Imron paint and cleaning around rivets

[johns4104]

Will Imron paint last longer without the clearcoat or is it best to clearcoat?
Also I am planning on using paint stripper to clean the old paint from around the rivets.
Any better or easier way?

Thanks,
John

[luvrbus]

John according to Mike Wilson you need to use a #40 sand shot to clean the rivets the stripper will build up behind the rivets    Good Luck

[JohnEd]

John,

IMRON was invented to paint airliners.  They get a full shot of IR.  The stuff I used in the day was single stage and as a paint it had a "wet look" that was great.  I added IR protection additive to the paint.  I think all the 2 stage paints need the clear coat.  To one or the other you must add IR stuff and common sense tells me it would be the clear coat.  Talk to your paint vendor or call the mfr customer rep as I am only cleared for rumors and bulletin board these days.

John

[47FLXclipper]

a way to deal with cleaning around the rivets is a brass wire wheel on a die grinder - tedious, but works amazingly well without any damage to the surface .... there are different flavors of Imron, and a clearcoat isn't usually used, but there is a specific Imron clearcoat to use with some grades of Imron

Bill

[RickB]

My Imron clear coat is lifting ALOT! there are parts of the fenders and bumper where 6"X6" sectons have just lifted and flaked off. If you can do it without it I would. Otherwise have somebody who knows it well apply it or show you how to do it correctly.

Funny Imron story: Rumor has it that when they first started using it, people started dying all over the country either while they were painting or within an hour or two, it took about a month and a number of unfortunate bodymen/ guinea pigs dying for the EPA to realize they had a small epidemic on their hands. The story goes that the first coat was was going into the guys lungs and when they sprayed the second coat of activator it was activating the stuff from the first coat already in their lungs and basically choking them to death. You'd think the folks that designed it woud have done a little more testing.

[tekebird]

was not aware thee was a type of Imron that used clear.....as I have never known anyone who has used it.

I would not go that route......just gives opportunity for something to get screwed up and then end up with pealing Clearcoat.

My Last Coach had a Imron paintjob that looked great after 20 some years, no clear.

[Utahclaimjumper]

Use the stripper then blast it well with a pressure washer, works well around the rivets also.>>>Dan

[makemineatwostroke]

Why not use the sand shot to me it seems like it would do 2 jobs in 1 no worry about sanding the rivets that is where the paint lifts first from what I seen on buses     Have a great evening

[Don4107]

I have had my fill of failed clear coat finishes.  First bus was horrible.  Several cars that failed also.  Problem may be that there can be a definite time window between base coat and clear coat that can be hard to do on a large project. Only real success with clear coat is our boat.  Had it painted with PPG Durathane (I think) with clear and after 10 years still looks wet.

Good luck
Don 4107

[johns4104]

All of the imron I shot was without any clearcoat.
It has been years ago, so I was wondering about the clearcoat now.
I would prefer not to clear, thats alot less work and money!


John

[johns4104s]

I happen to have one 4104 that was shot with imeron 35 years ago and if I get the wax and buffer out it still looks good. I also have a 4104 that was shot base coat clear coat 15 years ago .by STARJET. Which the clear coat is peeling. I also have a MCI 9 that a friend of mine shot with Imeron with clear coat mixed in to the paint before it was shot.This was done 10 years ago. It looks good and shiny and does not require Wax and buffing.

John

[compedgemarine]

most base/clearcoat requires that the clear be applied in less than 24 hours which is tough on a big surface. they make an intercoat clear which is basically a clear basecoat. the purpose is to apply the color then if you cant clear in time you spray the intercoat clear. you then sand the intercoat when you put more color on or prep for the clearcoat. most of the time when clears peel it is due to too long a time from spraying the base to spraying the clear. single stage paints (allgrip or imron and the like) are a catalized top coat and do not need a clear. another issue with some clears is the person spraying it. some put a lot of reducers thinking it will flow out better but it results in less body to the paint and tends to trap the solvents. the biggest thing is to follow the manufacturers mixing instructions.
steve