Need help for Engine Cradle design for engine removal

[Gary LaBombard]

Hello everyone,
I have recently purchased a "Spare" engine for my 1973 05 Eagle (Just in case) in the future I end up needing it after all the problems I have had to solve on my bus conversion.  This engine will allow me to also rebuild it slowly after I have completed my conversion repairs etc. and finally get to drive my bus on the road
I plan to tear it down one day in the future, replace what needs to be replaced because of ware etc. and then pickle it for my future use or whom ever inherits my bus also will have ease of mind for an engine replacement if ever needed.  I do not have faith that my original engine is as good as I have been led to believe and the price of this (8V71) I just purchased from one of our Bus Nut family was just right for the investment even if it is never needed. 

I know, I know everyone says upgrade to larger power house etc. but I have no intention to invest that kind of money required to do this, with what may be left of my life longevity I will keep the original design of the power house of my bus as it was designed and take my time on the road if we can ever afford the fuel finally to use it.  That is another thorn in my back side & another subject.  I need to get my bus operating, and enjoy it to my fullest possible and get done these impossible projects that go on & on & on. 

Now how you can all help me, I do not want to take a lot of time to re-invent the wheel here on this project for the engine cradle, this is valuable time I can put on my bus so I could use help from some of your photos from some of you that have taken on this task of removing and reinstalling your engines.  Again I need this engine cradle for a (8V71) but I guess most cradles would be similar.  I am looking for ideas how to make mine using your ideas and input if you don't mind sharing any of this that is.   Any help will certainly be appreciated by me and perhaps by others on this bb'd considering doing this also. 

Now for an update what I have been doing since my back surgery in March.  I am enclosing a couple of photos of my latest completion of painting my 1989 Chevy S-10 pick up as the sun had taken it's toll on the original paint job and it looked terrible, and to save several thousand dollars to replace with a new truck I painted this one and she should last nearly as long now as I will.  Yep, I painted her completely with "Rustbullet" using the following procedure as I will also do with my bus when ready for paint.  This was a test to see how well it will look using only "Rustbullet" products on my truck body and then putting a gloss shine over it with clear coat only.  Now when you view these photos remember there is (NO) overcoat of automotive paint, only the clear coat.  I am very proud of her again, and I also painted the undercarriage, (frame & wheel wells) also with Rustbullet as I am now still doing with my bus.

After sanding the truck to true surface and removing all traces of original clear coat I painted the entire truck with 3 coats of Gray Automotive primer, then I masked off the areas I wanted to also apply 3 coats of rustbullet (Blackshell) which is real shinny and applied over the original Gray Automotive for a nearly a life time of protection.  After both the Gray & Blackshell were dried I applied 3 coats of good Clear Coat to protect and have a shinny surface.  I will submit a couple of photos of job for those interested.

Now this project is done I am now back working on my bus at a slower pace until I have full recovery of my surgery. 

Thanks ahead of time for any information you may be able to help me with on engine cradle design.
Gary 

[Gary LaBombard]

I had to do another post to put in a couple of other photos as My computer is messed up and I am unable to resize photos on the fly.
Sorry,
Gary

[rv_safetyman]

Hi Gary.

I assume that you are talking about making a dolly to remove/store/install the engine. 

If this is the case, I have a few pictures on my project pages:

http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject.htm

On page 2 you can see the 6V92 version.  On pages 5 and 6 you can see the modification I made for the Series 60.  These are thumbnails that can be enlarged.

The dolly is easy to use.  You simply jack up the bus, roll the dolly underneath, raise each of the mounts (slip joints; square tubing inside square tubing) and then lower the bus so that the engine/transmission is supported by the dolly.  Then simply roll the dolly out.  Not a terribly big job.

My shop floor is concrete, but I had to move the dolly outside once (dirt).  I simply laid down channel and rolled the wheels in the channel.

I think you will find that you will need a come-a-long on each side to pull the dolly in and out of the bus.  You will have to work each side a little bit at a time.  I did pull the dolly with the Jeep one time and it worked ok.  I will not work for pushing the dolly back in from my experience.

Jim

[Gary LaBombard]

Thanks Jim for information, you are right, it is the dolly I needed the information for and appreciate your input.  Hope you and Pat are doing well.
Gary

[Sammy]

Gary, I used the same dolly for an MCI and an Eagle, modified it a bit for the front mount in the Eagle.
There are plans in my MC-8 manual to fabricate one.
I can try to scan it as best as possible and send it to you.
I modified this style dolly to use it with the Series 60 and B500 in a Prevost H3-45.
It worked just as well, no problem.
Sammy 

[Hartley]

I hate back strain, I use "FORK LIFT" ....

Good for other stuff too.. Like moving stuff around, moving trailers, picking trucks up.
Makes a good hydralic jack . etc etc etc....

If you fabricate a dolly then you have to trip over it for the next 5 years....

[NJT 5573]

The Eagle manual for my 79 shows in depth drawings that are meant to be used with an inexpensive floor jack. My personal preference is to jack the bus up a few inches, crib the engine and transmission let the jacks down and roll the bus away from the engine.