How to properly block a bus?

[Paladin]

I don't want to hijack the other thread so I thought I'd start this one.
The news of someone getting injured or crushed is very sobering especially for someone like me who has yet to get under a bus although I know I must at some point.

Maybe someone could give me some pointers on the correct and safe way to block an MC8 and otherwise prepare it and myself to get under so I get to live to enjoy my bus?
I've got some railroad ties, is that a good start? Where should they be placed?


Other thoughts and suggestions?

-Dave

[H3Jim]

I'm sure others more knowledgeable than I will chime in, but here are a few things to consider.

Never use concrete blocks, or masonry, as they can crack or crumble.
Block it up using the jack points on the bus, or drive the bus up on ramps, or over a pit.

make sure the footprint of the blocking is large enough.  a bus is heavy enough to drive a 20 ton jack into asphalt or dirt, thereby lowering the bus.
Be aware of how low the bus can go or how far it can fall.

I drive mine up on wooden ramps.  Even if the bags are fully deflated, there is still room for me under there.
railroad ties are good, as long as they are not cracked.  Wood can still split and fail, and a bus has the weight to do it.

[HB of CJ]

The main thing is that the coach be very secure (thus safe?) while we are creeping, crawling, poking and messing around having fun underneath our very heavy coaches.

I have a Crown with a kinda conventional frame.  What I do may not apply with the GM's with no frame.  Go with at least four (4) lifting points---on the frame and not the straight axles.

If the secure points are on the axles, the coach still can wiggle and move since it is essentially on its suspension, only now higher and perhaps less stable.  The Crown has leaf springs.

Try to stay away from using wood cribbing.  Wood can suddenly split and crack and the coach can collapse.  This also includes raidroad ties which are probably used, old and...

...replaced out of service because they are suspect for RR use.  Yeah, bricks and cinderblocks are also a bad idea for the reasons already discussed.  That leaves only dedicated heavy duty lift...

...jack stands that are usually adjustable.   Stay away from the cheapo on sale at the big box stores.  They can have hidden major defects that could kill you.  Are we paranoid enough?

If you go with HD lift stands like I do, go with something heavy enough and go with the extra $$$ to buy quality (hopefully?)  and allow yourself enough overcapacity to be safe.

Hydralic jacks like the roll-around floor jacks are also a bad idea because you are essentially betting your health (and life?) on a valve that "locks down" the hydralics.  Stuff can fail.

Wow!  What does that leave us?  Yeah..the expensive, heavy duty roll up ramps are the best answer.  $Spendy$, but for a ten (10) to twenty (20) ton coach, think it thru.  Thanks. 

[HB of CJ]

Duh....sorry folks, but there is still more.  Forgot to mention that the coach should/must be NEVER on dirt or grass using jack stands, but maybe, just maybe--if you use the long lifting ramps--you can get away resting on asphalt.  Maybe.

Bottom line here is that good old strong concrete is the best surface to be upon before safely lifting your coach to work underneath it.  And...this all begs the question that a good, well designed, to code pit may be the ultimate safe answer.  Thanks again. 

[rip]

I made my ramps out of plywood. They are solid heavy and will not split.I ripped the plywood into 12" wide pieces and started with a 4 ft. piece and stepping each one back a few inches and cut a 45% angle on each. I ended up with about an 18" top and 12" high. Each piece was glued and screwed together.I made four when I was working on the bus. Just my way of doing it,but I felt safe using them.
     Don

[buswarrior]

In blocking up a bus to work on it, it is useful to have a block of wood, preferably made up of layers of glued and screwed plywood, which will neatly fit into the space where the axle bump stops are.

On an MC8, you need four, one for each steer, and one for each drive axle bump stop.

As the air bags settle, or if they suddenly fail (God is unhappy with you...) they blocks will prevent the bus from dropping to the stops.

see below for example using a 4x4.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[FloridaCliff]

Dax,

Here's how I block MY bus.

First I Air it up, Set 2X12"X24" on top of each other until I am up to the body
at the nearest two support points on each side, to the end I am working on.

I use,cut same size pieces of plywood to fill the gap within a 1/2"

This is on a 6" concrete floor.

Then when I go under I put 4X4 blocks under the axle bump stops.

I have a mini pit of 12" that I can scoot under anyway, but I like the margin of safety.

I also have 12" run up ramps made of 2X12, There is a 1' space before you run up to the next level.

I have 4 of these, two stay on the Bus and two at the shop.

There are screwed and glued together. 

Pre-drilling a smaller hole than the screw, ends the problem of splitting most pieces when putting them together.

There is a taper cut on the up ramp end of each board.

When using the ramps I block the front or back wheels to prevent movement.

Don't forget to set the parking brake. 

Cliff

[grantgoold]

I have always used railroad ties. Obviously they were designed for this weight. I use only new ties! I have ramps that involve 3 ties laying side by side (10 inches high and 7 feet long). I then drove bolt stock through all 3 ties and connected them together with with lock nuts. One bolt every 12 inches. We then took a large chain saw and cut the ramp at at about a 15 degree slope. We attached a stopper at the end of each ramp. They are heavy (two man suckers) but they do provide a sense of safety. In addtion, I always use the 20 ton air jack and block with smaller ties the side or area where I am working. In addition, I START this whole process with the bags all the way down!


I do have a friend that wants to give me some air bags used in heavy tows as an additional safety feature? We will see.

Crawling under these big things should scream safety, safety and safety. You just need to get to a place in your life where you are ok. that it takes longer to set up the safety equipment (redundant) than the actual repair or project. As a recent posting demonstrates, you only get one chance at this mistake.