How do I remove break shoe pins
 

How do I remove break shoe pins

Started by solardude, May 16, 2018, 06:02:40 PM

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solardude

Well - I was all excited to get the bus all put back together tonight after replacing the radius rod bushings, BUT as I was crawling on my back I noticed a lower break pad was cracked and broke on a corner. A short investigation reveled the break shoe was worn out and not supporting the pad properly causing it to break apart.

I picked up a shoe today and was all ready to quickly replace it, BUT I cannot get the darn pivot pins out. I hammered away on them for a solid two hours tonight, and not so much as a .001 movement.

Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone had this same problem; if so, how did you resolve?


SolarDude
Jeff
1993 MCI 102C3
Cummins L10/Allison ATEC
Twin Cities, MN.

gg04

Rent or buy a ball joint replacement tool (one that is also rated to do brake pins) rdw
If you personally have not done it  , or saw it done.. do not say it cannot be done...1960 4104 6L71ta ddec Falfurrias Tx

solardude

Oh - I hadn't thought about the pins being pressed in.. From the design of the retainer, I thought the pins "floated" in the bore?

If i need to use a pin press I will have to remove the hub - that sucks!

Hopefully someone that has done the job already will have some insight.

SD
Jeff
1993 MCI 102C3
Cummins L10/Allison ATEC
Twin Cities, MN.

luvrbus

Takes a brake pin press most of the time looks like a heavy duty C clamp
Life is short drink the good wine first

Geoff

Spitting peas takes a big hammer.
Geoff
'82 RTS AZ

Geoff

I think you didn't unsrew the pin far enough and you left some threads connected, so all your hammer pounding just mushroomed the pin.  Time to drill.
Geoff
'82 RTS AZ

solardude

Quote from: luvrbus on May 16, 2018, 06:36:29 PM
Takes a brake pin press most of the time looks like a heavy duty C clamp

luvrbus do you have a recommended tool? I looked briefly, the ones I see are made for semi breaks, I don't want to buy the wrong tool.

Geoff - I can't say yet for sure, but I don't think the pins have threads, the pins were secured with a plate in a slot on the pins.

I don't usually just go hammering on things, I used a copper drift and a brass one.. so no mushrooming yet.. It may come to that though.
I too thought if worse comes to worse, I could drill it out.

I am surprised MCI made these pins so that the hub has to come off to pull them out... PITA.

SD
Jeff
1993 MCI 102C3
Cummins L10/Allison ATEC
Twin Cities, MN.

dtcerrato

"the pins were secured with a plate in a slot on the pins."
The pins in our 4104 look exactly the same but they're NOT pressed fit, they were just rusted in. on the opposite end of the pins you have pictured are "keepers" that are held in place by a small bolt - as in your quote above. I don't think the pins are pressed if you're saying there is a keeper plate in a slot in the pin. They are just rusted (cold welded) in place. I got mine loosened but it took time & perseverance. Rust buster (PB Blaster) for days, heat (just burnzomatic) not enough to harm the metal. An impact hammer and a large wrench on the flats on each side of the grease zurk threaded hole (as in your photos) It seemed like a slow moving nightmare but after days I started getting a fraction of movement & it increased ever so slowly until they finally surrendered to my stubbornness. In fact I reused the pins and did a 15,000 mile trip since then & recheck them periodically to make certain they are still free to move. Good luck, been there done that... I've attached my set up - you can see the "keeper" plate that secures the pair of pins on the left side. Keep us posted on your progress.
Dan & Sandy
North Central Florida
PD4104-129 since 1979
Toads: 2009 Jeep GC Limited 4X4 5.7L Hemi
             2008 GMC Envoy SLT 4x4 4.2L IL Vortec

dtcerrato

Forgot to mention there are no threads on the pins and they DO float in all the bores & holes thus the reason for the bolted "keeper"
Dan & Sandy
North Central Florida
PD4104-129 since 1979
Toads: 2009 Jeep GC Limited 4X4 5.7L Hemi
             2008 GMC Envoy SLT 4x4 4.2L IL Vortec

luvrbus

My MCI has the same keepers but are pressed in just like a truck cost me $249.00 for the press to remove them a real pita ,I don't know if the C floats or are pressed in MCI did some weird S***
Life is short drink the good wine first

brmax

Sometimes we have to get the shorty handled 4lb sledge. This along with the 1" x 18" long hard bronze drift.


Good luck

Floyd
1992 MC9
6V92
Allison

Dave5Cs

Is it just me or do others think that when working on a broken Brake pad or replacing one that you should remove the hub and check all other parts. I pulled one once and it was missing the return spring and a pad bolt. Just saying.
Getting in a hurry can come to a sudden stop!
"Perfect Frequency"1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71,644MT Allison.
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 60th Anniversary edition.
1998 Jeep TJ ,(Gone)
Somewhere in the USA fulltiming.

TomC

Yes if you haven't done it in a while, taking the entire wheel assembly down to the hub, taking the bearings off and inspecting, and replacing the oil seals is always good. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

luvrbus

I don't ever reuse the old hardware you can buy the kits that comes with new springs,pins and keepers 
Life is short drink the good wine first

Geoff

Trucks use roller pins with the shoes having a half circle to mount to the anchor pins. I admit I never have replaced pins like buses use.  However, I had a similar situation with some rusted pins that held hydraulic Rams on a big fork lift.  It took me a couple of hours apiece to pound each one out.  I think I finally got my cutting torch out and burned them out through the center after drilling a hole in the middle.  After burning most of the pin out, I was able to pound the rest out.
Geoff
'82 RTS AZ