Low oil light on the 6v92 again, this time in Rapids City

neoneddy · July 13, 2018, 02:25:12 PM

Actually I'm in the parking lot of Wall drug while the family is inside, I'm supposed to be napping.

So last night about 4 am , looking for a spot in a truck stop and as I did my lap and figured I'd move along with my toW Dolly and all (was backin only) the light came on and it shutdown. Pressure read good up front and in the back. I added some oil anyway, I think it didn't need it because today the toad is pretty oily.

Now today the light has come on 3 or 4 times, however each time it refires on its own within a few seconds.

It's also pretty hot today, I've got to keep it under 60-63 to keep the temp under control. I'd say I'm running 200-205 once it settles in. In the evening it is a solid 190. I bring this last bit up because it seems like it's only happening in low load / Ron situations.

I'm running 40 weight delo, dip stick shows a tick above F, all the gauges read good pressure. 20-30 psi idle, 50 high rpm.

buswarrior · July 13, 2018, 02:52:05 PM

Bad wiring/connection for the oil pressure switch that triggers the auto-shut down...

Hang on, why have you decided it was "oil pressure"? If it shuts down, the whole dash goes Christmas tree lights...

The overtemp sensor/wiring/connections can be the culprit too, and get misdiagnosed...

This is another reason why I do not like the old auto-shut-down...

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

neoneddy · July 13, 2018, 03:03:24 PM

Well thats the only light thay comes on. Hot engine is right right nect to it, and i did wonder if maybe i was touching the hot engine temp threshold.

buswarrior · July 13, 2018, 03:14:22 PM

That's the devil, if it gives a little kiss of connection, then drops out again, you get shutdown, no hot engine light, but an oil presure light, because the engine has stopped, and the oil system gets torn apart for no reason...

You have to confirm functionality of both parts of the shutdown, before you decide what actually triggered it...

I would put fresh wires to the sensors from the wiring block, round trip to ground, and test the sensors, if the auto-shut down is to be retained.

If it were my coach of this vintage, the auto shut down would already be permanently disabled, the oil and temp circuits freshened up and bulb checks observed on every start-up. I decide where the coach is going to stop, not some analog circuitry that is well proven to be failure prone.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Iceni John · July 13, 2018, 03:53:27 PM

Do you also have a Low Coolant Level shutdown, and if so is your coolant level just low enough to be sloshing against the sensor?

John

chessie4905 · July 13, 2018, 04:19:31 PM

200 to 205? I wonder how accurate your temp gage is. After it settles in? Does it go a little higher than 205? Do you have misters?

luvrbus · July 13, 2018, 06:34:23 PM

I would check for the correct or bad sender, Detroit used a 3 lb sending unit on the light and shut down,have you tried disconnecting the sender for a short while ?

neoneddy · July 13, 2018, 08:46:25 PM

Ok, update. On the last few miles to the KOA near Mount Rushmore she overheated properly, it shutdown. We were also pulling out town and country mini van, I think that's what did it because I was going easy on the throttle down to 25mpg or so. Indicated temp was in that same range as before.

So that's what it was. , Although that does not explain it during the night while just tooling around . I mean it was raining that night.

Point is, it was hot, I read it with my IR gun, the sensor area with 209 or so.

So? Did I toast my engine?

After the incident and me nearly loosing my mind, we let it cool, disconnected the today, opened the doors and it seemed to operate normally. Accelerated up the hills and maintained good temp.

chessie4905 · July 14, 2018, 04:18:44 AM

Time will tell. Sometimes it takes a few hundred miles to show the damage. Hopefully, you got lucky. Observe how the exhaust looks at the first start every morning. Note any change in color of the exhaust.I'd consider adding a watter wetter to coolant.

Bill Gerrie · July 14, 2018, 05:05:42 AM

I hope you check the oil level and coolant level every morning before any trip. These 2 stroke engines do not like high temps or low pressures. If you are running hot and the coolant is full check the condition of the rad. Are the fins solid? They rot away in an old rad. Once gone no cooling. High temps will ruin an engine very fast.

DoubleEagle · July 14, 2018, 08:49:13 AM

If you are having troubles with cooling, pick where you go around the Black Hills, there are some serious grades there. The entrance to the Crazy Horse Monument is a challenge, for instance.

neoneddy · July 14, 2018, 02:03:04 PM

What are some symptoms I should be looking for? Other than low power.

I fired it up this morning, it was 80 or so ambient, just a quick puff of white (like usual) and purred normally.

I'm going to double check my coolant and scrub out the rads before we leave with a plan replace asap. What is the place to get them these days?

Lastly I've considered trying to get a mister going, but I don't know feasible that is at the campground.

Really last item, we went into town today in the van, I noticed the signs saying "warning 10% grade" and the one we overheated on was a 3 mile 6% grade. Pulling a toad up that was just a bad idea I think.

eagle19952 · July 14, 2018, 02:06:07 PM

Quote from: neoneddy on July 14, 2018, 02:03:04 PM

Really last item, we went into town today in the van, I noticed the signs saying "warning 10% grade" and the one we overheated on was a 3 mile 6% grade. Pulling a toad up that was just a bad idea I think.

got a toad driver ?
I think you need one.

chessie4905 · July 14, 2018, 02:34:20 PM

Besides unhooking toad, consider leaving early or late when temps lower. Run heater on high with valves open on serious grades.

neoneddy · July 14, 2018, 02:48:51 PM

Wife will drive the toad out to I90 , planning to leave around sunset and drive all-night.