Considering removing the rails that the seats bolt in to. MC9

[buswarrior]

Your defroster heat exchanger is built into the dashboard. You have to maintain the piping that feeds the big coach heater, as the defroster lines are extended off those.

The trouble with a coach traveling, it gets cold in the back. Function of where the suction is when you hurtle a brick through the air.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[TheHeavenlyChillbillies]

Let me ask you this.  If the front, say 2 sections, of the duct were there.  And the back sections were removed.  Would the heater still function?  Because leaving the front ducts intact and removing some in the back would actually solve my issue.

So the intake on the ramp would still be there...the actual HVAC system below would be intact...just removing some of the back ducting.

I am generally the only person in the vehicle when it's moving, the nature of my work/travel shouldn't take me anywhere near snow, ever...so if the back is a little chilly on occasion that's fine.  If it still basically spits some hit air out and doesn't interfere with the defrost I should be ok.

(Please understand I'm not trying to argue

[buswarrior]

in your first baggage bay, the front wall is a plywood board.

Find the fasteners and open it up, the world will be revealed!

Run the coach, turn on the coach heat switch, and you'll feel where the air is blowing, now that you have a panel off.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[buswarrior]

yes, you could keep the front and abandon the back.

Find the outlets, and see if it fits your design plans?

A boring box fan would drive some heat back there, should you want that.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[buswarrior]

A further note, that plywood panel covers the HVAC fan cavity, the cavity is under suction when running. The plywood cover must be snug, tight and well sealed, or whatever is going on in that first bay, will be sucked up into the coach.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[TheHeavenlyChillbillies]

Thanks for the info!  Exactly what I needed.

I bought a queen sized bed that has drawers that come out the side and that 5 or did inches on either side will actually make a bid difference in functionality and overall movability.

So I'm going to keep the OTR heat up front and take out the back sections where the bedroom and shower are going.  Thanks again for the help!

[richard5933]

You could probably find another way to duct the heat to points in the rear of the coach, if you wanted.

If it's only the back bedroom that's the problem, then you could probably just terminate the duct at the wall/partition and cap it with a register through the wall pointing into the bedroom.

There is something really nice about pulling over for a break and having the whole bus warm - makes laying down for a nap more comfy.

[TheHeavenlyChillbillies]

I actually just ripped all of the walls out.  It's going to be one big open space...so heating cooling should be fairly simple.

Now that it's all open the mini split I just put in seems to be cooling everything pretty well....and it's a black bus in Florida sun.

The new wanscoting and window treatments I'm putting in should make it even better heating/cooling wise.

I'll keep you all posted.

[TomC]

When I removed the under heating system (no A/C since it was a Portland, Or bus), I kept the big heater core. Had it pressure tested, then installed 2-14" radiator fans. Installed it lengthwise in the hall under my closet, and washer/dryer. Have 4-vents that just aim out into the hallway. I also have a ball valve to turn the water off to the heater core, but still allows water up to the defroster up front that also has a ball valve at the driver's seat. My point-you don't need any duct work for this heater. When it kicks on, I can count to 10 and start feeling heat at the driver's seat. Works very powerfully. Good Luck, TomC

[TheHeavenlyChillbillies]

Awesome.  Yeah...I started ripping the duct work out today.  I'm just gonna put little grates over the openings.  The job is way harder than it needs to be.  The big Philips head screws holding in the aluminum rail are just spinning...so there's a lot if grinding going on.  Other than that it's moving along

Funny.  I got my bus in Portland as well.

[brmax]

Hammering on those big Phillips head screws work like a charm for me except one. They are soft, so carefully follow up with lite hammering on a phillips bit to straighten it up for a secure Impact bite. let them have it!

Good day
Floyd