Shift Problem D3 with Allison Push button shifter

[Sebulba]

Hello all,

Well today we made a short drive from Albuquerque to Santa Fe.  All went well...we backed into the RV spot that we will be at for a couple of months.  I went out to see if I was situated the way I wanted to be and I wanted to move over just a smidge.   So I went t0 put it in gear and the D shows up on the left display, but stays N in the right display. 

I shut down and tried again.  Same result.

I disconnected the main battery shutoff for 20 minutes in case the computer needed a reset.   Same result.

I did a diagnostic by pressing the up and down arrow.  It indicated 3 quarts low.  The dipstick didn't indicate that, but....  So I added 1 quart.   Again, the dipstick doesn't seem to agree.

Checked diagnostic again.  Now it says OK, but still won't shift into gear. 

Any ideas?

Thanks

Seb

[luvrbus]

Inside the battery box are resetable fuses they will be marked for the transmission and Allison recommmends using the pad to check the oil level not the stick,what are the temps there the B500 won't go into gear if below a certain temperature till it warms up,Yours sounds like a interlock is engaged do you have a handicap door ?

[Sebulba]

Inside the battery box are resetable fuses they will be marked for the transmission and Allison recommmends using the pad to check the oil level not the stick,what are the temps there the B500 won't go into gear if below a certain temperature till it warms up,Yours sounds like a interlock is engaged do you have a handicap door ?

I will check those fuses when I get back.

This happened at the end of an hour+ drive, so everything was warmed up.

Between the time it worked and it stopped working, all I did was walk to the back of the bus and back to the drivers seat.

Yes, it does have a wheelchair lift.  It isn't acting like when that was the problem before.  I can release the park brake and high idle isn't locked on.  And....the wheel chair lift door switch that caused that issue was removed a thousand miles ago.

Nice to know that the pad is the better way to check fluid.  It sure is easier.

I will continue to explore with these suggestions in mind.

Thanks a million.

Seb

[luvrbus]

You have schematics to show all the interlocks ,because they have more than one that will cause you grief,if you have the kneeling option most are interlocked on the MCI too 

[Sebulba]

You have schematics to show all the interlocks ,because they have more than one that will cause you grief,if you have the kneeling option most are interlocked on the MCI too

Hmmm, you know, now that you mention that,  I think when I went to hit the door to get out, I accidentally hit the kneel button (it's right next to it).  I wonder......

Won't be able to check for a couple of hours, on an errand now.

Thanks

Seb

[Utahclaimjumper]

I discovered some time ago that not all Allison electronic transmissions actually have the oil level sensors installed,, my 6030 does not and when using that method, always shows 1 quart low on the pad when the dipstick shows full..>>>Dan

[buswarrior]

Hmmm, you know, now that you mention that,  I think when I went to hit the door to get out, I accidentally hit the kneel button (it's right next to it).  I wonder......

Won't be able to check for a couple of hours, on an errand now.

Thanks

Seb

Winner winner...

Kneel and driving are not compatible...

Self inflicted wound, and self identified, so you get points for that.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Sebulba]

I discovered some time ago that not all Allison electronic transmissions actually have the oil level sensors installed,, my 6030 does not and when using that method, always shows 1 quart low on the pad when the dipstick shows full..>>>Dan

Oh boy, now the question is:  How can you tell?

Of course with mine it went from Lo 3 to OK, so I'm guessing it has it?

Thanks

Seb

[Sebulba]

Winner winner...

Kneel and driving are not compatible...

Self inflicted wound, and self identified, so you get points for that.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Well, thanks for the pat on the back, BusWarrior, but.... continues in the next post...

[Sebulba]

Hello All,

Got back from my errand yesterday and wanted to get this solved while the weather was warm (almost 60 degrees) and the bus was warm (had been driving it for over an hour).

Checked the kneel switch -- nothing... Doesn't seem to function at all.  Not sure why.  It worked when we took delivery, but no matter don't want the kneel feature anyway.

So here it is, and I'm not proud of this, I am doing the best I can.

As some of you know we are literally converting this while traveling and living in it due to necessary circumstances.

So I got to thinking that the Wheelchair door wires are a part of the wad of wires I was looking at.  Picture below.

As we drove from Florida to Albuquerque, we drove a few hours every day and spent a few hours every day doing demolish.  Mostly overheads, since we removed the seats on the leg from NY to FL.

I had read horror stories of people who got over ambitious with whacking off wires, so I didn't do that.  I, as carefully as I knew how, removed lights and such and left wires loose., but isolated, till they can be disconnected at the source and eliminated.  So in the front by the driver and by the door is a wad of wires.  They are "pretty much" isolated from each other.  I say pretty much because, apparently 2 of the wrong ones made contact and caused my issue. 

I discovered it by simply separating them and trying to shift.  Bingo Bango, I'm in business.

This begs the question and the task I knew was inevitably necessary --  disconnecting these wires at the source and then clipping them off.

I am impressed with MCI's wire labeling -- very thorough!  I guess the best approach to this may be to write down the tag numbers for these wires, then have my wife look at this list while I call out numbers in the terminal box under the drivers window.  A little like MCI Bingo   

Is there a better way?  That's the question. 

Again, thank you so much for all of your help. 

Seb

[Dave5Cs]

A toner works well also. You click the receiver to the wire you want to find and then use a wand where you think the wires goes or ends and it will sound when you hit it. All electric needs to be turned off to do it. Home depot on an electrical store sells them even Amazon. not expensive. You can also attach a 9 volt battery with clips to one end and use a multimeter at the other. Just some ideas. HTH

[chessie4905]

Harbor Freight circuit tracker. Works well. Used on my 4905 to locate wires at engine compartment from front. And other uses and fuse panel in house. (De-energised circuit).

https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html

[luvrbus]

You can take a Pro/Link and remove all the interlocks you choose and keep the ones you want.Those systems are easy once you figure out it has 2 parts ,the Detroit responsibilities and the OEM responsibility,lol I have blowned up schematics in laminates 2 ft x 2 ft for these old eyes to see

[Sebulba]

A toner works well also. You click the receiver to the wire you want to find and then use a wand where you think the wires goes or ends and it will sound when you hit it. All electric needs to be turned off to do it. Home depot on an electrical store sells them even Amazon. not expensive. You can also attach a 9 volt battery with clips to one end and use a multimeter at the other. Just some ideas. HTH

Thanks, will definitely look into this

Seb

[Sebulba]

Harbor Freight circuit tracker. Works well. Used on my 4905 to locate wires at engine compartment from front. And other uses and fuse panel in house. (De-energised circuit).

https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html

Thanks, will definitely look into this. 

Seb