Building the 102DL3 (continuation of "Bumper" thread)

[Jim Blackwood]

Images 5 and 6 show the rear of the passenger's compartment. There must be a way to remove those white panels but I haven't figured it out. Apparently they only removed the topside lavatory components.

And finally, seat removal. It took maybe 1/2 hr to go from photo 4 to photo 7, maybe 45 minutes if you include getting and putting away the tools. 4 11/16" zip nuts on each seat pair, the plastic covers had a screw only on the outside, they can be pushed out of the way to get a socket on the nut. A 3/8 impact worked fine for 3 of them and a 1/2" impact and extension for the 4th.

Maybe that's a lot of detail but if this thread is to be what the title says I think it needs the detail.

Jim

[DoubleEagle]

Jim, take it slow and relish in the fact that you got a running bus made by a company that still exists with a fresher engine than you thought, for a very good price! Not bad for a newbie. Even if you discover some mechanical flaws, so what, it made it from Connecticut without breaking down. The manuals can be had in paper and on disk, and they will be necessary at many points. The first thing you will need is the driver's manual, which will detail the controls and operation. If you want save money, try to do everything yourself. Being self-reliant is not just financially wise, it is deeply satisfying. Going down the road knowing that you are fully aware of how the coach functions, and not being at the mercy of mechanics of unknown virtue, is priceless (because no one is paying you to do all that work). Don't forget that this process will go on for years (even decades), so enjoy the ride. 

[lostagain]

Photo 5 is of the access hatches into the top of the engine and transmission. They are very important. Do not cover them up and block them. You would regret that in the future.

JC

[Jim Blackwood]

Thanks guys, and I will follow your advice. I'm not in any hurry, I have about 5 years to make it roadworthy and if I manage to do it before then that's just gravy.

I do all of my own maintenance work. I have maintenance manuals of some type for every piece of equipment I own. Grew up on a farm and learned to be self sufficient so I'm not afraid to tackle any task I have the tools and equipment to do. For what it's worth past experience includes rebuilding a D4 Cat dozer including new liners, pistons, bearings, hydraiulics etc, though we did let the shop do the head. This bus is now the biggest thing here and is a pretty big step up, but I think I can figure out how to do things. So far I'm pretty impressed with it. Can't hardly believe I traded my dirt bike for it.  (well that's what I'm claiming, actually I sold the bike and used the money to buy the bus) Man, did I ever get a good deal there.

Tomorrow I'll get a good photo of one of the seats and list them for sale. Definitely the local craigslist. Awhile back I ran across a site that sells a lot of bus seats so I'll try to find that again. They were mostly asking about $75 each, I'd certainly take a lot less than that.

Then I guess the search is on for manuals, both an operator's manual and a maintenance manual. I've looked but I have no idea where to find a serial number unless it's the last part of the VIN. Acquiring manuals to find out where to look to get the serial number in order to get the right manuals is an obvious Catch 22. I was hoping for some help with that. I also have yet to find the tag with the weight limits and tire pressures but I wasn't looking for that one. Maybe in one of the bays I suppose.

Jim

[luvrbus]

The tire specs and vin number are in the stairways on the left side below the door latch ,the manuals are the same except for a few supplementals you pay extra for,don't waste the money on parts books they are all MCI numbers.Sam Caylor in Ks (cayor supply) has used manuals 785-873-3405.Doesn't appear looking at the hatches you have Jakes on that one unless just on the front 3 cylinders   

[Jim Blackwood]

I suspect you are right about the Jake. We don't have the kind of mountains there are in the Rockies. I attached a couple of photos, maybe it's possible to tell from them.

Found the ID plate, thanks. I'll see about those manuals.

Also here's a module that doesn't look like it was original, if anyone might recognize it.

Going forward I'll try to curtail my unnecessary posts as they don't seem to be appreciated and just ask about things that I have already researched and haven't been able to find answers for. BTW, BW you are the one who convinced me that the D series was the way to go. But I'll not blame you when things don't go right.

Jim

[buswarrior]

This is the best piece of posting seen in a long while:

Quote:
Going forward I'll try to curtail my unnecessary posts as they don't seem to be appreciated and just ask about things that I have already researched and haven't been able to find answers for. BTW, BW you are the one who convinced me that the D series was the way to go. But I'll not blame you when things don't go right.

Unquote

This is a hobby for self starters, definitely not for followers...

You will enjoy the D model.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[luvrbus]

Strange the vin and tire plate doesn't show the rating for the 315 x 80 x 22.5 tires on that DL only the 12r's

[Fred Mc]

I, for one, enjoy your posts even if they do get a little "wordy" at times. I also enjoy that many of us on here,myself included, also like to help someone else spend their money. And ,in the end, just like standing at a magazine rack,I can also choose, not to read it.
Over the years (Ive been here since the beginning) we've seen lots of guys make lots of boastful claims that made us wonder what the guy was smoking. So its kinda nice when someone actually does what we may consider impossible-like -ummm- removing the seats in less than an hour.

[Geoff]

Since the bumper thread started, I have had time to build a 400 sq ft loft in my shop.  By myself.

[buswarrior]

Seats came out easy, because they were re-configured at some more recent time in the coach's life.

Someone else got to curse at the original frozen fasteners.

But don't tell Jim, we have to keep his morale high!

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Jim Blackwood]

Not true.
There was no corrosion. The bolts were either a 7/16 or a 1/2" (in the track) with an 11/16 hex zip nut (hardened flange nut with serrated teeth). No corrosion in evidence. One had to be removed with a cheater bar, it was up on the side wall. The rest came right off. Some seats had been removed but I see no evidence that the others were moved, but even had the nuts been rusted solid, a cheater would have done the trick. The nuts on the floor had plastic covers. The only possible exception would be if the bolts in the track had turned. Then it would have been a mess and the criticism would have been dead-on. (heat wrench required)

Jim

[windtrader]

No worries fella. We can all bet our bank accounts that there will be more than a few occasions when Jim underestimates a 30 minute job, moaning and wallowing about his wallet being emptied of all the benjis. The saving grace in this build is a 5 year timeframe which allows for maximum time scouring the vast wasteland of used bus parts for the lowest cost options. Plus being flexible what the end product needs will help ensure it's "done" at some point.

[Jim Blackwood]

You'd make your bet, though I'm not so sure about the "moaning and wallowing" bit. Yes I have a budget and yes I expect to exceed it. Transportation is just that way, so is any kind of construction. It's a given, so why complain? BUT, I've done well so far. Wanted a bus in good nick delivered to my door under $8K, done. (actual $6675) Wanted a genset under the usual $2-3K, also done. (actual $700, 8KW propane) Seats are completely out of the bus in under 2 hours. So far I think I've met every goal on those items completed. Granted that won't always work. AND I am at just over the 50th% mark on time estimating, which is to say I often miss by a factor of 2 or more but that still makes me slightly better than average. Seems OK to me.

Now for more info, the seats were anchored in using 7/16" NF "T" bolts in the floor rails, basically turn and lock, designed for more leverage on removal than on installation. A very good design. Leaves a rail in the floor that could accept a LED strip light:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-3528-5050-5630-SMD-12V-Waterproof-300-LED-Strip-Light-String-Ribbon-Tape-Roll/152607377699?hash=item23881bc923:rk:1:pf:0&var
Very cheap, so I may consider it.

Anyway I think that BW is dead-on right, I think I'm going to really enjoy this bus, and I think I'm going to enjoy building it. Happy to have all y'all along for the ride.

Jim

[sledhead]

when I got my old beater I had to use a grinder on lots of the seat bolts but did sell the seats for $750 .only down side was I had to deliver them
but that was only 1/2 hour away

oh the joys of the conversion

you got lucky with no wash room . that was a real pain the @$# to get out

dave