Polishing the stainless steel siding

[82 MCI-9]

 I'am going to be getting started polishing the siding on my mc-9 and was wonder the which products you guys have found to work best, like which buffing pads you have used and which polish worked best. Thanks Robert

[JackConrad]

On our MC-8, I used buffing wheels (not pads) on a slow speed 9" grinder and "bricks" of polish.  I started with  black (emory), then red (tripoli), then green (for SS), followed by white and then blue for final mirror shine.  I changed buffing wheels each time I changed polishes. I purchased all my polishing supplies from International Bus & Parts.  1-800-468-5287  Jack

[Ray D]

The starting grit determines what you start with.  Are you repolishing or is your stainless still have the brushed look.  I have a copy of the instructions that International bus parts gives out if you want it.

Ray D

[makemineatwostroke]

Helped a friend do his MCI he used  p3000 Trizact 3 M discs first and the Perfect It 3 M compond with a foam buffer second easy and fast.He got the idea from a outfit in Arkansas that polishes Prevosts and MCI          FWIW

[Hobie]

Remember to keep the buffing wheel clean.  Use a 'church key' or a can opener ( the pointed type that pierces a can ) and use the point against the wheel to re-fluf the wheel and remove the clumps.  Be careful so you the wheel doesn't snag your shirt and wind itself up ...into you.   You may be tempted to use a screwdriver but it will round its edge.   It the pad tends to get wet,  you are using too much compound.   If you work top to bottom, left to right you will sling compound away from the finished area reducing cleaning time and giving you something to admire while you work! 

[82 MCI-9]

Thanks guys for all of your answers. what wheel size and thickness should i use?

[Ray D]

I start off the rough stuff with a "treated vent buff", then I use the same, only a new one with the fine compound. then I use a spiras sewn and then a flanel buff.  I use 10" and I use 2 pads at once which gives a 1" width.

Here is a site that has good service and also a forum you can learn a lot from.

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html

Ray D

[compedgemarine]

Be careful so you the wheel doesn't snag your shirt and wind itself up ...into you.

best advice of all. we had a guy here at the shop do that and four days later when he made back into work he looked like he had fallen off a motorcycle. and he polishes stuff for a living.
steve

[grantgoold]

I polished my entire 9 to a mirror finish. About six months worth of backbreaking/armbreaking work! Be very careful not to polish in one spot too long as you can burn the stainless. You will get dirty! Be sure to wear eye protection and very tight fitting clothes. I started from scratch, read the IBP site stuff and then practiced on a piece of stainless that no one would see.  I used about 12 wool buffing pads.  4 for the heavy compound...4 for the light.... you get the idea.

I was very happy with the service I got at a Southwest Metals

http://www.swmetal.com/

They are very helpful as you describe your particular situation. Take a look at my bus pictures and you can see the eventual outcome of a complete novice at polishing.

Good luck!

Grant

[DrivingMissLazy]

More good information on supplies and how to. And never ever use the same polishing pad when you change to a lighter grade buffing compound.

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html?source=google

Richard

[82 MCI-9]

well it looks like i have my work cut out for me but i think it is worth it in the end i want to get started on it early while it is still cool outside before it hits a 100 out here and i want to get it done before the cavern rally. I agree about the safty facter i have had a few parts fly accross the garage  . Thanks for the help guys!