Not funny.

[tekebird]

you will likely need one or the other working to get your bus up to op temp in a dec ent ammount of time or at all in Cold temps.

as I stated, the dampers will have the same effect as the shutters however they were not designed for that purpose and were problematic thus people removing them or locking them open.

parts for rebuild on the cyl etc are availabelf rom MCI.

[chazwood]

I like the shudder idea but can't even see where they were connected.

[tekebird]

perhaps someone who keeps their manuals at thier house will be kind enought to scan the appropiate pages for you

[JohnEd]

WOW!

[compedgemarine]

anyway back to part of the original question, chaz does your bus have a boost guauge and what is making you suspect of the turbo?
steve

[chazwood]

anyway back to part of the original question, chaz does your bus have a boost guauge and what is making you suspect of the turbo?
steve

I wouldn't know a boost guauge if it jumped up and bit me on the afterburner.

Why would I suspect the turbo? My bus runs like a bloated sow. With three legs. If this is all the better it ever ran ,whoever invented the turbo for buses was a funny guy.

Of course, I just learned that all the radiator baffles and blower shudders and some-such, were all disarmed, causing the engine to run cool on short trips. (I can hear Mr. Greyhound now....."if ya ain't going at least 1000 miles ...she ain't worth takin' out'a the garage)  My only trip, so far, was in cool weather and  the water temp gauge read about 160 the whole trip. (when it wasn't being spastic) so that could be causing the three legged sow syndrome. As an example....In order to go 60, I really need to stand on the gas pedal. Then, if I grind it through the floor like I'm trying to stomp out a fireproof cigarette butt, I get 65-70. Maybe. (OK...down hill, with a tail wind.) For all I know this might be normal. The engine does not smoke even if it's floored going uphill. (which is the only way it will go up hill.) So with a combination of cold engine, mud in the bearings and fear in the operator , perhaps I was expecting too much. Just wondering how fast the rest of you guys go.

[PP]

Okay Chaz, you got the gutless hog, but what kind of mileage does she get? If everything is working correctly, less the shudders and dampers, then the tradeoff in performance must be increased mileage.
Sorry, couldn't help myself. PP

[chazwood]

No man, this thing is fast....I got a turbo . 

Mileage? Haven't figured out any mileage yet. This thing doesn't even have a fuel gauge. Looks like it never had one. (What do you expect from a vehicle with no key?) That should make things interesting.


"Hey Momma, get me the fuel tank dip stick, would ya?"..... "Yup.... lookin' a little low.... better call Countrywide for that home equity loan again."

[tekebird]

Chaz, Don;t have much experience with the 6v92T, maybe 5 hours behind the wheel.  in that time on a fresh "ish" engine I would say it did not have anything on my 8-71NA

if that is commonplace it is just slow. in comparison to anything you have likely driven.

You should easily be able to get to 75 however.  

Just recently purchasd my first turbo a 8-92t...and it has no boost gauge ( they were optional)

You could very well have a slipping tranny in addition to high friction due to mud in your bearings.

I'd knock one thing off at a time.

Obviously the bearings are a contributing factor so do that first......then figure out how to rearm your dampers or install shutters.

and so Dr Dave doesn't get upset here is the proper terminology

the mechanism that is outboard/upstream on the radiators are Radiator Shutters and they will have a shutterstat to controll them as well as some air lines.

the mechanism on the bottom of the blower enclosures are Dampers...they too will have "shutterstats" and the associated hardware.

your engine should be able to reach op temp 175-185 or so within a few block after airup in the temps you have.....might be a few miles in colder temps.

Now that is with working shutterstats ( either on the dampers or shutters)  I assume eventually the temp might get to where it should be.......but keep in mind operating below these temps is detrimental to Engine life.....

Now with that said do we know if your gauge is reading correct? tempurature gauge?  and what is the deviation between the front and rear gauge when the engine is hot ( after a run)

[tekebird]

Chaz, was this a Real Hound?

Now not smoking is not a 100% good indicator of a worn out engine......it is a telltale sign but you can have a worn out engine that doesnt smoke.

And yes, we did have a 6-71 ran fine, was down on power and we just chalked it up to 6-71 stereotypical "they are weak"  unitl the NEW Crate 6-71 was installed.....new one ran like araped ape and would keep up with 450HP on all but the longest steepest pulls......

old engine was torn down......and it was worn...well worn to the point our mechanic said he was supprised it was running so well ( testiment for the DD 2 stroke)

Fuel Gauges were and are still optional....really no need for one.....you know the min range on a full tank.....and you fill before you go that far.

forget if you have a manual or an Auto...... on an auto I would plan on 5mpg.....and see what you end up with.

I have a 6 speed and plan on 6 but often get 8

[grantgoold]

I just serviced my gearbox and the sightglass was useless. I cleaned the sucker a few times and it was still dark as ^&%$&*.  It looked to me as if you would be almost empty before that window would show half way full? I built a dip stick as a secondary device and make sure that both the window is dark and the chamber is at least half full.

Good luck!
Grant

[JohnEd]

The Chazter,

Now Teke edged me out because I kept going back to see who else wrote what but I think he had (and me too) one of the bestest points.  Needed more emphasis, though.  Don't run your engine under load at 160 degrees.  Like Teke said "that might be detrimental"...cough, snort!  You should have a temp gauge in the engine compartment, that doesn't run off of the same sender as the dash gauge.  Really.  Oil pressure gauge back there also that is really accurate and mechanical as you are feet from the oil pump.

Harbor freight has a "non contact Infra red heat gun" for $40 or so.  A must have tool.  What is the temp of the water coming out of each radiator?  What is the temp of my differential?  When stopped after a run are ALL my bearings running at the same temp by group or should I reduce speed and crawl to the next off ramp and call for directions to the nearest repair facility and crawl there and avoid the $20 per mile or worse tow charge?  What is the water temp at my defroster?  The skin in the sun....shade?  What is the temp of my tires cause that is the best indicator of air pressure and is the center hotter than the edges.....too much air.....102 instead of the 107 pounds, for example,  and learn this before it shows up as "data" on the tire tread depth gauge/  See what a usefull Puppy that gun is?  And that is just off the top Chazzy.

You have a bad gauge or you thermostats have been removed.  I recently had this problem on a gas 4 wheeler.  Turned out that a piece of debris had wedged in the thermostats shutter and the engine came up to temp after 20 miles or so instead of the two blocks like God and Lexus intended.  Maybe one of the two in a DD would keep the entire mill  as cool as you think yours is.  Don't know.

If your engine is as cold as you think, that is why you have "low power".  You should also be getting really bad milage, as well.

Get the turbo gauge.  That will tell you if that jewel is starting to go south and spare you the side of the road and lost oil experience.

The bright side here is that you are one of those rarest of beasts....and MCI with too much cooling capacity.  If there isn't a special group for you guys, there ought to be.  You would stand out if for no other reason than how few of you are a group.

Great posts, Chaz.  Bit on the afterburner?  Way back there?

Thanks for the laughs Chaz,

John

[tekebird]

to expand on John's post.......yep no Tstats would certainly cause low temp....a common (but stupid) attempt to fix a too hot situation......also could be just one or two tstats failed open...yep they will and can fail either way open or closed.

Based on info given.  I suspect that it was a hot runner.....shutters were removed as well as Dampers being disbaled.....when that failed they went to the tstats?

Heck maybe someone put tap water in the cooling system.....that stuff can wreck havoc with mineral buildups which can also cause tstat issues

[chazwood]

if that is commonplace it is just slow. in comparison to anything you have likely driven.

I have driven bulldozers that are faster than this thing.

where exactly do you mount the rear temp gauge?

[tekebird]

it should have one.....one the left side of the engine compartment towards the top of the main doors should be right around the rear controls