ENGINE CART

[artglass]

LOOKING FOR SUGESTIONS ON BUILDING A ENGINE REMOVAL CART , WAS PLANNING ON USING MCI PLANS IN THE BOOK TO B UILD THIS FROM ANY ONE HAVE ANYTHING TO MAKE  IMPROVEMENTS OVER THIS FOR A 8V-71 , 740 ALLISON TRANS. aNY IN PUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATEED.

[Busted Knuckle]

I've never seen the one in MCI's book but a friend of mine has a very nice one that he built, that I borrow from time to time. I plan on building one simular to it soon. Could you email, fax or post a pic of MCI's to me? I'll tell you if it's what we use or close to it. The one we use the engine/transmission and craddle just slide out off the bus rails onto it all together, it has rails just like the bus and a small bottle jack on each corner u can jack the back up an keep the tranny pan from catching on the crossmember of the cart!
                                                                                                                                                                   

[MCI Courier]

Here are a couple of photos of the cart that will hold the 471 Detroit from my MCI Courier.

[MCI Courier]

Might give you some ideas.

Pete

[Busted Knuckle]

MCI Courier Welcome aboard the Board!  And thanks for the nice photos of a good looking economical stand! The one we use is quite heavier and made with I-Beams and Square tubing the runners are turned 45degrees so as to be like a diamond shape and allow the engine cradel to perfctly match as it slides on/off  they're also made on top of square tubes (one one each end) inside a slightly larger tube with a small bottle jack at each corner wear it can be raised and lower if needed! I'll try to find and post some pics. Knuckle

[NJT5047]

My dolly doesn't look like that pipe thing.  Looks like you could drag the cradle out onto the rails? 
This is what my dolly looks like.  This is used to pull most MC7, 8,9, and probably MC12, 102, etc.  engine/trans/cradle out as an assembly.  This really isn't a major issue if you have a good place to work. 
I'll post a pix of my engine sitting on the stand...had to pull it to install rear main seal....project worked out well.  Found all sorts of issues needing attention....any one of which could have left me on the side of the road. 
Enjoy!  JR

[MCI Courier]

I haven't had to take the engine out since I've owned the bus. The cart will line up with the rails that the engine cradle is fastened to after removing a section of bumper.

Thanks for the welcome Knuckle.

Pete

[Busted Knuckle]

JR looks as though someone got wild with purple paint! LOL! Also yes the engine cart pictured as well as the heavier duty one I borrow are designed for the engine, & trans to slide out on with the cradle riding on the top rails! The heavy duty one we use is built out of I-beam and has square rails turned 45 degrees to perfectly match up to the engine cradle, & it is adjustable with a bottle jack under each end of each rail to adjust the heighth! works pretty slick! Next week I'll see if I can find the pics I have of it and post them! If not as soon as I build my own I'll take pics and post them! Knuckle!

[Burgermeister]

NJT's version (depending) allows for forklift assistance.

As I've seen in older posts,  NJTs version, if made correctly, allows you to position the cradle under the engine and either lower the bus by dropping air pressure and roll out or use a forklift, (if you're lucky to have access to one)

If you've got the room, either way works, although NJTs, by dropping the pressure would allow a "roll-out" instead of a "drag-out"

[Busted Knuckle]

NJT's version (depending) allows for forklift assistance.

As I've seen in older posts,  NJTs version, if made correctly, allows you to position the cradle under the engine and either lower the bus by dropping air pressure and roll out or use a forklift, (if you're lucky to have access to one)

If you've got the room, either way works, although NJTs, by dropping the pressure would allow a "roll-out" instead of a "drag-out"

This is true but with the other it is on wheels and can be rolled anywhere needed to get it out of the way, I can move it by myself but it is easier with 2 people. For us the drag out is not a problem, as we hook the tow truck to it and winch it out onto the stand (but a come-along or chain hoist works just as well, but a little more muscle is required!) BK

[Burgermeister]

I considered either version to have wheels to roll out,  with NJTs you could get fork blades just inside the caster wheels

[niles500]

You mount one of those on an old pallet jack - and you got yourself sumtin!

[Sammy]

I use the same set up to pull powerplants too. I like to put some blocks of wood between dolly and trans pan too, to help support the trans. I use Sefac electric lifts at each wheel to rasie the coach, slide dolly into place and let powerplant assy  down onto dolly - just until cradle clears the chassis. I use a forklift to pull assy from the coach.Works like a charm every time.
i modified one of these dollys to pull out a Series 60 and B500 combo from an  H3 Prevost also.
Bryce, like your idea of the additional bottle jacks built into your dolly. Sounds like it might come in handy, especially when we have them 1/2 way out, LOL.

[NJT5047]

JR looks as though someone got wild with purple paint! LOL!

Busted, you never seen a "Barney Motor?"   This was THE color for in-house NJT rebiulds.  The DD rebuilt engines were silver (Reliabuilts), in-house purple, and they had a ceramic emission engine that was blue.  The silvers and purples are preferred, but a good blue will work fine.
My motor toter works as someone described.  Just air up the bus (both ends) and roll the cart under the engine and position under the pan flange.  The pan bolts will sit on the upper flange and the engine easily pulls right out.  The only downside is that the pan cannot be removed, and the starter must be pulled to use the NJT style dolly.  Let just enough air out of the rear airbags and the cradle lifts off the frame.  Only takes an 1/4" and out it comes.  Don't want to let too much air out as that allows the cradle to clear the frame angle and then it will move sideways...and something will get damaged.   
Other than those shortcomings, the thing works very well.  The starter is aggravating for a one man install, which is how I work, because the fuel filters are almost in the way.   But, hey.  I pulled the engine and replaced the rear main seal.  After 2500 miles, still holding.  Those DD seals are a PITA to install.  Goes in dry...scares me.  What if the teflon doesn't wipe just right?   Wear ring is a bear to remove too.  Easy enough to install. 
Wondered about how many miles a rear main seal lasts?  That's the only way to guess how many miles is on my engine.  NJT doesn't typically supply engine rebuild records...they don't supply any records.  NJTs are WYSIWYG.
We just returned from a weekend of rainmaking...every damn time I go to an outdoor festival it rains.  We've had drought conditions here in North Carolina for the last 3 years, yet it rained big-time Sat nite.   I HAVE BEEN TO 4 FESTIVALS SINCE MAY 9TH, AND IT HAS RAINED AT EVERY ONE OF THEM..YET MY GRASS DIES FROM LACK OF RAIN HERE AT HOME! Sorry, geezer moment.   And it was hot. 
Solution ...crank the genset, turn on rooftop AC, remove cold adult beverage from LP powered RV style fridge ...and relax ...return for more beverage ...relax some more!  Repeat as necessary.
Got scared that I'd be stuck AM the next day and moved the bus at midnight to the top of a hill.  That a lot of work, suddenly picking up everything that makes up a comfy outdoor patio, so the bus could be moved.  Good thing...rained buckets!   Made my adult beverage all the better.   Thinking about those DAs that were going to be stuck in the morning.  And they were. 
Anyone that doubts my rainmaking capability, ask Dallas what happened at the First Bi-Annual Timmonsville Busn Get-To-Get-Her.
I can be hired for special occasions...cheap.   Garunteed to rain out any weekend!
Well, that's enough "lame and inane" prattle for one night! 
Cheers, JR