Mister system

[Bill Gerrie]

I tried the scoops years ago and they do not work.

[buswarrior]

As I typed, those small fibreglass scoops, popularly mounted on MC 7/8/9, we're found by Mr Hobe's engineer friend, to roll the air OUT of the radiator cavity.

Waste of time, take them off, they look silly.

Now, if you want to build a bigger set, similar to Fred Hobe's... then you are on the right airflow managing path.

The air flow has to be both captured and retained in the cavity.

What we might think "makes sense" usually doesn't, when it comes to airflow around a bus.

There can be completely opposite effects between city speeds, rural highway, and the 80 mph superslab.

Adding a crosswind can really change the available air to capture.

It would be quite a surprise to add doo-dads to the rads, and then overheat because the wind is blowing in the wrong direction...

Unfortunately, the engineers grew tired of arguing with numb skulls, and don't post much anymore.

We used to be treated. Mr Sheaves was on loan to Isuzi from GM and jumped on the chat during his lunch in Japan, evening here... oh I wish I had written some of that stuff down...

I digress...

I don't recall if there are any pics on Fred Hobe's site, purposeful or in the background, that show his scoops? Maybe the air intake modification shots?

Unless a busnut has done a serious hotrod engine upgrade, that has broached the original cooling design, return what you have to factory condition and worry about other stuff?

Fred's first question: how are the cones in your squirrel cages?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[chessie4905]

Forget the scoops. When you need them the most, on a hardclimb at 35 mph, the  air flow required would require deep scoops. At high speed climbing moderate grades, the large scoops would create additional drag on the coach. For the best benefit for the cost, misters is the best deal and only needed when necessary. The water source depends on room and coach layout and main water tank size. I've heard of guys spending extra money on thicker radiators with special tubes, but wonder if they actually helped much.
I wonder I plumbing heater lines through a separate rdiator with an electric cooling fan would be worth pursuing. A couple bypass valves could be incorporated for cool weather.

[buswarrior]

Overheating? Turn on the stock coach heaters.

Everything that sheds heat helps.

There have been busnuts that were going to re-work the stock HVAC space under the coach and turn it into a radiator use, ducted in and out the bottom...

Any of them still on here? Speak up!!

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[luvrbus]

The right fan and radiator for the amount of heat rejection required is all that is needed,those engine will run warm @1500 to 1700 rpm and that is a problem for buses owners. The water pump gpm is there all it needs is capacity and air flow     

[edvanland]

I have a MCI 7 which has a 8V92 and Allison 740 automatic. I have a hard time keeping it under 190. I have completely resealed the radiators, recored them with upgraded radiators, had a separate trans cooler put in with it's own independent cooling system, misting system using 1/4 inch cooper tubing with 40th inch holes drilled ever 2 inches looping back and forth across the radiators, air scoops, do they help, I don't know. After years of frustration and much thought I installed a 3/4 foot radiator out of a cab over tractor on the back. Took off the rear doors and installed the radiator. It has 6 12 inch cooling fans which are wired independent of each other so if one fails they all don't. Have the misters looping back and forth across it also. To make it look presentable I put a Freightliner grill on it and bright diamond plate on each side to dress it up. I also put LED lights on it to make it look better. I still have to be very careful or it will go to 200. So I have tried everything people here have suggested and still have problems. I don't care how fast I get to the top of the hill as long as I get there and the bus is not hot.
ED

[eagle19952]

I have a MCI 7 which has a 8V92 and Allison 740 automatic. I have a hard time keeping it under 190. I have completely resealed the radiators, recored them with upgraded radiators, had a separate trans cooler put in with it's own independent cooling system, misting system using 1/4 inch cooper tubing with 40th inch holes drilled ever 2 inches looping back and forth across the radiators, air scoops, do they help, I don't know. After years of frustration and much thought I installed a 3/4 foot radiator out of a cab over tractor on the back. Took off the rear doors and installed the radiator. It has 6 12 inch cooling fans which are wired independent of each other so if one fails they all don't. Have the misters looping back and forth across it also. To make it look presentable I put a Freightliner grill on it and bright diamond plate on each side to dress it up. I also put LED lights on it to make it look better. I still have to be very careful or it will go to 200. So I have tried everything people here have suggested and still have problems. I don't care how fast I get to the top of the hill as long as I get there and the bus is not hot.
ED

198 won't hurt anything.
neither will 200.

[luvrbus]

The 16v92 gen sets 600kw I worked on last spring all had 190 degree thermostats they all ran around 198 degrees when the T stats were fully open which scares the hell out of most bus people,mainly because of the internet   

[Dave5Cs]

My little 6V71 runs between 185 and 200 most of the time depending on the pull. Up the hump to Pahrump at 17 MPH ran 210 and was fine over the top and a few minutes later down to 195. the long pull through the mountains of New Mexico a very long and steep pull ran in August 200 at 20 MPH 1st gear all the way no problem.
2 years ago ran the heavy duty cleaner through the system and was pretty clean. Checked rads for clean and they were and in good shape. Blow the Blue stuff through the fins and rinse. Maintanance seems to help on these beasts, LOL.
  Heavy duty antifreeze 60 water-40 coolant as well and I use Delo 100 too...

[chessie4905]

Evanland...have you checked the accuracy of your temp gage/s. Also, you could reduce injector size.

[Iceni John]

After years of frustration and much thought I installed a 3/4 foot radiator out of a cab over tractor on the back. Took off the rear doors and installed the radiator. It has 6 12 inch cooling fans which are wired independent of each other so if one fails they all don't. ED

Ed, what is the direction of airflow?   Do the fans blow hot air out of the engine room, or do they pull in cool air from outside?

John

[luvrbus]

My little 6V71 runs between 185 and 200 most of the time depending on the pull. Up the hump to Pahrump at 17 MPH ran 210 and was fine over the top and a few minutes later down to 195. the long pull through the mountains of New Mexico a very long and steep pull ran in August 200 at 20 MPH 1st gear all the way no problem.
2 years ago ran the heavy duty cleaner through the system and was pretty clean. Checked rads for clean and they were and in good shape. Blow the Blue stuff through the fins and rinse. Maintanance seems to help on these beasts, LOL.
  Heavy duty antifreeze 60 water-40 coolant as well and I use Delo 100 too...

Watch it running one at 200F you need 50w not 40W lol

[Dave5Cs]

It runs good at 200, So prior to running up a hill I have to do an oil change to 50 then on the other side do it back again, LOL

[Van]

Maybe Dry ice on the radianator would help? 

[Dave5Cs]

Vanman you are a Genius. I will PM you and let you know some other places,LOL