Lifting & Supporting the Bus

buswarrior · May 04, 2019, 01:00:55 PM

Wow, blast from the past!

Thanks and you're welcome!

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Ed Hackenbruch · May 04, 2019, 03:16:06 PM

I used a 4x4 that way and had it break in the middle of the night while we were sleeping. Sounded like a gunshot and thought that something ran into the bus when it dropped down the 4 inches. Made a different type out of steel pipe.

GnarlyBus · May 04, 2019, 03:42:19 PM

Whoa! We're all 4 corners blocked when it failed or just 1 or 2?

buswarrior · May 04, 2019, 04:16:27 PM

The wood being used needs to start out as good quality, and needs to stay that way.

Recovering used hardwood dunnage, hardwood skid materials, etc is one way to not spend money on store bought lumber. You'd be amazed at the quality lumber that is being used to prop up loads and then discarded.

If it has started to crack, it doesn't get used for cribbing/blocking purposes anymore.

There is no need to be scared of lumber.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Lin · May 04, 2019, 04:22:53 PM

Do you crib or use jack stands for a backup if you are on ramps?

chessie4905 · May 04, 2019, 04:53:42 PM

GM recommends using a piece of large pipe that will fit over the bumpers. About 10 or 10 1/2" . You raise coach with leveling bags and place pipes over bumpers. This is for replacing differential, but will work for other servicing. Shorter ones will probably be ok for other work.

buswarrior · May 04, 2019, 06:13:13 PM

Whatever you put into the axle bump stops, make sure it is loose fit...

The air suspension has to build back up to get off your prop, and depending on what you've been doing...

Be a whole new adventure if you can't get them out of there.

put them in place, then stabilize by letting some air out of the suspension, if it doesn't do it for you on its own.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

chessie4905 · May 05, 2019, 03:58:52 AM

After raising coach by disconnecting levelling arm links and moving lever, you install spacer and move lever to lower coach down on spacers. The spacers should fit over the bumpers with some clearance. 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

richard5933 · May 05, 2019, 05:02:11 AM

Quote from: chessie4905 on May 05, 2019, 03:58:52 AM
After raising coach by disconnecting levelling arm links and moving lever, you install spacer and move lever to lower coach down on spacers. The spacers should fit over the bumpers with some clearance. 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

Sounds like this only works for someone with a pit. How else can you gain access to remove the links? Any suggestions for those working on a slab?

buswarrior · May 05, 2019, 06:14:36 AM

You block the suspension after you get it in the air.

Get coach in air
block suspension
do work

happy coaching!
buswarrior

richard5933 · May 05, 2019, 01:50:52 PM

Quote from: buswarrior on May 05, 2019, 06:14:36 AM
You block the suspension after you get it in the air.

Get coach in air
block suspension
do work

happy coaching!
buswarrior

I got that part. It sounded like chessie4905 was saying that you use the air system to get the bus elevated...

"After raising coach by disconnecting levelling arm links and moving lever"

If I could get to the leveling arms links to move the lever, I wouldn't need to raise the bus or be worried about blocking it.

Jim Blackwood · May 05, 2019, 02:26:00 PM

Need a leveling/jacking system that bypasses the leveling valves it sounds like.

Jim

chessie4905 · May 05, 2019, 02:29:36 PM

If you use enough of a ramp to safely get under, you have room to sit up in front and rear axle areas, although it is tight, especially if you are over 250 lbs. Then you can unhook links and manually operate levers. Make sure you have full air pressure so you don't run out halfway, and have spacers in hand. If you have axle blocked with wheels off, you can access them that way. I went down to shop and measured the bump stops in compressed condition (Bags deflated). Pipe for rear needs to be 4" id and front needs to be 3 3 /4" You only need 1 0 inch ones for back axle if you are removing differential. Rear can be 8" and fronts probably 6 inches. Use pipe, not tubing as it would collapse. A coach leveling system would make this much easier. Btw, release all pressure from bags after installing spacers and tie lever in a way that it doesn't try to again inflate bags until you are ready to do so.

Dave5Cs · May 05, 2019, 04:29:07 PM

Whats even better if you make 4 ramps. Put one in front of each tire and drive the coach up on to them all. Then you can air jack it up higher if you need to after chocking both sides of the other wheels. Block up or use stands accordingly.

buswarrior · May 05, 2019, 04:35:47 PM

The confusion...

Raising the body in relation to the axle makes more room to do work. In some cases, the work is impossible with the body at ride height, it needs to be higher.

This can be accomplished by jacking the bus high into the sky and lowering the axle, or by jacking part way to the sky, and manipulating the leveling valves to raise the body, and then blocking it way up there.

It is all this sort of preparation that takes time and physicality, such that there will not be much actual "work" accomplished, the first time you play this game.

A busnut typically runs out of cribbing, and has to go find more, gets the jack stuck someplace, has to go back and air up the coach over and over, find a step stool to climb into the coach, then has to put it back on the ground because the wheels won't loosen off... remove all the fasteners, muscle the wheels somewhere out of the way, fight with leveling valve rusted/seized pins...

The beer in the fridge is shrieking your name...

That's all for today...

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior