Using original MCI Windows

[Jcparmley]

Has anyone done a roof raise and used the original MCI Windows?  I am asking because I am trying to figure out how to install the original Windows.  My plan is to use firing strips and screw the plywood onto the strips.  But that would make my wall thicker than the original.  I am worried the latch mechanism won't work on the OEM Windows if the wall is thicker than usual.  Any help on this would be greatly appreciated

[buswarrior]

if you are going to keep the original windows, where are you going to cut for the raise?

It's just trim around the deeper holes, same as your house.

Don't sweat the theoretical losses around the perimeter, you'll have 'em regardless of what window goes in there.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

I'm going to cut at the window frame, raise the roof, place in a spacer, lower roof, weld in spacer and re-frame for window.  My windows are double pane so I wanted to keep them.  Plus, I don't have money for new ones.

if you are going to keep the original windows, where are you going to cut for the raise?

It's just trim around the deeper holes, same as your house.

Don't sweat the theoretical losses around the perimeter, you'll have 'em regardless of what window goes in there.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[buswarrior]

I'd leave the window frames and hinges intact, cut it above or below...

Below might be simpler, no drip rail issue, simple flat panel to add, lower to ground, safer...

Getting the window frames back the way they should be, size and square, will be a bear if you cut 'em...

Stock double pane windows are as good as anything aftermarket, so I support that choice.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

I was planning on using these spacers like Bjorn did in this pic I took from his YouTube video.  I'm wondering if I cut below the window if I can still use the spacer technique.

[buswarrior]

Sure, why not?

Adapt the technique to whatever tubing/framing is below the window line?

Your choice how many elements of complication are involved in your roof raising.

Every joint, screw, connection, rivet, overlap, you touch, create or interfere... it is all time, work, and potential for leak and heart ache.

Minimize the work, minimize the intrusion, minimize the time.

Have you read Fred Hobe's stuff on roof raising? He jacked a lot of roofs in the air before the internet.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

Good point.  I like the idea of not messing with the window frames.  I will leave the first two Windows where they are, however I will need to move the rear windows toward the front so they end up in the middle of the room. 

Bus Warrior, what is your thought of placing two mini split unit under the rear cap and installing louvers that would let the air flow through the cap.  Perhaps even using modern louvers from a D Series coach like in this pic.

Sure, why not?

Adapt the technique to whatever tubing/framing is below the window line?

Your choice how many elements of complication are involved in your roof raising.

Every joint, screw, connection, rivet, overlap, you touch, create or interfere... it is all time, work, and potential for leak and heart ache.

Minimize the work, minimize the intrusion, minimize the time.

Have you read Fred Hobe's stuff on roof raising? He jacked a lot of roofs in the air before the internet.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[buswarrior]

I'm all for unconventional thinking.

My concern about the rear of the coach, is the rolling turbulence that curls behind as the coach goes down the highway.

All the dirt, dust, sand, oil, water and anti-freeze that passes or drips under the coach, gets blown onto the rear, from the roof to the bumper.

AC condensers typically have a lot of deep fins, that I would fear will ingest this oily debris which will not be easily cleaned. Remember that those units will be sucking in at full tilt to keep the coach cool while going down the road, the air intrusion at highway speed puts more load on the AC than while sitting still. The performance of the HVAC may deteriorate for no fault of its own. (Then we get an unfair "mini-splits are crap, I put new roof airs, what a relief" stories)

You will also get to listen to the machinery within so many inches of your head while trying to sleep. When conditions allow/demand, I prefer to run the HVAC furthest from the bedroom on as low a setting as possible for noise abatement purposes. With the exterior guts just thru the wall, you will have no choice about that source of noise.

On the positive side, the interior space above a traditional center bed rear bedroom is somewhat useless, the storage space requiring climbing on the bed to access. Using that volume for the AC units has some space use efficiency.

These condenser units cane be mounted side by each fairly closely, respecting some airflow calculations for the distance... remind me, what is happening with the rest of the under floor spaces that these two can't be squeezed in somewhere?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[lostagain]

Echoing BWs comments, I drove and maintained a D3 for a hockey team for several winters. A lot of road grime gets into the rad and inter-cooler compartment through those louvers at the back, resulting in serious corrosion. The newer cars have done away with those louvers at the back and have them at the sides. They also use more corrosion resistant components. I would not put ACs on the back of the bus.

JC 

[Jcparmley]

I was planing on placing one AC Condenser in the OTR AC Bay.  I have the rear bay filled with the plumbing.  One side of bay 1 will be the generator quiet box.  The rest of the bays are open for storage.  My concern of placing another two condensers in the bays is air flow.  I would be interested in seeing how others used their bay space for mini splits.  Hopefully someone will read this thread and send some pics.

I'm all for unconventional thinking.

My concern about the rear of the coach, is the rolling turbulence that curls behind as the coach goes down the highway.

All the dirt, dust, sand, oil, water and anti-freeze that passes or drips under the coach, gets blown onto the rear, from the roof to the bumper.

AC condensers typically have a lot of deep fins, that I would fear will ingest this oily debris which will not be easily cleaned. Remember that those units will be sucking in at full tilt to keep the coach cool while going down the road, the air intrusion at highway speed puts more load on the AC than while sitting still. The performance of the HVAC may deteriorate for no fault of its own. (Then we get an unfair "mini-splits are crap, I put new roof airs, what a relief" stories)

You will also get to listen to the machinery within so many inches of your head while trying to sleep. When conditions allow/demand, I prefer to run the HVAC furthest from the bedroom on as low a setting as possible for noise abatement purposes. With the exterior guts just thru the wall, you will have no choice about that source of noise.

On the positive side, the interior space above a traditional center bed rear bedroom is somewhat useless, the storage space requiring climbing on the bed to access. Using that volume for the AC units has some space use efficiency.

These condenser units cane be mounted side by each fairly closely, respecting some airflow calculations for the distance... remind me, what is happening with the rest of the under floor spaces that these two can't be squeezed in somewhere?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[sledhead]

the 9 k heat pump I just put in the house in the spring is a inverter unit and is a lot smaller in size then the one I installed in the coach years ago . I think it would fit in the spare tire spot up front . maybe even 2 units ? savire 115 volt unit
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/905b07_80b4cbd6ed1d4c7ba956ceadd972a3b6.pdf

some pics of the unit in the bay behind the old bus a/c mesh door . I put a washable air filter to try and keep the road crap out of the unit 

[Jcparmley]

Can the condenser be laid on it's side?  I can't imagine that the spare tire is large enough for a outdoor unit to stand up.  Here is a pic of the MCI spare tire bay behind the front bumper. 

the 9 k heat pump I just put in the house in the spring is a inverter unit and is a lot smaller in size then the one I installed in the coach years ago . I think it would fit in the spare tire spot up front . maybe even 2 units ? savire 115 volt unit
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/905b07_80b4cbd6ed1d4c7ba956ceadd972a3b6.pdf

some pics of the unit in the bay behind the old bus a/c mesh door . I put a washable air filter to try and keep the road crap out of the unit

[buswarrior]

Check with manufacturer, don't mention bus, just ask if it can be laid down on its side, full stop.

"The space that would be handy to put it would be god if it can go on its side. "

Period.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Jim Blackwood]

If you did put them inside the rear cap could you put air scoops on the top to duct cool higher pressure air into the inlets?

Jim