dreaded repair...
 

dreaded repair...

Started by coolbus, June 25, 2007, 08:41:02 PM

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coolbus


I greased the bearings on the radiator drive @$#'y (pillow blocks?) before I left on the trip home w/ my new bus. At that time, they looked as though they had not been greased for a long time.  :-\

As you can see in the pictures, the bearing seal (?) seems to have gone away.  :o

What is the best way to get at these? Which bolts need to come off to get the bearings replaced?  ???

It looks as though the shaft comes apart where there seems to be a rubber bushing (?) as seen in second photo.

I don't exactly know what I am doing, but I know the bearings need replaced.   :'(

Any tips, advise, opinions, complaints, help, or comments would be very much appreciated!  :)

HELP!

thanks
Mark






luvrbus

Mark that one looks easy just take the 4 bolt out of the 2 bearing and your belts should be loose and pull it out of the coupling and remove it out of the bus where you can see how the pulley comes off good luck

mc8 tin tent

Mark
  Looks like the bearings. are shot! The replacement should not be to bad if they have not slipped on the shaft. Use  plenty of rust buster or equivalent spray all bolts,set screws etc. next remove the belt,mark the flex connector(may not be necessary but get everything back in the same location ) unbolt the four bolts holding the pillow block bearings in place,remove the shaft assembly and clean it off(you may need to lightly sand the rust from the shaft),next check the bearing to shaft retainer (it should be held in place with ether set screws only or set screw holding an eccentric locking Collier ----look closely at the locking device the eccentric will have an untapped hole around the shaft from the set screw if it does remove the set screw use a chisel an  hammer firmly tap the locking Collier in the opposite direction  of normal shaft rotation to loosen  Collier an slide away from bearing,next mark the shaft using a hack saw or scratch awl ,remove the sheave by removing the two or three bolts holding  sheave to the inner hub an thread these into the holes next to where you removed the first bolts tighten the bolts evenly an press the sheave  apart  . remove the hub,bearings, etc. install new bearings( make sure you set the locking colliers toward the direction the shaft normally rotates.
  Hope this helps :)
Dwayne 

Dreamscape

They look like standard 2 bolt pillow block bearings to me. Get the numbers off the casing and race, should be able to find those pretty easy. Truck parts place, Kaman bearing are just to name a few.

Happy Trails,

Paul

Dreamscape

kyle4501

Take off the assy by removing the 4 bolts holding the bearings on. The coupling has a rubber spider that will slip apart by simply pulling apart. Clean the assy well & take it to a local bearing distributor. He can identify the bearings & get you the best price (usually). Show him the spider & get a new one (required if there is any play in the connection).

Have fun! The education has already started  ;D
Life is all about finding people who are your kind of crazy

Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please (Mark Twain)

Education costs money.  But then so does ignorance. (Sir Claus Moser)

coolbus

Thanks guys

It only seems like a dreaded repair to me because of the location of the bearings. Not sure how I will get myself back into that area - tight squeeze! I can only contort myself so as to get one arm at a time on the bolts. Will need to figure a way to back up the nuts somehow(?)

thanks again!

Mark

Barn Owl

Luvrbus is right, remove the bolts that hold the pillow block bearings on and remove the whole shaft/pulley assembly. It will be much easier to work on if you can do that. Pillow block bearings are not all that expensive and you have several different types of locking mechanisms to choose from, like set screw, taper lock, cam-lock etc. If they are really rusted on, take a hammer and bust the cast iron block off, and then torch the center race off. Use emery cloth to clean up the shaft If the new bearings are still hard to get on, use the old center race and a hammer to aid in installation.
L. Christley - W3EYE Amateur Extra
Blue Ridge Mountains, S.W. Virginia
It's the education gained, and the ability to apply, and share, what we learn.
Have fun, be great, that way you have Great Fun!

superpickle

I agree, that bearing looks to be missing some Testicles..

replace them for sure..  ;D

Paul...
Support Global Warming:
Drive an SUV.

Don4107

Can't really tell from the pix, but If you can get under it safely, put a box end wrench on the bolt head and go after the nuts from the bottom with a socket and extension.   With luck the wrench will stay on and wedge against something.  Just make sure it is not the radiator core.  The box end wrench will bounce off your forehead for sure (you are of course wearing your safety glasses)  but if you keep after it you will get there.   

Sometimes an impact gun will spin a nut off a loose bolt without holding the bolt at all.  Hint, leave the belts on to put some sideways pressure on the bolts until you get the nuts off.  If all else fails after you break them loose, put a pair of vise-grips on the bolt head to hold it while you remove the nuts. 

This from someone who works by himself a bunch.

Don, get a bigger hammer, 4107

Don 4107 Eastern Washington
1975 MCI 5B
1966 GM PD 4107 for sale
1968 GMC Carpenter

coolbus

Any chance someone here might have the part numbers for the bearings?

I haven't had time to get at these bearings yet, & I would like to have the replacements here when possible so I can  make it to Busin USA in two weeks!

I will need to replace the two fan belts at the same time. Part number for them too?

The bus is a 1967 Prevost Champion w/ 8V-71, Allison auto.

The only manuals I have are for a H3 (?) came w/ my bus

thanks!

Mark

tekebird

not too many early Champions running around.  Don't know of another one on this board that is active anyway.

If you want them on hand for the job I would call Prevost Parts and ask them.

Otherwise, pull them and get the numbers off them or take them to a bearing house and have them measured


coolbus

Yes, I noticed the lack of Prevost Champion owners... :-\

Hope thats not for some reason...  :-[

Lots of early GM's, Eagles, MCI's. What happened to the early Prevosts?   ???

Mark

tekebird

low production numbers...with most living in Canada and succumbing to old age/elements and the like.

Don't know of any bad traits


Sojourner

YIKE...YIKE....it look like it hasn't been grease along time...fitting is dirty coated plus very dry looking around bearing pillow block casting. Usually it is greasy  for normal. Good thing you are not break down else where.

Parts you need are industrial & machinery type. Prevost get them for a bearing supplier...not a special made part.
Look up for Grainger 1-888-361-8649 Monday-Friday, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week or any industrials supplier near by. Ask any manufacture near by to locate their industrial supplier with phone number. Unless you have a large phone book...look in industrial section.

Take the parts...shaft & what left of pillow bearing to get matching size. While this far into...get 2 sets. I am sure by now the other is get ready to blow.

This time be sure to get the correct manual so you can locate all your lube points & grease as manual requested. Then you can go with one less reason to break down.

Wish you well getting it done soon & be careful to limited your cuts & bruise. Hope none.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry

Dreamscape

 Take everything off, go to a bearing dist. They should be able to match everything. That way you can match it all, and buy the correct spares for the next time. If you grease it properly it should last many years, using the proper grease and the proper amount, you may never need to use the spares.

Happy Trails,

Paul

Dreamscape