AIr to Air charger for 8v92
 

AIr to Air charger for 8v92

Started by luvrbus, August 01, 2007, 08:14:10 PM

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luvrbus

I had Bell in Texas build me a air to air intercooler for my bus and i have a question should i leave the stock after cooler in the engine or remove it and plug the water ports


thanks

TomC

Remove the aftercooler under the blower and plug the water lines.  The air to air intercooler is so efficient that the radiator powered aftercooler would probably reheat the air back up.  I installed an air to air intercooler on my 8V-71 and it works well-can really feel the difference between the in and out side.  Hopefully you had the intercooler made to flow 1500cfm with 4 inch hose openings.  Except for the 12V-71TTA (twin turbo aftercooled) the 8V-92TA has the highest air flow needed over any other engine available.  If your air to air intercooler is too small, it'll actually be worse than if you had left it alone.  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

rv_safetyman

The air to air has been one of the biggest challenges for my conversion.

I agree with Tom that you should remove the water to air unit.

I mounted my air to air on the passenger side (where the old AC was).  I use electric fans.  The first attempt was to blow outside air across the unit.  However, the large radiator fan caused the air to stall.  I then reversed the fans and pulled air from the compartment (not a good solution, but it helped).  I then got a larger air to air (about 50% more area) and made  a housing so that I pulled air from the outside and dumped it down out of the floor.  That way, the electric fans were not fighting the engine fan.

I have one of my fire detection temperature sensors mounted on the air to air tubing and some of my temperatures got as high as 250 degrees early on (I can't find a spec for max. air temperature, but I would guess it would be a lot lower than 250 degrees).  With the new air to air and the housing, along with a crude mister, I can keep the temperature down to about 170 degrees if I back off the throttle a bit (on long hard pulls).

My present electric fan arrangement consists of two 13 inch high performance fans.  They cover about 50-60% of the fin area.  I am using them as pushers.  I now have two more fans (14 inch) that I will mount as pullers so that they will cover the remainder of the fin area.  I think that will keep the air temperature in check.

BTW, if you doubt the impact of misters, I can tell you that they work.  We got into a hard blowing rain on the last trip.  The wind was into the air to air and as soon as the rain hit, the temperature immediately dropped 70 degrees!!

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10/Series 60/Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission
Somewhere between a tin tent and a finished product
Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog:  http://rvsafetyman.blogspot.com/

luvrbus

Tom, my cooler is 1650 cfm and has 5in hose connections it was made where the tubes and fins are in the same direction as my radiator so i should not have any air restriction.it just did not make any sense to me how you could cool air that was going into a after cooler the size of a heater core with engine temps at 185 the marine engines have a intercooler on top of the engine and go up to 750hp with a single turbo

TomC

Excellent! Will you mount it in front of your radiator?  I had space since the engine/transmission setup was for either a 96" or 102" wide.  Since mine is 102" wide, the radiator was in further to compensate for the extra width, that gave me the space in front of the radiator.  The only down side, is that it blocks some of the radiator flow, which I think would make a difference in cooling.  Maybe the right side with electric fans would be a good alternative.  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.