Busnut looking for fridge plans...

gumpy · November 10, 2007, 08:10:50 PM

I received an email from a fellow busnut who was unable to post on the board for some reason. He's looking for plans to build
a refrigerator box for an MC8.

He didn't get into the details of why he wants to build his own refrigerator box, or how it's intended to be used. He's just wondering if anyone has any detailed plans they might share. '

Please respond here, or send me a private email, and I'll pass it along.

Thanks
craig

Len Silva · November 11, 2007, 07:08:23 AM

While I don't have any specific advise to offer, look in the marine world. They use cold plates and remote compressors to build custom refers.

Len

TomC · November 11, 2007, 01:21:46 PM

Dometic owns Tundra compressor type reefers (of which are the reefer available for Freightliner, Sterling and Western Star trucks), also on the marine side offer the Grunnert cold plate system for both reefers and freezers for custom boxes. Norcold makes the Norcolder that is also a cold plate system. Personally would just buy a pre made reefer. The refrigeration cold plate systems cost as much sometimes more than a pre made reefer. Good Luck, TomC

2starbyrds · November 13, 2007, 04:45:48 PM

Wow! I figured out how to get in, Thanks Craig. I have a new domestic frig. that I need to install. I am a girlie not a guy! My husband works a 50 hr week so I'm doing the conversion. I was looking for plans on how to build the box that the frig would go into. I read that they need to be airtight and thats about it. Just wondering how far from the wall would the back need to be. I was thinking of an aluminium lined box that is insulated then wood or something over that so it would look OK. My husband said it would need to be raised up off the floor, thats OK with me, but I was wondering why?

gumpy · November 13, 2007, 04:54:08 PM

Great. Glad you were able to get in and get a reply posted. You're now a regular poster here

So, I didn't use an RV fridge, so hopefully others will respond with ideas for building the enclosure. As for raising it off the floor,
it's probably so that fresh air can circulate under and up the back to remove the heat from the coils. I'm guessing here, so again,
hoping others will fill in the blank spots.

Welcome to the board, and glad I was able to at least help you get this far.

craig

Dale MC8 · November 13, 2007, 05:12:03 PM

If you are going to use a RV refer, the reason to raise it off the floor is so you don't have to bend over as far. Build yourself an enclosure just like you would make a wardrobe closet but don't put doors on it. It doesn't need finished walls but an extra layer of insulation on the sides won't hurt a thing. Good luck.
Dale MC8

NewbeeMC9 · November 13, 2007, 06:03:46 PM

would this be one that run's on propane or electricity?

maybe if you posted a brand and model number or a link to the website we could help you decipher it.

interesting doing the converting, I'm impressed. congrats and welcome

JohnEd · November 13, 2007, 07:09:56 PM

Byrd,

I think part of the confusion is you called your fridge a "DOMESTIC". That means for the house and with no other comment it also means 120 volt AC powered. One of the major brands for RV's is the "D O M E T I C ". That guy uses propane or 120 V for fuel. The two kinds are mounted differently. A domestic doesn't need to be mounted off of the floor cause it was designed tall. The RV style is more shallow and shorter and sits on a 12-18 inch enclosure that is usually a storage cubord.

This is your challenge is that the coils have to be "outside" so they can give up heat to the great outdoors. If they aren't they will heat up your coach seriously in the summer. Then, while the rear is outside, the front needs to be inside and not have any air leaks to the outside. Usually at the rear of the box is a foam strip that fits snugly against the side of the refer and separates and seals the side. It is almost a must to have small muffin fans mounted in the cavity that encloses the rear of the refer so that air can be circulated. Also, the rear should vent out the roof of you coach and have a vent for air inlet near the bottom of the refer on the OUTSIDE wall behind the refer.

If you refer ingests cooling air from under the front you should think about another model unless you can redirect it. The compressor should be moved to the rear of the refer or a circ fan should be incorporated. The compressors get hot an the mfr had ways to cool it that you might be circumventing.

I sure do hope for your sake someone will send you pics of an install and send plans for a typical install.

If you have a Dometic you need a whole bunch of different advise.

Like others, I am impressed by your "moxey".

John

2starbyrds · November 15, 2007, 10:25:16 AM

Thanks for the responce. I decided to look inside the frig and there was the book and yes it is a Dometic, sorry about the spelling error! It is Propane and electric model number RM 2652. It's a tiny thing, but we got a good deal I think we paid $700.00 someone ordered it then changed there mind. So...
The refrigerator must be installed in a substantial enclosure and must be level. All areas within the refir. enclosure must be sealed. And I will have to look but there is a length of sealing strip applied to the rear surface of the front frame for that purpose! How handy, there isn't a venting kit included so I will order one or make something. The muffin fans idea sounds great we have a couple of them that came out of something, a computer maybe. The interesting thing was the clearence specs which was "0" all the way around but it cannot sit on carpet it must sit on metal. Raiseing it off the floor will keep me from standing on my head while riying to find something in the bottom too!
Thanks for all your input!