Master switch no power

[Jcparmley]

Where is the black box you are referring to? Also, when I flip the master dash switch and the dash is energized should I see the transmission shift panel light up?

No lights no run there is a black box with all the ground connections check there and check the box under it for power all the power supply and grounds are there in the battery box

[luvrbus]

Where is the black box you are referring to? Also, when I flip the master dash switch and the dash is energized should I see the transmission shift panel light up?

Yes the pad should lite up .the ATEC and the DDEC both get power from the same source in the battery box 

[Jcparmley]

Ok, so neither the DDEC or the ATEC light up when the master dash switch is engaged.  So I will test terminal J in the rear box.  Where is the black box that I need to test for grounds? 

Yes the pad should lite up .the ATEC and the DDEC both get power from the same source in the battery box

[luvrbus]

You just have the wiring wrong from the batteries and cut off switch

[Jcparmley]

These are two diagrams I have from the manual.  These don't tell me much.  Is there any other resource that I can use that can tell me how to wire the battery box the correct way?

You just have the wiring wrong from the batteries and cut off switch

[thomasinnv]

ECM schematic is 7L-13-1580

If you have no power to the ecm fuses (there are 3 of them) then your wiring is wrong at the batteries. If you have power there then proceed and check the following...

You already determined you have a bad breaker feeding the main switch, so either fix it or temporarily bypass for the purpose of proceeding with the testing.

With the main switch on, check for power on stud 14 in the front box. From there power goes to the rear juction box stud 24 and 25. From stud 25 to main bus bar via wire 3-BK-14, through a 6 amp breaker, then to stud 53 via wire 6-BL-16, then to the rear engine run switch and then to remote control box horizontal stud 9 then back to rear junction box stud 54. Stud 54 then feeds the ddec relay via wire 6A-BL/YL-16. The relay feeds the 12v diag ports and the ecm, and power for the indicator lamps.

Are you thoroughly confused now? To put it in simple steps, first make sure the rear start switch is set to front and the run switch (remote control box in the engine bay) is set to run and not off. Turn on the main switch and check for power on stud 14 front box. If you have power there and everything is as it should be check for power on the ddec stud 4 in front junction box.

[thomasinnv]

There are 3 little black boxes above and to the right of the batteries. One is ground, 12v, and 24v. You should have 3 10 guage wires, one from each black box, they are the main feeds to the boxes from the batteries. The 12 and 24 volt wires are labelled as such. 24v goes on positive cable of right side battery, 12v goes on positive of left side battery, ground goes all the way on the left. Pop the covers open on the black boxes and check voltage to chasis ground on each one and make sure they are correct.

[luvrbus]

You drove it home and it ran so it should run again without to much trouble shooting this started when you changed batteries right ? pull all the fuses till you get power to fuse plugs and it should go

[thomasinnv]

I'm with Clifford on this one. I would do what he said. Pull all the ecm/tcm fuses and correct your wiring at the batteries, verify voltages at the ecm fuse sockets, reinstall fuses and go varooom.

[luvrbus]

Be sure the batteries are hooked up in the serial giving you 24 V they won't do anything hooked up in parallel (12V)

[Jcparmley]

Ok, I checked the three ECM fuses and they are all getting 12volts through the fuses.  None are blown.  I am getting 24 volts on stud 14 in the front panel.

I am not getting power on stud 24 or 25 in the rear panel.  Nor do I have power on stud 4 in the front j box

ECM schematic is 7L-13-1580

If you have no power to the ecm fuses (there are 3 of them) then your wiring is wrong at the batteries. If you have power there then proceed and check the following...

You already determined you have a bad breaker feeding the main switch, so either fix it or temporarily bypass for the purpose of proceeding with the testing.

With the main switch on, check for power on stud 14 in the front box. From there power goes to the rear juction box stud 24 and 25. From stud 25 to main bus bar via wire 3-BK-14, through a 6 amp breaker, then to stud 53 via wire 6-BL-16, then to the rear engine run switch and then to remote control box horizontal stud 9 then back to rear junction box stud 54. Stud 54 then feeds the ddec relay via wire 6A-BL/YL-16. The relay feeds the 12v diag ports and the ecm, and power for the indicator lamps.

Are you thoroughly confused now? To put it in simple steps, first make sure the rear start switch is set to front and the run switch (remote control box in the engine bay) is set to run and not off. Turn on the main switch and check for power on stud 14 front box. If you have power there and everything is as it should be check for power on the ddec stud 4 in front junction box.

[thomasinnv]

Not stud 4 on the main panel in front, stud 4 of the ddec panel. The ddec junction panel is mounted on the right side wall of the front electrical junction box.

I will double check the schematic but I believe it is a direct run from front stud 14 to rear stud 24 with nothing in between. Double and triple check to make sure you are testing the correct studs.

[luvrbus]

My DDEC is the J terminal in the rear box K is the engine shut down friggin MCI changes schematics like people change socks

[thomasinnv]

JC what year did you say your D is?

[luvrbus]

Mine has to read that the shift pad is in neutral before anything works I ran into that when the fuse holder for the pad in the front box broke and shorted out