Considering removing the rails that the seats bolt in to. MC9
 

Considering removing the rails that the seats bolt in to. MC9

Started by TheHeavenlyChillbillies, March 27, 2020, 10:07:33 AM

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TheHeavenlyChillbillies

Hi guys.
Can someone talk to me about the ramifications of removing the rails along the sides that the seats used to bolt in to?

1984 MCI MC9
1984 MCI MC9 - 8v71
Located near Gainesville, Fl

oltrunt

I'd be curious to know why you want to remove those rails.  I found them very handy to use to secure the kitchen counters, stove and frig. I realize that take up a bit of width at the floor level and make building walls a pain because they have to be cut around but they can be quite handy.  Someone else will have to talk about possible engineering issues with the bus itself.  Jack

TheHeavenlyChillbillies

It's mostly the floor space.  I'd rather not have to lift or modify everything I put in.  That being said...you make a good point about anchoring things to it.

I'm curious about the technical implications...it looks like the cabin heat may come out of the driver's side.
1984 MCI MC9 - 8v71
Located near Gainesville, Fl

buswarrior

Are you talking about the duct work, or the channel that the seats bolt to?

Removing the duct opens up the floor, but how are you going to stay warm on the road? Nothing beats the stock coach heat.

Going down the road, the heat gets sucked right out, many a busnut regret removing the duct work and the heating system...

And many don't mind. It all depends how you will use the coach, in what geography, and what the inhabitants have for expectations of personal comfort.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

TheHeavenlyChillbillies

So most of that stainless steel is the duct?  Ok.  I deffinately don't want to remove the heat.  I'm wainscoting the walls and ceiling...I'll just start it above the ducting.  It should still look cool :)
1984 MCI MC9 - 8v71
Located near Gainesville, Fl

sledhead

I removed all mine . then installed a vent of my own to direct the heat to the front and back under the couch that was on each side of the coach . big mother fan under the floor that moves a ton of hot air and there are cold air return vents near the back of the coach on each side . you want to save the wire heat prob that is on the driver side near the back

this was on a M C I 102c3



dave
dave , karen
1990 mci 102c  6v92 ta ht740  kit,living room slide .... sold
2000 featherlite vogue vantare 550 hp 3406e  cat
1875 lbs torque  home base huntsville ontario canada

buswarrior

Quote from: TheHeavenlyChillbillies on March 27, 2020, 12:57:18 PM
So most of that stainless steel is the duct?  Ok.  I deffinately don't want to remove the heat.  I'm wainscoting the walls and ceiling...I'll just start it above the ducting.  It should still look cool :)

Yes, your picture highlights the duct. The floor and the wall make up the other surfaces inside.

Many busnuts will disassemble the panels, so as to clean inside, there will be a carpet of dust/goop/stuff along the floor. And then put 'em back. Be careful that you note their positions, they aren't all the same, and watch the split feed and air return ones, and the seal inside to keep the air flow correct. The rear of the coach will be cold, if you corrupt the feed/returns.

I will specifically disassemble mine, to be sure the return/feed in the back is sound. Previous owners, assembly line workers and the ravages of time cannot be trusted... many a seated coach are cold down the back, and don't need to be...

Make up a pattern/jig for its shape to facilitate constructing your interior.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

TheHeavenlyChillbillies

Great.  Thanks for the info.  Great idea to make a jig.
1984 MCI MC9 - 8v71
Located near Gainesville, Fl

ol713


   HI;
      I removed mine over 20yrs ago  - - - -  no problem
                                            Merle.  :D

ktmossman

Mine are coming out this week (hopefully)...but I also plan to provide anchor points for installations (seats, fridge, etc.) and new ducting in the build (MCI J4500).
Kevin Mossman
2006 MCI J4500
Dallas, TX

lvmci

Hi Chillbillies, I kept mine, floor and low side wall seat hold downs, upper wall and ceiling luggage rails to anchor the lower cabinets. the seats anchors, kitchen and bath cabinets,  and upper I-beams for wall securing. Then used the upper I-beams and low side seat rails for raceways for wiring, also, if the NTSB says it will hold seats and luggage in an accident from flying forward, it should keep my fridge and oven and shower from doing the same, lvmci...
MCI 102C3 8V92, Allison HT740
Formally MCI5A 8V71 Allison MT643
Brandon has really got it going!

TheHeavenlyChillbillies

Follow up clarification!
So the metal running along the floor...those are the actual ducts for the OTR heat?  Where is the actual heater...by the engine?  Still weighing the removal.  With the current/new furniture situation that extra foot of space would actually be really handy.  The bus doesn't really get driven in the cold weather.

I removed one of the panels and was expecting the find a bunch of ducting and wires.  I'm trying to understand what Buswarrior was talking about when he said it connected directly to the outside.
1984 MCI MC9 - 8v71
Located near Gainesville, Fl

richard5933

Give this some serious thought...

You'd be surprised how many times at the start and end of a season we run the OTR heat, especially in the morning.

Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

TheHeavenlyChillbillies

Where does the heat come from?  Does this supply the hot air for the windshield defrosters?

What I'm wondering is if I can't just blow hot air from the rear to the front.

If it's disabling driver heat and defrost that's one thing...but the amount of times, if any, that OTR heat would even be a consideration on this vehicle is a few days a year tops.

I understand the value of it...I'm weighing the alternative.  Lik having to permanently modify every piece of furniture going against a wall.

My thought is if the heat come in from the back I can just blow it up front for the few times it might be useful.  Again...I'm not disregarding the value of the OTR heat ...just trying to make an informed decision.
1984 MCI MC9 - 8v71
Located near Gainesville, Fl

buswarrior

There is currently a busnut attempting an emergency run for home to Canada all frozen up in Montana, running through a snowstorm, with no coach heat, the propane has run out, and the baggage bays are frozen shut, covered in ice, preventing filling the propane...

Choose wisely...

The coach HVAC guts are up front, to the rear of the front axle, under the bus. It is in behind the batteries, there is a little angled door in with the batteries for the air filter.

The fresh air comes in through those grates on either side of the coach, in the area above the battery compartment, and same on the other side.

The output from the HVAC enters the ductwork via a hole in the floor. Somewhere under the first or second duct panels from the front.

There is a return air portion from the rear, and the main intake is in the space where that ramp or step is immediately beside/behind the driver, centre of the floor.

I would be studying both the maintenance and parts books to fully understand the gift that the stock hvac is, before tearing it out.

Any time that the temperature is less than shirt sleeves, you will want heat in the coach.

Your choice is what is going to make that heat for you.

And, you never know when you might want to/be forced to, run.

happy coaching!
buswarrior






Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift