads are another layer of protection for your bus if you hit something or someone bumps into them. Leave them on and just put some tire black on them-they look really nice. Good Luck, TomC
If I remember correctly, they are back bolted.
Disassembly of the bumper required, corroded fasteners, more than likely they will break free of the bond in the rubber on the opposite side, giving you a lot of grief in removing.
When you rub something with the front of the coach, might make a difference in the amount of damage, and the after appearance of both the bumper and the obstacle.
But, it is your coach, do as you feel inspired!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
On my Jeep Wagoneer i had the same type of stuff on the sides, down low, to prevent door dings i guess. One day while i was out in the woods, the piece on one of the rear doors "fell" off. ;D Turns out it was just glued on, so i took it home and was going to put it back on. However for a few days i just kept looking at where it had been and where the other pieces were, and decided that the Jeep looked better without them, so i ripped the rest of them off. :)
main reason I am asking is mine pads are deformed and they look bad to me..
I like the idea of extra padding for bumpers but only if they look good..
We've been slowly removing ours. Removed all the cladding on the sides and now we're at the bumpers both front and rear. Everyone is right, the bolts are behind the bumper (lift it as if to access the spare tire). And yes, on our coach they are corroded so badly that an angle grinder with a cutting wheel is our only hope. I also agree that the coach needs the cladding/rubber gone. I plan to install some nicer looking trim later.
Here is ours currently. Waiting on a stainless polish and then we'll stick some nice looking stuff on there:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-lvtstsAvxig%2FTrGdt0WxIDI%2FAAAAAAAAE4I%2F2IeT4BbVTrw%2Fs640%2FDSC06349.JPG&hash=54b8580efdc0d0296455601e4f93b9d8192c11a1)
FWIW, that MC-8 with smooth bumpers came that way, it never had rubber covers. My 5C is the same way. Must have been different options.
Brian
Quote from: bevans6 on April 03, 2012, 03:30:52 AM
FWIW, that MC-8 with smooth bumpers came that way, it never had rubber covers. My 5C is the same way. Must have been different options.
Brian
He's right...and likely there will be gaping holes in ours from the bolt mounts when we remove them.
I had a set of chrome bumpers for my fishbowl suburban in the luggage bay and was going to exchange them for the HELP bumpers that are on the bus now, but decided to keep the sturdier bumpers. Not as pretty but may come in handy down the road.
-- Seaton
Scott, you could always mount something into the holes to cover them up. Maybe small reflectors or running lites if it is legal to do so?
I have thought about doing exactly what Scott is doing. I plan on filling the holes with stainless button headed allen bolts that would be easily polished before install. Should give it a clean look. They will be available in short lengths for clean install. Glad to see his with it removed, totally changes the look from charter to custom. I'm a hot rod guy by nature, what do you think about welding up the holes in the front bumper and grinding them smooth? I've done that on a few cars. Bruiser, yours is one of my favorites, love that look!
I did exactly that and for the same reasons the mine were getting deformed from the steal that is embedded in the rubber rusting. after removing the rubber I found my bumper to be really pitted and even had a few holes ate through in places. I polished the bumpers then installed 2 rows of some molding for a Chevy pickup I got from JC Whitney all around the bus. It looks good plus I still have a little protection. Jason
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi630.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu30%2Fjmblakebus%2FMiscPictures020.jpg&hash=d8c87640e4bf0f7f7c71e1d70f09d5e02af4bde3)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi630.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu30%2Fjmblakebus%2FFurniture048.jpg&hash=fb6084faadcfdf8adab5ea9c8be029a42840e85c)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi630.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fuu30%2Fjmblakebus%2FFurniture047.jpg&hash=57e7cc9076ef72b01a5d8cdcfb9dedcb97738017)
jmblake: Your coach looks amazing. I have some slightly thread relevant questions for you (if no one minds).
1. Love the look of your new trim...did you angle grind off the old bumper mounts?
2. LOVE the look of your polished front end. How is this mounted? Does it float on the bottom near the lifting front bumper? I want to do this.
3. Love your headlamp upgrade...how is this done too?
And yes, I love the clean look. Less cladding...less trim...less stuff. Notice in my pic I've removed the drip rail too. Also removed the rubber wheel well flares...but that's probably not legal. 8)
Did mine a year ago and like the look a lot better. Mine were like Jasons in that they were pitted and the bolts were rusted. I just used my Sawzall with a small tooth metal blade. Put in between the rubber and the bumper at each bolt and cut them off on the back. The front I just lifted the bumper and put a block holding it open at each end. I layed on my back and unscrewed most nuts and some just snapped off with an impact. I then ground down any bad spots and filled with body glaze and Wet sanded nice and smooth. I put reflectors over where the bolts were and it look pretty good.
Dave5cs
Scott,
Thanks for the compliments.
I soaked the bolts for several days with PB blaster and they all came off with a impact wrench, As far as the polished SS I bought the headlight kit and the new stainless from IBP in Florida and every thing riveted right back in the same holes as the old panels. Jason
Quote from: Carbone on April 03, 2012, 07:16:44 AM
I have thought about doing exactly what Scott is doing. I plan on filling the holes with stainless button headed allen bolts that would be easily polished before install. Should give it a clean look. They will be available in short lengths for clean install. Glad to see his with it removed, totally changes the look from charter to custom. I'm a hot rod guy by nature, what do you think about welding up the holes in the front bumper and grinding them smooth? I've done that on a few cars. Bruiser, yours is one of my favorites, love that look!
How about polished stove head bolts where they would just be a rounded button head rather than the "allen" recess? Which over time will start rusting in the recess & edges.
;D BK ;D
I'm with BK on this. I'm thinking the stove bolts with the stainless caps on them that they used to use to mount the old chrome bumpers on cars and trucks. There were several styles and should be available at just about any auto parts store. (At least they used to be) or a maybe the old bolt bin at a good salvage yard.
Billy
when you remove the trim from the sides, you'll uncover the seam where two stainless panels overlap on the baggage doors. In my case, the stainless is a bit wavy there. I will install some thin, small trim...enough to cover the seams and the holes. Just going to use the 3M foam emblem tape. Used that stuff for years on my cars. Works amazingly well.