replacing wheel bearing and seal

David Anderson · March 25, 2019, 05:13:39 PM

Quote from: chessie4905 on March 25, 2019, 04:25:43 PM
I've heated the lining a few times with a propane torch. It causes the lining to sweat out the grease.Then wipe and spray with lacquer thinner or brake clean. Repeat a couple of times. Bearings packed with synthetic grease don't leak all over the lining and drum like the oil does. Just sayin...

The lining is pretty much soaked, so it looks like new shoes for both sides to keep them matched. I was wondering about grease packing. That would eliminate oil leaks. Is that ok to do on these wheels? I agree with TomC that both sides should have new seals as they look original. I'm going to pull the other side an replace the seal while I'm doing this. I've seen posts before about switching to grease. Give me the details the best way to do that.

Also, the dinged up dust shield has not interference with the seal mating to the axle. It doesn't touch the seal. I'm thinking about replacing the air cans on each side. They look original also.

BTW all my brake shoes were replaced 2002. They have 110k miles on them. There was a lot of pad left on these I pulled off.
David

David Anderson · March 25, 2019, 05:26:45 PM

I had a tough time getting the shoes off. Took some hillbilly engineering to get the springs off.

David Anderson · March 25, 2019, 05:28:21 PM

If you look closely at the picture you can see the spring hook was in the hole in the brake lining along with the spring clip. Is it supposed to be that way. I couldn't release it until I got it onto the floor.

The second picture has the hook placed where I think it should land. Is this correct?

David Anderson · March 26, 2019, 07:40:52 AM

Let's talk about parts. I can read the part numbers on the bearings and seal.

one Bearing is Timken 3782 cone 3720

one bearing is Bower HM212049 cone HM212011

Seal assembly is CR 35066

The Bower number crosses over to Timken. There is a huge swing in pricing online for these. I read on truck forums of the difficulty in finding good American made bearings and seals and the rapid failure of Chinese knockoffs. How do I find the parts that are reliable? I only want to do this once

chessie4905 · March 26, 2019, 07:50:22 AM

Check with Bearings Inc.

lostagain · March 26, 2019, 08:01:28 AM

There should be heavy commercial truck parts stores where they'll have what you need. Also any city will have bearings stores. I find it easier to go to a store with my used parts in hand, where they can look them up, cross numbers, and order what they don't have for next day.

JC

buswarrior · March 26, 2019, 08:15:40 AM

Reliable, reputable analog, bricks and mortar store.

We do this to ourselves, buying online, unknown sources, and then lament the closing of another old school retail outlet.

If we don't buy the simple stuff from 'em, they won't be there when we need the complicated?

Support your neighbour, buy stuff from stores, help pay their wages, keep their kids in school, etc etc

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Jim Eh. · March 26, 2019, 02:08:09 PM

FWIW you could also switch over to Scotseal Plus XL. Part #35058

Much easier to install (just make sure you coat the sealing surfaces - inner and outer - with gear oil prior to installation).

BTW, you are correct in assuming the heavy return spring does NOT go into the pin hole.
Several ways to reinstall. Some put the heavy return spring on both shoes and slide the assembly onto the spider with the return spring holding the two shoes together. Then install the anchor side (smaller) springs on last using a large flat screwdriver to slip the bottom hook into the lower anchor pin shoe hole.

thomasinnv · March 26, 2019, 03:19:39 PM

You need bearing set 406 and set 413. As for the seal, depends on if there is a sleeve installed on the spindle where the seal lip rides. If there is no sleeve and the seal surface looks good, use seal number 370001A. It is a 2 piece seal assembly and works very well. The 2 halves of the seal rotate against each other eliminating wear on the seal lip of the spindle surface. If there is a sleeve installed on the seal lip surface of the spindle use seal #382-8036. It is a seal and sleeve set.

If replacing the bearing cups yourself without a hydraulic press, put them in the freezer overnight. Use a map torch to heat the cup surface of the hub, grab the cup from the freezer and it will almost drop right into place. I usually cut a slit through the old inner cup at a 45 degree angle and use it to install the new inner cup. (Remove the cup first. Cutting the old cup allows it to flex enough to be easily removed after using it to drive the new cup in)

David Anderson · March 26, 2019, 06:25:53 PM

Great ideas and instructions. I can probably get all this stuff at San Antonio Brake and Clutch.
There is no sleeve on my axle.

I called Luke today and they change out all their oil bath hubs with grease. Pack the bearings with grease and fill the hub about the same amount as the static level of oil and forget it. I guess pack the seal too since it spins with the hub. Looks like it will be a challenge to get much grease in the seal.

David

chessie4905 · March 27, 2019, 04:17:26 AM

I've been preaching this for years. Not enough benefit for oiled bearings in our use. Oil soaked brakes is the result of a failed seal.

David Anderson · March 30, 2019, 04:17:22 PM

Quote from: thomasinnv on March 26, 2019, 03:19:39 PM

If replacing the bearing cups yourself without a hydraulic press, put them in the freezer overnight. Use a map torch to heat the cup surface of the hub, grab the cup from the freezer and it will almost drop right into place. I usually cut a slit through the old inner cup at a 45 degree angle and use it to install the new inner cup. (Remove the cup first. Cutting the old cup allows it to flex enough to be easily removed after using it to drive the new cup in)

Man, this was a fantastic help. You were right, it nearly fell to the bottom of the flange. Just a little tap and it was set. When the frost went away it was tight as a drum head.

I bought all my parts Friday and went to install the new shoes and they are too small around the radius, with the rollers not touching the S cams. The parts guy had my old shoes on the counter. How did he miss this? There were no readable numbers on the shoes. Does anyone know the shoe number for an Eagle model 10? The shoes were 5" wide. Frustrating since he has my core shoes. Back to San Antonio Monday to try to resolve this. Grrrr!!!

David

luvrbus · March 30, 2019, 08:56:43 PM

Quote from: David Anderson on March 26, 2019, 06:25:53 PM
Great ideas and instructions. I can probably get all this stuff at San Antonio Brake and Clutch.
There is no sleeve on my axle.

I called Luke today and they change out all their oil bath hubs with grease. Pack the bearings with grease and fill the hub about the same amount as the static level of oil and forget it. I guess pack the seal too since it spins with the hub. Looks like it will be a challenge to get much grease in the seal.

David

lol how many years have you owned that Houston Metro Eagle bus David in all the years you have a leak and going to change 1 side of the bogie to grease that going to be a odd set up.BTW those shoes are the the as the Mack R series front axle

chessie4905 · March 31, 2019, 03:51:42 AM

If you use grease, you don't need or use the more expensive seal within a seal.

David Anderson · March 31, 2019, 07:04:06 AM

Quote from: luvrbus on March 30, 2019, 08:56:43 PM
lol how many years have you owned that Houston Metro Eagle bus David in all the years you have a leak and going to change 1 side of the bogie to grease that going to be a odd set up.BTW those shoes are the the as the Mack R series front axle

I'm changing both sides. Doing this has been much easier than I expected, but having the parts guy give me the wrong shoes is frustrating.

So if I tell the guy they are "Mack R series fronts" will he find the correct shoes?
David