8V92 Radiators

Nick Badame Refrig/ACC · August 23, 2007, 07:28:31 PM

Quote from: JohnEd on August 23, 2007, 07:23:45 PM
Nick,

My info was that a "light"coat of FLAT BLACK would enhance the radiation of heat by an appreciable(?) margine that made it well worth doing. Gloss, semi-gloss and other colors impeded the flow of heat and served as mils insulators. I do't think heat radiation is the only concern or motivation to apply paint. The corrosion angle comes into play....especially since you mentioned Pa. I was raised there.

All those pretty silvery alu. condensors should be flat black, I guess.

2 cents from long ago.

John

Thanks John..
Yea, I live 4 miles from the ocean here in Jersey. lots of salt....It's one of the reasons I keep the bus in it's house!
Nick-

Kristinsgrandpa · August 23, 2007, 07:36:06 PM

Nick, Eastwood Co. has some paint that is advertised as radiator paint. They claim it is very thin so it wont insulate the radiator. Pricey at $10-$11 per pray can.

Ed

Nick Badame Refrig/ACC · August 26, 2007, 02:27:13 PM

Hi folks,

I just completed building up both radiator core's into radiators. All together, 144 bolts, about 12 ft. of gasket material, liquid gasket coating,

and 8 hours today. last week I spent 6 hours wire wheeling all the rust off the top & bottom cans and the side supports. Then the next day

I painted the cans and supports with rustolium. Now, for the last leg of the project, pulling my radiators out of my bus to complete the swap.

I'm going to try and get it done this week. Maybe I can get away with only draining the radiators and not the whole engine??

Any advice on draining the rads down and refilling them would be appreciated!

Ed & John, thanks for the flat paint tips on the core's...

Thanks
Nick-

prevost82 · August 26, 2007, 02:56:39 PM

I would just drain the rad's Nick .... dump the coolent into a CLEAN bucket and reuse. Use a test strip after your first run.
Ron

Nick Badame Refrig/ACC · August 26, 2007, 05:35:18 PM

Quote from: prevost82 on August 26, 2007, 02:56:39 PM
I would just drain the rad's Nick .... dump the coolent into a CLEAN bucket and reuse. Use a test strip after your first run.
Ron

Thanks Ron..
Sounds like a plan.
Nick-

skihor · August 26, 2007, 08:19:02 PM

When I just had my heads replaced $$$$ they drained the system into a pan then poured it into a barrel. When putting it back in they used a sump pump in the barrel to put it all back in. The sump may not have enough power to pump up 6 feet so they put the barrel on a roll around bench first. The sump picked up all but 1/2 gal maybe which was poured into a i gal jug and poured into the rad. They did close the line going to/from the front heater core so that doesn't have to be drained/replaced. Good time to test the balance in your coolant also.

Don & Sheila

Nick Badame Refrig/ACC · August 27, 2007, 07:21:20 AM

Thanks Don.

Here is a pic of the rads filled with water while I test them for a couple days.

Should I preasureize them? if so, how many lbs?

Thanks Nick-

Brian Diehl · August 27, 2007, 09:53:31 AM

I don't know if you *should* pressurize them, but if you do ..

Don't exceed 7-10 psi as the max pressure in most of these older systems is 3 - 7 psi.

Sojourner · August 27, 2007, 10:11:18 AM

That is great radiator to cram into small space....looking good. Did they quote how many BTU it can handle?

About pressurize radiator before install in bus....yes by all mean. Pressurize air test at whatever your radiator builder said of psi. Coolant will leak quicker than plain water. If you fill with new coolant to pressure test...it may show that your gasket holding well due to slippery fluid.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry

Nick Badame Refrig/ACC · August 27, 2007, 01:49:35 PM

Quote from: Sojourner on August 27, 2007, 10:11:18 AM
That is great radiator to cram into small space....looking good. Did they quote how many BTU it can handle?

About pressurize radiator before install in bus....yes by all mean. Pressurize air test at whatever your radiator builder said of psi. Coolant will leak quicker than plain water. If you fill with new coolant to pressure test...it may show that your gasket holding well due to slippery fluid.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry

Hi Jerry,

No, no quote on btu's from the builder. Just the biggest they can cram in an mci.

The core is 7" thick on each.

The more I look at my old radiators, the more I'm thinking that they were not so bad. just rust around the frame
that is not part of the rad. There is a row or two that have fins flakeing off but, thats it.

Nick-

JohnEd · September 02, 2007, 12:27:32 PM

Nick,

Rad repair shops have a little pump and pressure gauge that fits the rad inlet. They pump it with "air" and watch the pressure gauge for an hour. Air leaks out pretty fast and shows a leak in an hour. They alos use that device to verify how many pounds your cap is holding as low pressure can allow boiling and coolant loss and (dread) overheating. I fear I am talking down to you and I apologize.

Thanks for your most informative posts.

John

DrivingMissLazy · September 02, 2007, 12:44:22 PM

Maybe vacuum test would be better and Nick for sure has the equipment to do that! LOL
Richard

Nick Badame Refrig/ACC · September 02, 2007, 01:25:56 PM

Hi Guy's,

I have had the radiators on a preasure test now for a week and holding 5 psi. [A OK] Plumbers plugs do wonders!

This past week we were too busy to tackle the swap. I'm hopeing to "get r done" this week, before a trip to Livingston N.J.

on the comming weekend to visit some relitives. Then the following weekend to Maryland, then off to Morrehead North Carolina

Oct 5th for the Eastern area Converted Coaches Rally. Fall should be a busy traveling time in the bus....

I'll send some pics of the rads when I get them installed.
Nick-

JohnEd · September 06, 2007, 12:27:58 PM

Nick,

For the record book I know you are assemblein:

What is the temp of the water going in and out after a hard pull.

Exhaust back pressure should be less than 3.6 psi. according to DD. Did you ever measure that and how did you do it?

Does your turbo make 18 to 21 psi. manifold? 8V92 DDEC III, right?

Thanks Nick, they look awsome and HUGE. I think you will only be able to overheat those with an open flame.

John

Nick Badame Refrig/ACC · September 06, 2007, 04:09:14 PM

Quote from: JohnEd on September 06, 2007, 12:27:58 PM
Nick,

For the record book I know you are assemblein:

What is the temp of the water going in and out after a hard pull.

Exhaust back pressure should be less than 3.6 psi. according to DD. Did you ever measure that and how did you do it?

Does your turbo make 18 to 21 psi. manifold? 8V92 DDEC III, right?

Thanks Nick, they look awsome and HUGE. I think you will only be able to overheat those with an open flame.

John

Hi John,

I never got a chance to install the rads yet. I forgot that one of my mechanics had a marlin trip planned this week in SanDiago.
So, needless to say.. I'm on the street this week. "no extra time for the rads swap"
As far as the hard pull test, I never proformed one. Turbo PSI??? I can hear the turbo going through tunnels.*%@#....
As far as power... The bus might pull a wheelie if my foot was able to push further then the stop bolt...Lol When the turbo kicks in,
I can feel the power ban almost like a 2 stroke dirt bike... "I said Almost"
I now have an appointment with Kieth Crawford on the 18th to replace the bad selonoid in my Jakes and to install the trans lock-up
selonoid that I obtained from Brian Deihl. I'm hopeing to have the rads in by then.. After that, off to MCI in A.C to get my $99 oil change
before the coupon runs out on Sept 30th.

Nick-