Fantastic Vent Fan

[richard5933]

I was thinking more along the lines of keeping the escape hatches functional. Think that would be possible?

Jim

Interesting thought - you're talking about cutting a 14x14 hole in the hatch itself, correct? I don't see why that wouldn't work, assuming that the latching mechanism is not going to be in the way of the hole that needs to be cut. The wiring could easily be put on a detachable cord.

How is the hatch itself constructed?

[Jim Blackwood]

I haven't looked at it except to make sure it opens but I do think it has a fairly long handle on the inside. Maybe on the outside too. so working around that would be part of the challenge. Right now I don't think there is anything to keep it from just flopping down on the roof of the bus so that would be another concern. I'm thinking it might be possible to cut the hole close to the hinges though, and partial blockage by the handle shouldn't really cut down airflow to amount to much. Might have to reconfigure the outside handle or the vent cover, or both.

Jim

[MagnoliaBus]

Before you weld up an escape hatch to a smaller opening, you might consider if one of the hatches could provide a handy access to the roof.

I've wished more than once that we could just pop the hatch and get to the roof with a step stool from the inside - it would be much easier than dragging out the extendable ladder and getting there from the outside.

I dont plan to have to go on the roof. If i go solar, it will be with loose panels that you prop to reach maximum efficacity (i guess you have to move them every half our or so)...

[richard5933]

I dont plan to have to go on the roof. If i go solar, it will be with loose panels that you prop to reach maximum efficacity (i guess you have to move them every half our or so)...

Understood. I guess I don't 'plan' to go on the roof, but sure enough there are times it's necessary. That's why we carry a telescoping ladder.

We also use a ground deployed solar array - allows us to park in the shade while our panels are in the sun recharging the batteries.

[Jim Blackwood]

The latching mechanism is a 1/2" rod that runs across the middle of the hatch. I think it might be workable. The body or cap is aluminum and the bottom is plastic or fiberglass.

Jim

[richard5933]

The latching mechanism is a 1/2" rod that runs across the middle of the hatch. I think it might be workable. The body or cap is aluminum and the bottom is plastic or fiberglass.

Jim

Seems like you could easily fabricate a mounting flange for the FF on top of the hatch that would allow the hatches mechanism to stay in place under the FF. I'm picturing a 1-1/2" tall collar made of aluminum square stock which has an inside measurement of 14x14, trimmed on the bottom to follow the roof contours. It would provide a place for the FF flange to mount, and it would keep the FF high enough to still have access to the screen over the top of the hatches mechanism.

[Jim Blackwood]

Yeah, I'm thinking maybe you move the handles (inside and outside) over to the side of the hatch cover. They rotate the rod to latch, pretty similar to the bay door latches. That would open up the middle, just with the rod running across. The fan could go inside the hatch and attach the wind cover in the standard manner.

The inside handle is recessed so a little fiddly work there to get it to look right. Might be similar on the outside.

Jim

[windtrader]

Maybe I missed it but is there any specific benefit by placing fan in hatch? Seems just as much work to install in hatch as in the roof while it is opened up.  With the fan mounted it will need support to keep from banging the roof and will no longer open flat.

[RJ]

Jim -

There is no exterior handle on the escape hatch, interior only.

There is also no "stop" mechanism to keep it from flopping over completely when opened.

Back in my charter days, we used to prop the front and rear hatches open with a couple of unlit fusee flares when parked to get a little air flow.

I often used the rear hatch to access the roof on my MCI, either to change a clearance light bulb, install a new antenna, place the Tailgater for better satellite reception, or even washing the bus.  I miss the fact my current coach doesn't have that option!

FWIW & HTH. . .

[bevans6]

The roof escape hatch in my bedroom is a major benefit to actually having a bus in the first place - built in passive safety.  The last thing I would do is put an air conditioner there.  A front hatch - maybe - but my bus doesn't have one.  I did remove a Fantastic Vent to install an air conditioner just behind the driver.  With an MCI that has a central structural frame member I simply offset the air conditioner to one side.  Works just fine, parked and on the road.

Brian

[Jim Blackwood]

Thanks RJ, that's good info to have and makes planning much easier. No need to worry about what can't be seen at this point then. Excellent.

I have no desire to start cutting holes in the bus. If I can make an existing hole serve double duty without losing the original function I very much like that option. And it seems to me that a gas strut might do a very nice job of holding the hatch cover vertical when open. Finally, it seems feasible to simply remove the cover, mod it on the bench, and then re-install with the gas strut, fan and vent cover in place. Or, I can fit the gas struts first making the hatch easy to use for airflow while I'm building the RV and add the vent later. My guess is that will become increasingly desirable as summer comes around.

Jim

[lvmci]

Hi Jim, I did use my two escape hatches for AC installation, a third hole cut for the AC in the kitchen area along with a fourth roof hole in the kitchen, for the fantastic fan in the kitchen and covered the kitchen side area bus windows and recut in, a sliding window with a screen. Giving her great ventilation during boondocking, because she cooked with a gas stove. But I did leave all the escape side windows, except the covered central area for the kitchen and bath. I cut another roof hole for a 2nd fantastic fan half way over the shower stall for ventilation of the shower humidity and over the bathroom sink, lvmci...

[richard5933]

I finally got around to installing the hidden intake vent in the rear of the bus. I installed it under the couch at the rear of the bedroom. It allows outside air to be pulled in from the somewhat hidden space between the engine bulkhead and the rear axle bulkhead. Sheltered from the rain, but I'll keep it closed while the engine is running to be certain we never inadvertently pull in exhaust fumes. Made a big difference in the way the Maxxair fan runs - now it's not working so hard to move air when the windows are closed.

[chessie4905]

Personally, I wouldn't want to pull air from that area. Oil smell, gear oil smell, asbestos dust,etc. Now that you've  done it, install a charcoal type vehicle air filter over it. By the way, that nose vent is 4 inches in diameter with mash covering it, reducing the effective surface area to about 3 inches. Not near enough flow to satisfy the vent fan even on low. The fresh air intakes on either side should help.

[richard5933]

Personally, I wouldn't want to pull air from that area. Oil smell, gear oil smell, asbestos dust,etc. Now that you've  done it, install a charcoal type vehicle air filter over it. By the way, that nose vent is 4 inches in diameter with mash covering it, reducing the effective surface area to about 3 inches. Not near enough flow to satisfy the vent fan even on low. The fresh air intakes on either side should help.

Charcoal filter might be a good idea, but right now I don't notice any odors or dust coming from underneath. I think I have some charcoal filter material left from my wood shop's filter that I can cut to fit that.