Question for you HVAC guys (Now with Pictures)

[captain ron]

I put a 110 volt water pump on my proheat setup. I just hooked up my thermostat and want it to control my pump also. Is that necessary or does that pump need to run all the time? Or is there a way to shut it down after everything cools down? I'm in LaLa Land when it comes to this stuff.

[JackConrad]

Ron,
  I just ordered an aquastat to control the fans on the heater cores for our proheat. The aquastat fits in the return line to the proheat and does not allow the fans to come on until the water is 120 degrees. Our proheat has a water pump as part of the package.  You could use your thermostat to control a relay  that would operate your pump. (relay should be rated for 120 volt and have a coil that matches the ooutput voltage of your thermostat) Just curious, why did you add a 120 volt pump?  Jack

[captain ron]

The replacement pumps for a proheat is big $$$ so I got this one that a few other guys are using. Its for a hot water heating system for a home.

[Don4107]

Ron

If you are eliminating the 12v pump built into the Proheat then you should be able to use the 12v leads that ran the built in motor to control a relay to switch your 120V pump.  As Jack said you would need a relay with a 12/24VDC coil which ever your unit has and contacts rated for 120VAC.

Not sure if that would mess up the on board logic/self diagnostics.   I have not installed mine yet, but was thinking I might do something like this only with a larger DC pump.

Someone has surely done this before or at least added an axillary pump and hopefully will chime in too.

Don 4107

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Don,

The control board of the proheat senses the amp draw of the 12v pump. If you try and draw a different curraent from it, it will lock out.

Ron, do as Jack has told you and run down to RE Michael and pick up an aquastat. A single pole single throw should be about 40/50 dollars.

I also have a aqua stat controlling my circulation fans. You can strap the stat to the body of the proheat to bring on the pump.

Another route would be a current sensing relay. It would sense the current draw of the proheat and bring on the pump.

Good Luck
Nick-

[Ednj]

[

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

hay Ron,

Here is a little more on the "current sensing relay"...  you would run the proheat main 12v feed wire through the sensing hole, then the relay will

make contact for your water pump.  Pretty simple and inexpensive set up.

http://www.crmagnetics.com/newprod/ProductView.asp?ProdName=CR5395

Nick-

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Don,

The control board of the proheat senses the amp draw of the 12v pump. If you try and draw a different curraent from it, it will lock out.



Good Luck
Nick-

>
Wire in your circulation pump, to the boiler with an on/off switch.
(If the Proheat is on the pump is on)
Install an AT transformer and zone valves, with the Thermostats (or switches) controlling the zone valves.
Thermostats, 1 for the bedroom, 1 for the livingroom.
Switches 1 for the wvo tank, 1 for the towel warmer etc.
With the pump constantly circulating through the flat plate exchanger you will always have hot water and the Proheat will stay up to temp, running less.
You could just leave the Thermostat turning on and off the proheat, when the thermostat calls for heat the proheat will fire up and run hard to get up to temp then shut down.

By the way I received my 34,000 BTU cabin air heater, that will go on it’s own zone.
Here’s a couple pictures’

Eddie,

That transformer you have in pic #1, unmount it from that piece of wood and get it mounted on a metal work box.....
Fire Hazzard!  Fire Hazzard!...

Nick-

[captain ron]

Eddie,

That transformer you have in pic #1, unmount it from that piece of wood and get it mounted on a metal work box.....
Fire Hazzard!  Fire Hazzard!...

Nick-

It's mounted with a standoff but really it's part of his fire suppression system, if you notice it is hooked to his fresh water tank in case of a fire it will burn through and let water out putting out the fire. Very elaborate system 

[Busted Knuckle]

Eddie,

That transformer you have in pic #1, unmount it from that piece of wood and get it mounted on a metal work box.....
Fire Hazzard!  Fire Hazzard!...

Nick-

It's mounted with a standoff but really it's part of his fire suppression system, if you notice it is hooked to his fresh water tank in case of a fire it will burn through and let water out putting out the fire. Very elaborate system 

FWIW IMOHO it still looks like a good amount of damage could be done by the flames going up first before melting through the tank! Maybe he should cut out that section of wood and screw it dirtectly to the tank for a more reliable "Fire Supression System" that way if the transformer overheated it could active the "Fire Suppression System with out having flames! 
  BK 

[captain ron]

Can I use this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/honeywell-aquastat-40006A_W0QQitemZ140179153387QQihZ004QQcategoryZ109481QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[captain ron]

Or this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Honeywell-L4006A-aquastat-100-240-hi-or-low-limit_W0QQitemZ200174516765QQihZ010QQcategoryZ41987QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Ron,

You will want a strap on type aqua stat. The one you have listed from e-bay looks like it has a fixed bulb straight out the back.

Look at Bruce's aqua stat that I installed on his bus to operate his HP fan. That's the type you need.

Nick-

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Ron,

I didn't see the second one you posted but, 100 deg on the low end is what you need.

I have my fan set to come on at 130 deg, and cycle off at 105 deg.

Nick-

[captain ron]

Second question. Are these going to operate a 12 volt fan or are they 110/220 ac only?