Little setback today...

Jim Blackwood · February 06, 2020, 08:38:10 AM

Also, and being a welder I expect you know this, any time you make a weld on a frame, do your utmost to make sure you don't make vertical welds. The classic example is grafting a replacement stub on one end of a frame rail. Welds should be stretched out in the diagonal to spread the load and avoid creating a stress riser which can lead to cracking. Which is why you used to see diamond shaped frame splices. (sorta frowned on by DOT these days I've heard)

Jim

luvrbus · February 06, 2020, 02:02:54 PM

The MCI 96A used Corten steel 6011 or 7018 is what MCI recommends for welding

DoubleEagle · February 06, 2020, 04:46:35 PM

Which one you use will depend on whether you have AC or DC equipment. The 6011 will work on AC or DC+, but the 7018 works with DC+, and you have to keep the rods dry. 7018 is a smooth flowing rod, and the metal will be stronger, but if you get the flux moist or it cracks, you have to throw it out.

Jim Blackwood · February 07, 2020, 08:29:04 AM

There's also a 7018AC rod but it isn't as smooth running as 7018 rod on DC. Harder to start, but it can make a good weld once it's going. For MIG I wouldn't trust anything less than a 220v rig for this kind of work.

Jim

6805eagleguy · February 07, 2020, 09:22:06 AM

unless you are a full time structural welder you are going to have a very hard time welding 7018 out of position.

Also: https://www.keenovens.com/articles/7018-storage.htm

Jim Blackwood · February 07, 2020, 09:51:17 AM

Excellent point, the puddle needs a little support to keep the filler from falling out. Not a great choice for an amateur laying on his back and that bottom edge is going to be a PITA regardless as will the lower diagonal. 7018 would be a challenge there no matter who you are. Might want to pick a rod that is good on overhead welds.

Jim

6805eagleguy · February 07, 2020, 05:12:40 PM

My preferred rod would be 6013 or 6010, 6013 is really nice to burn on the flat, 6010 better for overhead, depending on experience range.

luvrbus · February 07, 2020, 06:40:49 PM

I have been using LH70 rods 7018 they are called now since the 60's I don't find them that hard to run LH70's is all we ever used to repair heavy equip

DoubleEagle · February 07, 2020, 08:00:43 PM

Quote from: 6805eagleguy on February 07, 2020, 05:12:40 PM
6013 is really nice to burn on the flat

It sure is nice on clean flat metal, but it does not penetrate as well in any other position. Anyway, he needs the best rod for Corten, and a bus rotater for the vertical welds.

He might have to pre-fabricate repair panels that don't need vertical welds, or use heavy rivets or bolts. We have not seen pictures yet, it might be very difficult to repair.

6805eagleguy · February 08, 2020, 06:52:20 AM

Everybody has their favorite rod, I won't go more into that

Andy, could we see some pictures?

lvmci · February 08, 2020, 09:15:26 AM

This may or may not apply, I've seen Gary and Van at B&B take a front fire and another rear fire buses, both Prevost, cut the bad parts off and marry them together. Probably will cost more than buying another and just transfer all your goodies, lvmci...

Van · February 08, 2020, 11:53:11 AM

Quote from: lvmci on February 08, 2020, 09:15:26 AM
This may or may not apply, I've seen Gary and Van at B&B take a front fire and another rear fire buses, both Prevost, cut the bad parts off and marry them together. Probably will cost more than buying another and just transfer all your goodies, lvmci...

Ah those were the days my friend, second chances.

AndyinCT · February 08, 2020, 04:40:15 PM

Quote from: 6805eagleguy on February 08, 2020, 06:52:20 AM
Everybody has their favorite rod, I won't go more into that

Andy, could we see some pictures?

No idea why these are upside down...

buswarrior · February 09, 2020, 03:14:16 AM

Take it to a bus body guy.

I've seen ones with all the "lattice" chewed up, welded up and down the road.

There are different acceptable short-cuts to re-inforce all that. Find the old guy who has fixed dozens of these to make the call.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

luvrbus · February 09, 2020, 06:57:01 PM

It's been patched once before so the only way to do it right is slide the engine out and go for it.I have a MCI 9 here at the shop the towing company bent the drivers side engine rail down a 1-1/2 in and inward about 2 inches if the frame guy coming is unable to straighten it with out it breaking. I am going to need to cut the rail out and start over a job I am not crazy about doing because of the cost to the owner the young man has soaked a lot of money into the bus already