Bus won't start...TOTALLY bummed.
 

Bus won't start...TOTALLY bummed.

Started by Chaz, June 05, 2008, 04:58:24 PM

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Chaz

Well after planning this trip for weeks, paying 275.00 for a camping spot and busting my @$# like I have rarely busted it before............................ the damn bus won't start.  >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
I have battery, the buzzer comes on but when I hit the switch .... nothing. Neither the dash switch or my remote switch.

Jerry just tried to help me out over the phone and we found that there seems to be juice to the solenoid in the drivers panel but where it "doesn't go" from there, I don't know.  DAMN!!!!! >:(

If any of you have any ideas, you can write me here, but I may not get it for awhile. I'm going to go do the ol' "stare down" thing and then maybe crawl into a bottle of wine. This could be my first hang over in 22 years!  :P

If you think you might have some sort of idea, you can get ahold of me better by calling: 812-212-2222 cell.

Thanx for listening to me whine.
:-\  Chaz
Pix of my bus here: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g279/Skulptor/Motor%20Coach/
What I create here:   www.amstudio.us

"Imagination is more important than knowledge". Albert Einstein

FloridaCliff

Hey Guys,

Talked to Chaz for a little bit.

He's going to make sure he has good voltage and ground at the starter, checking for loose connections at the bulkhead or starter....etc.

It won't start from the front or rear controls.

Cliff

1975 GMC  P8M4905A-1160    North Central Florida

"There are basically two types of people. People who accomplish things, and people who claim to have accomplished things. The first group is less crowded."
Mark Twain

Don4107

You need to give us more to go on. 

Any relay click in the back? 

You wiggled the shift lever to make sure the neutral start switch is in the right spot? 

A quick jumper from the starter solenoid where the (big) positive lead connects to the small wire beside it on the solenoid will test all the battery connections.  If the starter turns then work backward from there, ie locate and bypass the starter relay in back, then check for voltage from the start switch.  Can all be done with just a test light.

Good luck
Don 4107
Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
1966 GM PD 4107 for sale
1968 GMC Carpenter

tekebird


Nick Badame Refrig/ACC

Chaz,

Like said above, Wiggle the shifter....

It's happened to me twice! ;D

Nick-
Whatever it takes!-GITIT DONE! 
Commercial Refrigeration- Ice machines- Heating & Air/ Atlantic Custom Coach Inc.
Master Mason- Cannon Lodge #104
https://www.facebook.com/atlanticcustomcoach
www.atlanticcustomcoach.com

Dallas

I just talked to Chaz and his crossover radiator line on the engine is FUBAR. He is parked safely and going to spend the night where he is.

I told him to give me a call if he needs help, I have lot's of parts and can get to him in about an hour.

Heigh Ho!

Fredward

What? Crossover Radiator line? what does that have to do with the starter functioning or not? Dallas I know you have forgotten more about these things than I'll ever know - I still can't even tell what the symptom is. Educate me please.

Does the engine spin but not start? Does the starter spin but not engage? Does the starter and solenoid do nothing? These are simple machines and to trouble shoot this problem should be easy. Sounds like a connection problem to me; corrosion inside a crimped cable end or on a threaded terminal. The remedy could be as simple as short the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. I know the starter side of my 8V71 quite intimately.
Fred
Fred Thomson

Dallas

Sorry,

Chaz got the engine started, it turned out to be a bad connection, and as always, a PIA to access.

After he had gotten it started and gone a ways down the road he started blowing antifreeze. He also indicated that the stuff coming out was kind of rusty looking.

Against all normal advice, I told him to pour some fabric softener in the radiator after filling it with plain water.... make his run, go home, and drain everything out. If the lower end of the rad isn't plugged, he may be in good shape, if not, it was a try at a simple fix that has worked many many many times.

Dallas

Fredward

Yah. See? You just edumecated me. I'd never heard the fabric softener fix. It works like stop leak?
Fred Thomson

Dallas

Quote from: Fredward on June 05, 2008, 07:17:25 PM
Yah. See? You just edumecated me. I'd never heard the fabric softener fix. It works like stop leak?

Nope, It's not a radiator fix, he'll have to replace the little hose that's leaking, but, if he has nothing but a minor rust problem and some very minor plugging in the radiator. The fabric softener will help clean it out over a period of time with much less problem than lye based radiator flush does.

Many fabric softeners are nothing more than a surfactant that makes water "wetter" along with some scent and thickener to make the clothes smell good.

Someone else can give the reason why water can be "Wetter".

Dallas

JackConrad

Quote from: Dallas on June 05, 2008, 07:28:30 PM
Someone else can give the reason why water can be "Wetter".
Dallas

Dallas,
   we used "wet water" at the Fire Dept. I think it weakens the cohesion between the water molecules. If you pour plain water on a smoldering pile of dead grass, the water kind of lays on top of the pile. "Wet water" seems to soak right into the pile resulting in a quicker more complete extinguishing of the fire.
   My Fire Detection & Suppression system & Fire Extinguisher from Jim Shepherd uses a similar chemical in the tank (brand name Cold Fire).  Maybe Jim can explain this better.  Jack
Growing Older Is Mandatory, Growing Up Is Optional
Arcadia, Florida, When we are home
http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv186/OBS-JC/

jackhartjr

Dallas, I can't explain it however I can tell you that in the 70's I worked for BrinMont Chemicals in Greensboro, NC and we made a product for the carpet industry called Astrowet 75.  It was used somehow in the manufacture of carpet backing, I think as a final cleaner.  It was 75 times wetter than water.  I remember you could put a drop on your finger and start rubbing your finger and thumb together and it was just as slick as snot an hour later.
That did not answer your question...however I do remember that.  You did not dare spill it...took forever to clean up!
Jack
Jack Hart, CDS
1956 GMC PD-4501 #945 (The Mighty SCENICRUISER!)
8V71 Detroit
4 speed Spicer Trannsmission
Hickory, NC, (Where a call to God is a local call!)

Don4107

In the 70s a farmer that I worked for put some kind of surfactant in the radiators of the combines that was suppose to "make water wetter" and help cool and clean out the systems.  In no time at all there was water showing up in the oil!  Seems wetter water also penetrates gaskets better.  Would make me nervous to use on a DD with all the potential places for water to leak through and out of gaskets.

Don 4107
Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
1966 GM PD 4107 for sale
1968 GMC Carpenter

oldmansax

Quote from: jackhartjr on June 06, 2008, 04:36:55 AM
  It was 75 times wetter than water.

Jack,
What I want to know is who made the meter that measures the wetness of water???  ;D ;D ;D

That guy has GOT to be like the Professor that invented Flubber!

TOM

1995 Wanderlodge WB40 current
1985 Wanderlodge PT36
1990 Holiday Rambler
1982 Wanderlodge PT40
1972 MCI MC7

Dreamscape

Chaz,

First I'm glad you got 'er runin! ;D

Hope your coolant issue is an easy fix too!

In the concrete block industry I'm associated with, we use all kinds of differant add mixes to make the "Water Wetter". It also helps to distribute the water quicker and more thoroughly. I have head of guys from years ago adding some Tide in their mix, works pretty darn good too. Just don't add too much, can turn into a real soupy mess. Too much is just as bad as not enough.


Above all, Have lots of fun and give us a report WITH PICS. ;)

FWIW,

Paul