Inside Back of a 102 D 3, How to finish wall

Sebulba · December 30, 2021, 08:42:58 AM

Hello All,

Contemplating putting closets, cabinets, paneling etc. on this back wall. It seems that behind the fiberglass/plastic cap there is some insulation. But beyond that?

I'm fearful of screwing into the back for fear of hitting coolant lines or whatever.

I would like to attach some furring strips and put some Pink foam insulation followed be wall material.

What have you all found to be the best way to attach to this?

Thanks

Seb

buswarrior · December 30, 2021, 09:33:29 AM

Eye ball in behind the rad/CAC, from the side, to see the outside of the back wall, and drive your screws accordingly?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Sebulba · December 30, 2021, 10:04:06 AM

Quote from: buswarrior on December 30, 2021, 09:33:29 AM
Eye ball in behind the rad/CAC, from the side, to see the outside of the back wall, and drive your screws accordingly?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

I was afraid you were going to say something like that.

Thanks

Seb

hogi6123 · December 30, 2021, 06:16:16 PM

In the '94 102dl3 we dismantled, there were a water tank and a coolant tank sealed inside at least 2 inches of foam. Several very solid metal frame members as well, right behind the wood. I will look for pictures.

hogi6123 · December 30, 2021, 06:38:42 PM

This is the best picture I have. I was told that there were several inches of foam behind the plywood and then the metal frame. I think it is 3/4" plywood. Above the cut-off part is where the water and coolant tanks were mounted buried in foam. Also there were several more metal crossmembers in the higher area that had been removed before this picture.

Bustle · January 02, 2022, 08:58:25 AM

Hogi, that looked like a water leak on the most rear driver-side window. I think I have the same leak from that rear window. Does anyone know where that water could be coming from? Is it coming from the window, or the skin seam between the rear cap, and the side?

Jim Blackwood · January 02, 2022, 09:48:59 AM

On mine I just covered that rear panel with pre-finished hardwood plywood, 2 sheets. I used a pilot drill for the screws, as there seems to be some sort of a bulkhead panel there, maybe aluminum, that the screws I was using didn't want to go through. Clearly there is a structural rib of some sort running across the midpoint at the angle so I put a line of screws into that as well as the trim screws, then I put a few widely spaced screws in to secure the rest of the panel. On those when I pre-drilled them I didn't feel the bit coming up against anything on the other side of the bulkhead panel so I think insulation is correct.

Jim

hogi6123 · January 02, 2022, 11:07:51 AM

Quote from: Bustle on January 02, 2022, 08:58:25 AM
Hogi, that looked like a water leak on the most rear driver-side window. I think I have the same leak from that rear window. Does anyone know where that water could be coming from? Is it coming from the window, or the skin seam between the rear cap, and the side?

The water on ours was entering through the rivet holes and panel seams behind the end piece of the roof gutter, on both sides of the bus. Maybe also through the last vertical panel seam.

I don't know exactly how to fix it but I am pretty sure those gutter end pieces have to come off to seal the leaks.

epretot · January 04, 2022, 07:09:49 PM

Quote from: hogi6123 on January 02, 2022, 11:07:51 AM
The water on ours was entering through the rivet holes and panel seams behind the end piece of the roof gutter, on both sides of the bus. Maybe also through the last vertical panel seam.

I don't know exactly how to fix it but I am pretty sure those gutter end pieces have to come off to seal the leaks.

I removed my gutters and used clear urethane to seal all of the seams behind them.

It was an arduous task. My method was to make a few wedges from scrap lumber. Use a hard wood as you have to drive them. The gutters had two types of sealant securing them.

One was a rubber butyl and the other appeared to be a traditional butyl caulk. I removed the screws and used a prybar to get a small gap. Then I drove the wedges from the top down every 6 inches. You can hear the sealant release.

I removed the adhesive with a heat gun, sanded, cleaned and painted the metal behind the gutters.

After sealing the seams, I ran a bead of clear urethane where the top of the gutter meets the bus. Then I just applied sealant in a "m" pattern on the larger area before reattaching.

I only have one leak under a window. The rivets that hold the bumper rail.