Wiring for 220v or 110v?

[Jcparmley]

So you think that stove could be used in a bus?  Or is it too big?

The Heirloom stove is a tight unit and when closed down produces less than 12,000 btu. If I were heating with wood in a bus to help the furnaces or diesel air heaters it wouldn't be fired up unless it was deep cold and at that point wouldn't be too hot. I agree - nothing feels as good on the bones as wood heat does. IMO

[dtcerrato]

So you think that stove could be used in a bus?  Or is it too big?

Depends on your point of reference. If wintering in the bus in the great white north - no way is that stove too big but if galavanting in the 48 states - it would be an overkill. IMO
It's side loading feature is tempting though...

[Jcparmley]

Well I just picked it up for 200 bucks.  It's in great shape.  The catalytic converter is in good shape.  I will have to decide at some point if it will go in the bus.  If not I will clean it and sell it and use the funds for something smaller.

Depends on your point of reference. If wintering in the bus in the great white north - no way is that stove too big but if galavanting in the 48 states - it would be an overkill. IMO
It's side loading feature is tempting though...

[dtcerrato]

You got an excellent deal on your Dover Heirloom stove! I just uncovered a 2009 receipt for a replacement catalytic @ $127 for it as we've been using the stove since the early 90s.  It's almost unbelievable what the word inflation has done to our economy. Heck I remember when inflation only pertained to tires and beach rafts!
Geeze!

[Jim Blackwood]

There is also a space issue with the wood stove. You pretty much need enough room to be able to get around it to the sides and back for cleaning and maintenance. No practical way to put it in the basement, so it takes up living space that you could otherwise use. And then there's the fuel supply. While it's true you can get wood almost anywhere, campground bundles aren't gonna cut it. So you have to carry your wood and it isn't exactly a dense power source. And then there's the daily ash clean out to deal with. So over all, lots of work and inconvenience that would be perfectly acceptable for a workshop but maybe isn't the ideal solution for a bus.

Jim

Jim

[dtcerrato]

There is also a space issue with the wood stove. You pretty much need enough room to be able to get around it to the sides and back for cleaning and maintenance. No practical way to put it in the basement, so it takes up living space that you could otherwise use. And then there's the fuel supply. While it's true you can get wood almost anywhere, campground bundles aren't gonna cut it. So you have to carry your wood and it isn't exactly a dense power source. And then there's the daily ash clean out to deal with. So over all, lots of work and inconvenience that would be perfectly acceptable for a workshop but maybe isn't the ideal solution for a bus.

Jim

Jim

You forgot to mention IMO one of the most important things...
Most of the fuel for it you can get for FREE! Just imagine running a bus with a steam engine and free fuel!
Now that's a thought...

[Jcparmley]

Space is an issue in a bus, however I have a space planned out in my floor plan.  Yes, a wood stove is more work but since I am not going to be full timing and only using the bus on short trips I think I can deal with the extra work involved.  It would be nice to be able have a nice warm wood fire in the Wisconsin winters, which do get down to - digits.  This stove might be over kill but I can always test it and move to a smaller unit if I need to.

There is also a space issue with the wood stove. You pretty much need enough room to be able to get around it to the sides and back for cleaning and maintenance. No practical way to put it in the basement, so it takes up living space that you could otherwise use. And then there's the fuel supply. While it's true you can get wood almost anywhere, campground bundles aren't gonna cut it. So you have to carry your wood and it isn't exactly a dense power source. And then there's the daily ash clean out to deal with. So over all, lots of work and inconvenience that would be perfectly acceptable for a workshop but maybe isn't the ideal solution for a bus.

Jim

Jim

[richard5933]

Space is an issue in a bus, however I have a space planned out in my floor plan.  Yes, a wood stove is more work but since I am not going to be full timing and only using the bus on short trips I think I can deal with the extra work involved.  It would be nice to be able have a nice warm wood fire in the Wisconsin winters, which do get down to - digits.  This stove might be over kill but I can always test it and move to a smaller unit if I need to.

If you are not full timing are you really planning this bus to accommodate Wisconsin winters?

If so, I'm really interested in hearing your plans to keep the plumbing from freezing. That's a big step - making a bus suitable for sub-zero weather.

[Jcparmley]

The gray tank/water bay will be heated.  The fresh water tanks will be in the cab under the master bed.  All the plumbing will go through the ceiling of the water bay into the cab and be run throughout the cab.  So as long as the cab is heated and the bay is heated the plumbing shouldn't freeze.  This is my hope anyhow.  There are a few places in the north that I would like to see in the winter, so I need to have good heat.  Plus, if I ever want to go way north to Alaska (Bucket List Item) I will need to have all the plumbing protected.  Any other advice from you all who use your bus in winter please send me.  I don't want to make a mistake and forget something. 

If you are not full timing are you really planning this bus to accommodate Wisconsin winters?

If so, I'm really interested in hearing your plans to keep the plumbing from freezing. That's a big step - making a bus suitable for sub-zero weather.

[richard5933]

Haven't read (or don't remember reading) about your batteries, but if you are using lithium then obviously you'll need to keep them warm enough to charge.

Also, if you're relying on solar for any power needs be sure to use the winter sun angles when calculating their usefulness.

If use in sub-zero weather is planned I'd strongly suggest researching dual pane windows and some type of insulated curtain to hang between the cab up front and the rest of the bus. Really hard to keep that area warm with all the glass.

[Jim Blackwood]

Good idea to run all the plumbing downhill to a single drain if you can. (Obviously separate drains for hot/cold/etc)

Jim

[richard5933]

Might also be a good idea to build the freshwater system with extra low-point drains with easy access. Same for building in a way to blow the lines with water while on the road.

I can see lots of reasons why you might need to leave the vehicle unheated for a length of time and being able to reduce the chances of burst plumbing would be nice. A simple breakdown that requires the bus to spend a few days at a shop might turn into a minor catastrophe if pipes freeze.

[dtcerrato]

Filtered compressed air can also be used to blow water pipes dry. 10-4 on Alaska being on your bucket list. It was on ours and finally after 38 years we made it! Twice now. As you progress with your build out having that item (AK) in your bucket is good plus the knowledge & suggestions on this board. Having completed our in service bus conversion build out over 42 years ago prior to internet and forums - our conversion is dated to say the least but self contained by every measure of the words including the -67F antifreeze mix.

[Jcparmley]

Good point on the batteries.  I assumed I would have lithium but haven't purchased any yet.  My windows for now are stock MCI, however they are dual pane.  Eventually I will like to get new peninsula windows, but not quite yet. No solar yet.  Just can't fit that in the budget, but perhaps in the future.  Blowing compressed air through the system is a great idea.  I was planing on making it possible to fill the fresh water system with antifreeze when necessary.  Also, i was planing on having LP instant hot water that can be removed from the bus when not in use.  Am I missing anything else?

Haven't read (or don't remember reading) about your batteries, but if you are using lithium then obviously you'll need to keep them warm enough to charge.

Also, if you're relying on solar for any power needs be sure to use the winter sun angles when calculating their usefulness.

If use in sub-zero weather is planned I'd strongly suggest researching dual pane windows and some type of insulated curtain to hang between the cab up front and the rest of the bus. Really hard to keep that area warm with all the glass.

[richard5933]

Good point on the batteries.  I assumed I would have lithium but haven't purchased any yet.  My windows for now are stock MCI, however they are dual pane.  Eventually I will like to get new peninsula windows, but not quite yet. No solar yet.  Just can't fit that in the budget, but perhaps in the future.  Blowing compressed air through the system is a great idea.  I was planing on making it possible to fill the fresh water system with antifreeze when necessary.  Also, i was planing on having LP instant hot water that can be removed from the bus when not in use.  Am I missing anything else?

NEVER put antifreeze in the freshwater tank itself. You'll spend the entire season trying to get the taste and foaming out of the water. Instead make sure that the tank has a well-placed low-point drain with the valve in a heated area.

To run the antifreeze through the rest of the system (where it is relatively easy to flush back out) all you have to do is incorporate a T fitting and a valve just before the water pump. When it's time to pump antifreeze through the system you switch the valve so it pulls from a jug of antifreeze rather than the freshwater tank.

Make sure that your water filter can be removed easily so you can take it out before winterizing the system.

If you're not going to install solar right away it would be a great idea to do some calculations to determine the wire size you think you'll need and install that now. Go up a size or two in case your plans change, and then run the wires from the electric bay where you plan to put the solar charge controller all the way to the junction box just below the roof. Install a waterproof connection point on the roof and just cap it off for now. This way you won't have to snake those wires through a competed conversion later on.

While you're running wiring, you should also plan to run at least a few extra pairs of wires from the nose of the bus to the engine bay, and possibly a few others to key points such as from your interior house system control panel to the electrical bay. You'll make changes later on, so you might as well have the wiring in place.