I've been reading past posts...

chazwood · February 13, 2008, 06:15:57 AM

And now I'm cross-eyed.

I'm removing the inside skin to check for frame rust on my MC9. (Had a couple of leaky side running lights)

Question. Do I have to put the skins back? or is the bus strong enough with just screwing 1/4 ply back in?

JackConrad · February 13, 2008, 07:58:00 AM

On our MC-8, after removing interior skin, we had the bus sprayfoamed, then installed 1/2" plywood. The plywood was glued with urethane construction adhesive as well as screws at about the same spacing as the OEM rivets. Just "our way", YMMV Jack

Paladin · February 13, 2008, 09:53:25 AM

My 8 doesn't have interior walls yet because I'm still dealing with the flooring. 1 1/2" high density foam panels since I can't afford the spray and then I'm planning on either 3/8" or maybe 1/2" sanded ply but right now nada but the 1 1/2" sq tube framing and some foam here and there.

-Dave

bobofthenorth · February 13, 2008, 10:09:40 AM

I'm no engineer so this is just my opinion and therefore worth exactly what you paid for it but I wouldn't count on 1/4" ply for any structural integrity. 1/2" maybe but 1/4" is pretty flimsy stuff.

Stan · February 13, 2008, 11:43:14 AM

The interior panels in MCI coaches are structural and some people say that the bus structure will fail if they are not in place. Some people are fanatical about replacing the panels with all the proper rivets and others take the panels to the salvage yard and cover the interior walls with the material of their choice.

I have been following bus boards for many years and I haven't heard of any buses collapsing because of the missing panels. It is back to the old statement of 'do it your way'.

tekebird · February 13, 2008, 11:47:17 AM

they are structural.

now will you have a failure? That is the gamble.

with the Majority of Home Conversions seeing very little use, your chances of a failure are slim.

That being said that does not mean it won't start failing from minute one.

it's a calculated risk.

chazwood · February 13, 2008, 12:32:44 PM

So, if I driving, and all of the sudden the road starts disappearing and I find myself looking straight at the clouds... I'm experiencing a failure?

I wouldn't mind putting back in the panels but with all those rivets sticking proud of the surface the ply wouldn't sit very smooth when I screw it to the panel.

And furthermore with an additional thickness added to the wall around the window cutouts how does the old window gasket go back in? I bet new windows are deeper to allow for a thicker wall.

chazwood · February 13, 2008, 12:40:21 PM

Quote from: bobofthenorth on February 13, 2008, 10:09:40 AM
I'm no engineer so this is just my opinion and therefore worth exactly what you paid for it but I wouldn't count on 1/4" ply for any structural integrity. 1/2" maybe but 1/4" is pretty flimsy stuff.

True, but I plan to leave the double pane windows for now and didn't want to add any more thickness to the wall than I had to, because, I don't know how to use the old window gaskets on the thicker window openings.

Maybe everyone is adding thickness to their lower wall but stopping a few inches below the windows? (and then putting in a trim piece on top of the extra thickness and not even getting close to the windows?)

Stan · February 13, 2008, 05:01:22 PM

If the frame members are not rusted, then a sidewall structural failure is the least of your worries with a 25 year old bus that may have several million miles on the clock.

chazwood · February 13, 2008, 05:11:56 PM

Well..... now that you mention it... if the "BUS-ta-gut" has a few million miles on it... what should I worry about? (Engine and Tran are recent rebuilds )

I call it "bus-ta-gut" because I'm removing the floors and seat tracks right now and it's been years and quite a few pounds since that I tried to squat this much.

Stan · February 13, 2008, 05:49:33 PM

Front Axle and all steering components.
Rear suspension and all brake components.
All wheels and mounting hardware.
Rear bulkhead and engine mounting rails.
Rusted framing at back of bus.
While you are checking these things you will have an opportunity to have a good look at the rest of the undercarriage and will likely find other things critical to safe travel that need repair or replacement.

If you hired a competent bus mechanic to check your bus before you bought it, he should have given you a report on the above items. HTH.

chazwood · February 13, 2008, 06:39:45 PM

Before I bought this bus I got some advice from a man who works at our local Trailways hub. He told me what obvious rust issues to check for. Having now uncovered all the floors, some upper frames, and all four air beams I am happy to report that very little surface rust was found anywhere. In fact the worst place on the whole bus was that thin sheet of steel, under the sheet of aluminum, under the bathroom pan, over the engine compartment, because, that ridiculous little magnetic catch window looks like it hasn't worked in a long time, if ever.

What I was interested in, when purchasing, was a sound bus with good bones....everything else is replaceable.

Judging by the destination sign, and claims of the PO, this bus looks like is stayed in the south east.