How are you guys doing your interior walls?

[Paladin]

Single panel, framing like a house or??

-Dave

[TomC]

After stripping the interior down to the bare frame, I repaired a couple of cracks over the two doors, then wire brushed the metal, then sprayed Rustoleum primer on the entire interior.  At this point I screwed into the metal supports 1x2 fir strips horizontally at about one foot spacing to have an anchor for my walls, and where cabinets were to go used 1x3 kiln dried fir strips for extra strength.  This also extended the walls out so with my next step of having foam insulation sprayed in, created insulation that is 2.00' thick, and with the 1/4" plywood over the insulation, makes for a wall thickness of 2.25".  It is insulated well, and is much quieter.  Over the plywood, on the walls I just used a dense outdoor carpet from Home Depot spray glued to the walls.  The ceiling is painted with gloss white paint with 2" wide Oak strips running the length of the bus.  Simple, and with everything screwed together, I can easily remove any panel if I want to service or add anything.  Good Luck, TomC

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Dave,

I went with 2x3" wood, drilled and screwed. Verticals are on 12" centers then covered each side with 3/8" plywood.

This enabled me to run electrical and plumbing. Also, I insulated the interior walls for sound proofing.

Ended up with no movement, squeeks, or cracks in the bodyfiller I used on the seems.

Good Luck
Nick-

[Tenor]

I'm going to use steel for at least part of my walls.  The steel systems use a "u" channel piece for the floors and ceilings which has no folding.  It will be super easy to snip the sides to allow this to bend to match the curve of the ceiling.  I am going to go with 1 5/8" width to help maximize space and still be able to run electrical in the walls.  I may need to go thicker for the wet wall between my tub and sink to enclose the vent stack.  We'll see!  I hope to start that this week.

[gumpy]

I've been using 3/4" birch veneer plywood for walls. It's 7 layers. Screwed it to the floor, bus walls, and ceiling plywood using pocket screws. It's working out well. For nice corners, you can attach a piece of maple using pocket screws, biscuits, or breadboard edge. You can also use the iron on maple veneer. Or, as I did on my shower, you can tile around the corner with 3/4" Italian glass mosiac tiles.

[Jerry Liebler]

I  used 2" wide strips of 3/4" imported cabinet plywood as furring on 8" centers.  The furring strips are screwed to the ribs with 4 sheet metal screws at each crossing.  My insulation is cut sheets of 'Rmax', a total of 2".  The interior of my ceiling and bathroom is 'Structoglass' a fiber reinforced plastic panel that is screwed to the furring strips with sheet metal screws under plastic screw caps.  My walls are 3/32" luan paneling screwed to the furring strips, painted and wallpapered.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120

[H3Jim]

LIke Gumpy I used 3/4 veneered plywood for the walls.  saves space and is plenty strong.  Pocket hole screwed to the floor and ceiling and wall, its very strong.  The onlly wall I made thicker, was the back of the shower so as to make room for plumbing inside the wall.  Most other walls have a cabinet or something on one side, and so I can run wires in the corners and cracks or behind drawers. on the inside of the cabinets.  Every inch is valuable space, and the walls really do not need to be 3 or 4 inches thick.

[Paul]

I used 3/4" Plywood cut into firring strips 2" & 3" installed horizontally. I drilled, taped and screwed with 10/32 flat head phillips 18-8 SS screws. Then I installed 3" firring at the bottom of old window line at the bend of the side of bus. This will be where the horizontal plywood seam will be. I will install plywood from this line horizontally, one sheet to top of bus and cut to size on bottom installed with flat head phillips sheet metal screws. There will be room for MC Cable or 3/8 Greenfield in walls. I used stainless steel screws for less heat transfer and no rust stains.

                 Paul
                 www.incredibus.com

[dparker]

like some of the guys i used 1/2" a/c grade 5ply plywood directly to bus wall, were the old windows were i used that pink and blue insulation from lowes cut to fit with can foam if i did not cut well, i then used a wood/metal screw designed for attaching wood to metal (the screw cuts a slightly larger hole in the wood, as these tabs hit the metal they shear off and then self tap into the metal, with fine threads they held well and finished flush) i placed these in locations that would cover with the trim boards, attempting to hit the mild steel supports behind the alum panels.   I used a pre-primed 1x4 for all the trim -- then painted everything out in contrasting colors ... not a fancy look but neat and functional ... i liked having the 1/2 ply everywhere made attaching anything to wall easy as the project took shape -- you will not have any trouble discerning when you drill into stainless or mild steel ! 

when i did my bus i was not aware of this resource (this board is great source of information and would like to  take the time thank those who give their time to relate their experiences) 

now that i read and have spent a little time on this board i am not surprised that without the resource i choose 1/2 ply and the gumpy man did 3/4 cabinet grade birch ...of course !!!! 

if you have not reviewed his site you should take the time -- wow talk about doing it right the first time --

although i now implementing a PLC to control my ac (head pressure on condenser verse fan speed) evap temp to prevent freezing up -- make my mark lights blink cool -- control interior lighting --- etc and give me touch screen control and display -- guess now gumpy will install a voice activated system in his bus (or sorry coach) lol     

[Rick Brown]

The decor for my 4905 is Battle Bus.
1/4" single side sanded plywood blind riveted to existing steel frame members.  Between the frame members is is a combination of R-Max and white foam insulation.  Things I hang from the walls like cabinets are secured to the steel frame.  Things like interior partitions are secured to (now don't make fun of Sticks and Staples) 1.5 x .75 studs glued to the 1/4" ply and stapled from the reverse side before the siding is installed.  If I was going to host frat partys in the bus I'd probably have chosen thicker ply, but I have sacrificed that option in favor of reduced weight to drag around.
-RickBrown in Reno, NV

[prevost82]

I used a standard 2x4 partition wall and use standard pocket door track and hardware. I made custom pocket doors with mirrors on both sides inset into the door frame.

[cody]

My walls are all blue foam between the metal uprights with 1/8thx 3/4inch felt glued to the metal for a thermal break, over that I screwed down 3/4inch plywood and sealed all the seams.  The felt not only serves as a thermal break but also prevents any squeaks from the plywood in motion. I used prefinished paneling in a white pattern over the plywood, because everything either hangs or attaches to the walls I chose to use 3/4 inch for that.

[Jerry32]

sounds like you were talking about the interior dividing walls and I just used 3/4 plywood then used panelling to cover them to what I would want for each room. Jerry

[Jerry Liebler]

Paladin,
      Above I described my exterior walls.  My interior partitions are, with one exception, 3/4" maple veneer plywood with a 1/4" x 3/4" strip of maple glued to the edge that faces the aisle. The exception is the end of my tub/shower which is 2x4 s with 1/4" maple veneer plywood on one side and "Structoglass on the shower side. This wall contains the plumbing system's vent through the roof and the tub drain and fill valves.  I attached the 3/4" plywood to the exterior walls by slipping it into aluminum chanels formed to the contour of the exterior wall and screwed to the furring strips.  A few screws through the channels into the plywood hold them in place.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120

[buddydawg]

For my dividing walls I am planning to use 3/4 birch with pocket screws to the floor and exterior side, I havent yet determined how I will attach to the ceiling.  Maybe with an aluminum track.  For any other walls that require plumbing, etc. I will frame them and use 1/4 birch for those.