Kitchen and Bath Wood Countertop?

[TomC]

I was going to use Silestone Quartz on my kitchen and bath counter top. First I choose Tea Leaf-not made anymore. Then I choose Blue Sahara-not made anymore.
So I came up with an idea-why not use a wood butcher block counter top? Has anyone of you done a wood counter top? I realize you can't cut on them (we use a cutting board anyway), and not place hot pots on it. What's you opinion on a wood countertop? The rest of the truck has a lot of wood (oak and birch). Thanks! Good Luck, TomC

[richard5933]

We have one on our kitchen island at home. Got it from the pre-fab section at the local Menards. Best I can tell it is made from glued up birch.

We've had for about 10 years now, and we do use it for cutting on daily, but only for veggies. Also use it for hot pots without a problem. About one a season I'll give it a wipe down with cutting board oil, and about one a year I will scrape it down with a cabinet maker's card scraper to give it a new surface for the next year.

Really enjoying having the wood counter top and eventually will do this for all the counter tops except immediately next to the sink. That will have a stainless area to keep the moisture off the wood.

[windtrader]

I've seen live edge wood slab used for countertop, if that is your aesthetic.

[TomC]

Went by Home Depot today, they have Birch butcher block counter tops. For instance 8' 2" x 2' 1" x 1.5" thick laminated is $269.00. 8ft x 4" x .708" back splash is $39.00. 6'2" x 3'3" x 1.5" is $229.00. $537.00 total for both bathroom and kitchen counter tops, and I can install it myself. As compared to Silestone. Good Luck, TomC

[richard5933]

Sounds just like what I found at Menards. Get a good supply of light mineral oil (or your cutting board oil of choice) as the butcher block will soak up quite a bit. If you have a farm supply near you, that is a good place to find it. Helps to heat the mineral a little bit - thins it out and helps it soak in better.

[luvrbus]

Tom the problem you are going to have with a wood counter top living where we have no humidity is you are going to need to control it or the wood is going to pot.We have Silestone in the house it is good stuff and Corian Granite  in the RV.I would stay away from wood unless you can buy solid Maple since it retains the humidity better than most hard woods,check it out I think you need around 40% humidity to keep it good shape I have a humidifier for the Cherry wood in the RV   

[TwoFeathersRD]

One new option that just came to the market is made by Wilson art. Its 1 inch thick and designed for RV. They have many options with more on the way.  There is some which give you the wood look. Its printed and textured.  You can router any edge shape you want. We may use it in our Show Bus we are building.

[windtrader]

no worries with moisture with concrete countertops. 

[richard5933]

I've got the birch laminated 1.5" thick counter in my kitchen. As long as you install it in a way that it can move with the seasonal humidity swings you'll be fine. Try and confine it or keep it from moving and you will discover the ability of wood to warp and/or crack. I mounted mine with slotted screw holes using oblong washers made just for this purpose. The edge against the back of the counter is fastened tight - the front edge is free to move. You can figure about 1/4" of seasonal wood movement per foot of counter width.

[luvrbus]

I live in the desert with 8% to 12% humidity don't kid your self it will take a toll on wood no matter how it is attached ,when you park a rv you fill the sink water to help if you don't have a humidifier lol that why you don't see many houses built here with wood 

[richard5933]

I live in the desert with 8% to 12% humidity don't kid your self it will take a toll on wood no matter how it is attached ,when you park a rv you fill the sink water to help if you don't have a humidifier lol that why you don't see many houses built here with wood

Sounds like you have about as much humidity there as during the winter up here. With heaters running, our indoor moisture levels will easier drop that low for months unless a humidifier is used. Then in summer it can approach 90%.

I spent many years earning a living making furniture from solid wood. The difficulty wasn't dry air, it wasn't humid air, it was the change from one to the other. It takes practice and special techniques to make a solid wood dinner table that can survive the winter without splitting, and still survive the summer without warping. It can be done.

We've become so accustomed to synthetic materials and the ease of care they bring that it's easy to lose the old school methods for making things from natural materials.

[luvrbus]

Not the same Richard we also have the 100+ heat to go with humidity

[TomC]

I'll talk to the wood manufacturer tomorrow about my application-if they suggest it. Thanks All! Good Luck, TomC

[Gerry H]

The wife wanted something inexpensive to begin with so she chose a Formica premade countertop from Menards. Quite inexpensive, after 10 years, we somehow developed a roof leak that of course leaked on our stovetop counter. In a matter of hours from an overnight rain, the Formica delaminated and press board swelled up making it ugly and unusable.
My next choice will be waterproof, probably Corian like she has in the house, scratches easy but can sand out and re-polish. Gerry H

[neoneddy]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkqqygfnEVI/

I bought mine from menards, ripped a bit off because our counters are skinnier than normal.  I used that as a back lip to keep things from falling down.

I finished it with a butcher block finish stuff that kind of soaks in.  It's not oil like boiled linseed.  So far it's held up well.